Kain
3/4 ton status
and thanks for the reply's it means alot
CK5
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Charging issue. at 16.8 volts
- Thread starter Kain
- Start date
AH, posted without reading, as usual. Sorry bout that. Yeah, its always a good idea to eliminate splices. That link explains why links are probably better than fuses in that usage, and tells what sizes do what.
Kain
3/4 ton status
can i use 12 gauge wire or does it need to be the 8 gauge the previous owner put on it?
Depends on what you are replacing. Other than the fuse links, heavier is not harmful, only more expensive. BTW, not sure if the link I posted is still in business, but most parts houses sell links, for instance: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/fusible-links/15642
You just have to know what size to get, which is where the other link comes in.
Sometimes going bigger with wire makes it difficult to hook things up, its hard to find a small ring terminal that will accommodate 8 gauge wire, and the large ring terminals might not fit on the connectors.
You just have to know what size to get, which is where the other link comes in.
Sometimes going bigger with wire makes it difficult to hook things up, its hard to find a small ring terminal that will accommodate 8 gauge wire, and the large ring terminals might not fit on the connectors.
Kain
3/4 ton status
im, going to replace those two wires and since you can still get fusible link wire those two. but i dont like the 8 guage its a pain to work with. my question is will 12 or 10 gauge do the job
Kain
3/4 ton status
amazon has fusible link wire too
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124PT-...8&qid=1466393850&sr=8-1&keywords=fusible+link
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124PT-...8&qid=1466393850&sr=8-1&keywords=fusible+link
Well, I hate to be obscure, but I'm just not sure. If the truck's electrical load is reasonably stock, then the stock size wire, or one size bigger just for fun, should be fine.
Not really sure what size is stock, but someone here should know.
If the PO has installed a huge inverter or a 2kw amp sound system, or you are thinking about doing so, then you might want to upgrade to 8. Otherwise, its just a waste of time and more trouble than its worth.
And in that case, you would probably want to add a new circuit anyway.
Not really sure what size is stock, but someone here should know.
If the PO has installed a huge inverter or a 2kw amp sound system, or you are thinking about doing so, then you might want to upgrade to 8. Otherwise, its just a waste of time and more trouble than its worth.
And in that case, you would probably want to add a new circuit anyway.
Kain
3/4 ton status
thanks for your replys man it means alot
Kain
3/4 ton status
so does anyone else know what size the stock starter wires are?
Kain
3/4 ton status
That supposed to clip to the solenoid?
I don't think I'd try to second guess or improve that setup unless you tend to remove your starter often. Find proper wire gauge, replace wires and fusible links, done.
You are going to have to do some reading/scanning, but the links in my signature may contain info on the fusible links. I can't remember where that stuff is, I think the generic wire/splicing info is in the service manuals, not the wiring diagrams.
id head to a junkyard and find a truck where those 2 wires are good and see how much they want...
Larger than 10 ga wires are harder to deal with as far as connections...
What I have done in the past to join 2 lengths of 8 gauge or thicker wires in a straight splice,is to use 1/4" copper tubing and crimp & solder the wires to it,then wrap it good with tape or use heat shrink tubing,I like using the brush on liqiud electrical tape first before using the other insulation methods..
There connectors pictured below make connecting thick wires to the starter solenoid or alternator,junction blocks,much easier..you can solder the wires to them too as well as using the set screw,and use heat shrink or the liquid tape + tape to insulate them..
What I have done in the past to join 2 lengths of 8 gauge or thicker wires in a straight splice,is to use 1/4" copper tubing and crimp & solder the wires to it,then wrap it good with tape or use heat shrink tubing,I like using the brush on liqiud electrical tape first before using the other insulation methods..
There connectors pictured below make connecting thick wires to the starter solenoid or alternator,junction blocks,much easier..you can solder the wires to them too as well as using the set screw,and use heat shrink or the liquid tape + tape to insulate them..
Kain
3/4 ton status
the junk yard here is no go for even truck parts of that year thats why im going to replace them.
looked the last time i had an issue
It's a common dilema for square bodies to have fried wires to the starter solenoid,the one or two red ones that send power from the alternator to the junction block on the firewall,that have the fusible link(s)...
It would be a fair bet most you'd see in a salvage yard that still had the wires intact will have the insulation all brittle where they ran through the metal conduit near the bellhousing ,that was supposed to protect them from exhaust heat,but ended up being a cooker for them instead eventually..
I took the wire(s) off my starter solenoid & extended them,and connect them directly to the positive battery cable on all the GM trucks I have had after gettting frustrated with old half roached original wiring issues..GM did it that way till '72 and had no troubles,I don't think their "conduit" was a good idea..
It would be a fair bet most you'd see in a salvage yard that still had the wires intact will have the insulation all brittle where they ran through the metal conduit near the bellhousing ,that was supposed to protect them from exhaust heat,but ended up being a cooker for them instead eventually..
I took the wire(s) off my starter solenoid & extended them,and connect them directly to the positive battery cable on all the GM trucks I have had after gettting frustrated with old half roached original wiring issues..GM did it that way till '72 and had no troubles,I don't think their "conduit" was a good idea..
wonder how many still have the conduit.. i know I dont
Kain
3/4 ton status
it was at the starter in two of the three conections
evolve991
Resident Problem Child
Wish I'd read this before the weekend. I just had an issue with a fused (30a) wire on that junction that kept blowing and killing the truck instantly in the middle of the road. I replaced the starter wire and found some bare wires here and there but the yellow fused wire ties in to a red/dark blue double that runs down the firewall under the steering column and disappears into conduit running towards the rear...??....diagrams show it being connected to Neutral Safety Switch but I can't find where it enters the truck anywhere. By the way real nice methods, and that piece looks like a good solution to heavy ring connectors
A guy I know likes using bullet cases off .22's or larger as "end splice caps" on thick wires,he crimps them on and solders them with a propane torch (mini ones work well for this)...
I dont have bullets hanging around or I'd probably copy his idea,the copper tubing works well enough for me--..he puts liquid electrical tape or rtv over the "cap" ,then either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape over that...
I don't know what year your truck is Evolve,but if its a square body,the neutral safety should be on the steering colum and have 4 wires on it--two purple ones that are the "crank" wire going to the starter solenoid from the ignition to let it crank only in park or neutral,the other two go to the back up lamps (reverse lights)..
BTW,when I say "conduit" I mean metal tubing,not the crinkly plastic stuff GM used a lot of...I dont recall seeing a metal conduit on the drivers side,but then again GM had many options as far as wiring and accessories...I do have a few diagrams for 1969-1985 or so trucks,many far too tiny and "fuzzy" for me to read any more unfortunately...
I dont have bullets hanging around or I'd probably copy his idea,the copper tubing works well enough for me--..he puts liquid electrical tape or rtv over the "cap" ,then either heat shrink tubing or electrical tape over that...
I don't know what year your truck is Evolve,but if its a square body,the neutral safety should be on the steering colum and have 4 wires on it--two purple ones that are the "crank" wire going to the starter solenoid from the ignition to let it crank only in park or neutral,the other two go to the back up lamps (reverse lights)..
BTW,when I say "conduit" I mean metal tubing,not the crinkly plastic stuff GM used a lot of...I dont recall seeing a metal conduit on the drivers side,but then again GM had many options as far as wiring and accessories...I do have a few diagrams for 1969-1985 or so trucks,many far too tiny and "fuzzy" for me to read any more unfortunately...
