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cheap long slip drive shaft

clstolten

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So I pulled a drive shaft from a K20 longbed at the junkyard today. It was the type with the carrier bearing. There is 7.5" of splines on this thing. Is this the best I can do without going custom$$$$$$$. It was only $17 and after I remove about 1" of the tube, it will be the perfect length.

P1010282.jpg
 
I have never shortened a drive shaft but it was easy enough to remove the one end. I don't have a band saw, just a chop saw. The end for the tube is a tight fit and has about an inch insertion depth??? This shaft is for the front and won't see high speeds so I'm not too concerned.
 
same setup I was running rear. Just pop off the fixed section of shaft and the carrier bearing and shorten to fit. I am gonna see if a dodge cummins 1350 CV will fit into the tube for a long slip junkyard CV.
 
cut the shaft...

I've used a large pipe cutter to cut driveshafts down in length--maybe butcher,but it worked fine for me!..I've also just used a bench grinder to "erase" the weld where its welded to the yoke,and then you can just tap off the yoke with a hammer,if your just swapping a yoke..

I bring my driveshafts to a machine shop though,if its on a street driven truck --I had a home brewed rear shaft in my 72 Chevelle wagon that sat on a 69 Suburban 4x4 chassis,and it vibrated quite a bit at certain speeds..if its just a plow truck front shaft or something,then I'll attempt to do it myself..:crazy:
 
Thats exactly what I have in the front of my 71 blazer with 52's
Works great.
 
icehouse said:
So I pulled a drive shaft from a K20 longbed at the junkyard today. It was the type with the carrier bearing. There is 7.5" of splines on this thing. Is this the best I can do without going custom$$$$$$$. It was only $17 and after I remove about 1" of the tube, it will be the perfect length.

Wouldn't that have been a C20? A 4x4 wouldn't have a two-piece shaft, would it?
 
Well you can find them in 4x4 crew cabs at least. I haven't seen a K20 with one though.
 
My brother just bought a K-30 dually regcab, longbed, rolling chassis and it has a two piece rear shaft
 
It had a dana 44 8 lug up front. It was a "camper special".
 
rhino105amx said:
My 78 Burb with a 4 speed/205 had a two piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing.

That's longer than a k-20 pickup, isn't it?
 
Pardon the newbee question but, what section of the driveshaft is pictured and what ujoints would fit? I plan on a 52" spring swap and this may be the answer to the driveshaft length problem.
 
RedBrute,
The section in the picture is from the t case to the carrier bearing. The yoke with the internal splines was attached to the second shaft going to the rear axle. The shaft has 1350 sized yokes. I used a 1350 to 1310 yoke to go to the front axle(d44), and a 1350 to S44 to go to the custom flange I made from the stock CV. No more CV for me, but the modified flange allows for high operating angles. The combo joints are a little pricey. About $30 each at Napa.
 
OrangeCrushK10 said:
Nice.

I need a band saw so I can cut tubes level and fab my own driveshafts.

I have found that a pipe cutter is the best tool for cutting drivelines straight and true. I usually clean off all the dirt and grime and then have at it. The cut is perpendicular to the centerline of the shaft and is already a little beveled for excellent welding.
 
Thanks for the info. I thought combo joints would be required...the kicker is I went to the J/Y yesterday. Had I known this I'd be hackin' a shaft right now!
 
I just bought mine new from a local heavy truck sriveshaft shop. I think it was 60 and he turned it down to fit my current shaft.
 
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