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Check my work please?

S

Stephen Carter

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Apr 10, 2016
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Tulsa, OK
So, this weekend was fantastic :angry1:

As some may have seen I've been hunting for a complete driveshaft for my 87K5. Well I finally found one local, complete with good ujoints! Install it, only to discover everything binds up. 3.08s in the rear and 3.42s in the front. FML.

Anyways when we had my truck up on stands checking ratios, realized a front wheel bearing was toasted.
replaced both bearings (big one and small one). My question pertains to what should have been inside of the hub. In order of appearance (inside to out)
Spindle seal, Big bearing, little bearing, first spindle nut, spindle lock washer, second spindle nut, locking hub internals, snap rings ( one fine for the internals, one large for the internals, and one flat one on the axle shaft), then finally the locking mechanism 'switch'.

First hub nut was torqued to 30ft# (could still spin the brake disc easily by hand), second was torqued to 150ft#. I used the specs I could find with a search.


Just want to make sure that the wheel aint gonna fall off on the way to work in the morning! :burnout:
 
The way I tighten wheel bearings is to spin the wheel while tightening the inner nut to 50 ft lbs or so to ensure the races seated fully,then back off till you detect a bit of end play,then tighten just enough to eliminate all end play by hand (not to any torque spec)--then install the "holy washer" and outer nut and tighten it "good"...150 ft/lbs sounds a bit too much in my opinion,but if it works for you--..

I had a '71 K5 CST edition I bought for only 300 bucks,I soon learned why it was such a good deal--someone put a 3:08 rear end in it and the front still had the original 3:73 ratio axle...it drove great in 2wd,but if you locked the hubs and put it in 4wd,the truck would bind up badly until one front hub released with a loud scary "BANG"..

I eventually located a 3:73 rear axle but never did get around to installing it,I drove it in summer on the street mostly..I was able to put larger tires up front than on the rear to "match" the ratio's close enough to let you use 4wd on dirt or snow,but it handled very squirrely...
 
You can check your work by after a short drive place your hand on the hub. If it's too hot to touch something is wrong. Whether too loose or too tight. I'd prefer tighter initial torque on new bearings but I do it by feel alot of the time.

Also good grease makes bearings happy.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the replies.
I do have a question, as I re-watched the how to video that I used.
He shows the Spindle nuts, with the inner I believe, having a nipple to lock into the lock washer. Neither side had said nipple.
How important is that part? And if its uber important, where in the hell do I find some? I've check autozone, napa, and oreilly's (even lmc). and none show the lock nuts with the nipple.
 
That is crucial. 4 wheel parts should have them next day.
 
No. There is a 4wp in tulsa. Call them there and someone should be able to get that for you. It's genuine dana spicer. You only need the inner nut for each side.
 
obijuank5 said:
No. There is a 4wp in tulsa. Call them there and someone should be able to get that for you. It's genuine dana spicer. You only need the inner nut for each side.
Click to expand...

Got the parts. They only had the kits available. So 36$ later i can install more new parts saturday lol.

Thanks for the suggestion. I had completely forgotten about that place...
 
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