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Chevysmithz71 Later Thread:Trip pics

meen seating the crap outta it fo about 7 months now = been beating the crap out of it for about 7 months now :confused::confused::confused:

I think somebody moved the keys on his keyboard. :D
 
After finishing up the crossmember I stitch welded the mount to the frame.Wanted to know what you think about that?I just didn't see a point in welding thw whole thng across. Also, wrapped the fuel lines with some header wrap and then sprayed it with some silicon heat treated spray for some added protection.So, it's getting there and next is the exhaust then to the floor.

cross.jpg

crossmem.jpg

blazer010.jpg

blazer 006.jpg

blazer004.jpg
 
Creative! :waytogo:

Looks like you still have a good amount of space left for the exhaust too..... not an easy task when you start clocking the t-case.


:usaflag:
 
What do you think about the stitch welding? Should I finish it off for some reason?

OOoo and do people use locktite on the adapter to tranny and tcase to adapter Bolts?
Not sure about aluminum.
 
chevysmithz71 said:
What do you think about the stitch welding? Should I finish it off for some reason?

OOoo and do people use locktite on the adapter to tranny and tcase to adapter Bolts?
Not sure about aluminum.
Click to expand...


I'd leave it stitch welded
 
Here's what became of the floor. 2 pieces to be able to get to what I need.Next the Exhaust.
4x4trip002.jpg

4x4trip009.jpg

4x4trip011.jpg
 
People that I've talked to that have put the Stak 3 speed tcase in their rig has always had front driveline angle issues. I got to thinking about it and I did some research. I found that Advance Adapters makes a NP203 to Atlas adapter. From the looks of it and from what I've seen on the Stak tcase, it looks to me that this adapter will work when trying to bolt up a 203 to a Stak. The Stak looks like it has the same style of input adapter that the Atlas has. Somebody who owns the Stak can possibly confirm or correct me on this. My theory is that doing the 203 to Stak would be WAY cheaper than doing what the TV show Xtreme 4x4 did on their Toyota pickup which is putting the NWF Black Box to the Stak. That Black Box is expensive. Here's the link for the 203 to Atlas adapter.

http://advanceadapters.com/product/2325/(P/N-50-8810)-NP203-to-Atlas-Doubler.html

Scott
 
Got the front shaft made thanks to Avery for the flawless flange. Cut some D60 shafts and fit it to the flange.Then cut up an old shaft for the slip and spline and hacked up another for thr 1350 end. Weld it all up and was eaiser then anticipated.

front driveshaft 001.jpg

front driveshaft 002.jpg

front driveshaft 003.jpg
 
Glad to see the flange worked out for ya'!

I can't wait to hit the trails and see it in action.
 
The slip parts came from my old shaft that I cut up which was made at a local shop.
I will be using 7-8 inches of slip from a total of 13inches.Thats with 56's up front.Kinda thought it would be more.
 
Did you think about going with a single exhaust? As I understand it, if it's done right (I have no idea how, but my old-school muffler guy does) you won't lose much.
 
sandawgk5 said:
About $3K without shifters and I am pretty sure they have an adapter for it to mount to a 465. Check their site for adapters.

Stak4x4.com

Dik
Click to expand...

Yup around $3k. I know it's a grip of cash, actually worth more then the K5, but I see it as a last big gift to myself before my wedding comes along.Then there is no turning back.
I think it would be a skip the trial and error, just buy the right thing the first time.Also a good foundation of parts to go Buggy if the future accomodates.
 
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