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Clifford Project - '88 Cummins CrewCab

Put the fuel pin and new gauge set in this weekend. Haven't done any other pump mods yet. No tranny cover yet either. Need to find a good shifter boot too. Put the pin in Saturday and noticed yesterday that the injection pump was leaking. Well ****, there goes another $1k. It's not leaking today, maybe because it's warmer out. Going to keep an eye on it for now. Don't have the money for it right now anyhow. It seems like this truck isn't going to let me really drive it until I rebuild the whole damn thing. :doah::popcorn:

Edit: Fuel pin makes a HUGE difference. Can't wait to do the gov spring and bump the timing.
 
Aaarrghh.....this thing is killing me. Two issues outside of the possible injection pump.

Last night on the way home, hit a bump and lost all lights. Hazards and brake lights still worked. New gauge and stereo shut off too. Got it home and had left the lights on when I got out of the truck. Everything was still not working at this point. Got back in, turned on the key, nothing works. Turn off the headlight switch and new gauge and stereo work. Turn running lights on, gauge turns back off and still no lights. Turn lights off, gauge works. Turn lights on, everything works as normal. :what: I'm thinking maybe the light switch or a harness issue. Thinking about pulling the dash this weekend.

Also got death wobble once on the way home last night at about 35mph cruising. I can feel it try to do it every once in a while but I can power past it. Everything is tight. Checked castor. With the middle of the frame under the cab at 0*, both knuckles are at 10* positive. Would bad shocks cause it? I know it's a harmonics thing and thinking maybe the wheel bouncing more than it should is getting the wobble started. I've replaced everything but the lower kingpin bearings and shocks.
 
VE pump seal kits are cheap. They often leak. Do it yourself. Check the lift pump, if someone thought they would be smart and upgrade the mechanical lift pump to a piston style pump, you may be feeding the VE too much pressure. That'll also push out the front shaft seal and start filling the crankcase with fuel. Diluting the oil and wiping the bearings. But if its still the diaphragm lift pump, you're good to go. Just some food for thought.


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It has a new lift pump on it but its a replacement diaphragm pump. I had a hint of death wobble with my truck too after I replaced everything but the stabilizer. I upgraded straight to hydro assist and it went away. If you haven't replaced the stablilzer yet I'd look there first
 
I have a seal kit for the IP already. It's just one of those things that I'm not comfortable doing until I've done it. Still not leaking so keeping an eye on it. It didn't give me any leaks until I did the fuel pin and only did it for a day so I dunno.

Aaron, did the stabilizer last round. All that is left is shocks. I really don't have the $ for hydro assist now, but putting it on the list.

I'm tempted to get a beater and tear this ****er down and start from scratch. Been browsing craigslist this morning. I hate fixing other people's stupid ****.
 
The IP's usually leak from the throttle shaft bushing. I too was nervous about doing IP work myself. But I downloaded the PDF for BD diesel Fuel pin/gov spring install(available to download at summit racing). I followed the direction closely, replaced the throttle shaft bushing, replaced gov spring with the 3200 366 spring, installed new cover gasket, and reclocked the foctory fuel pin all in an afternoon. Was not bad at all, so far with about 1500 miles all seems good.
good luck!
JLT

PS might also want to check out the DieselbombersDotCom 1st gen section, they have lots of good information there concerning the IP as well.
 
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matt96shee said:
hey, how does the divorced case feel? does it drive different than if it were married?
Click to expand...

Drives the same. I have a little vibration at lower RPM's that I think may be in the jack shaft, but essentially there is no difference.

jltait said:
The IP's usually leak from the throttle shaft bushing. I too was nervous about doing IP work myself. But I downloaded the PDF for BD diesel Fuel pin/gov spring install(available to download at summit racing). I followed the direction closely, replaced the throttle shaft bushing, replaced gov spring with the 3200 366 spring, installed new cover gasket, and reclocked the foctory fuel pin all in an afternoon. Was not bad at all, so far with about 1500 miles all seems good.
good luck!
JLT

PS might also want to check out the DieselbombersDotCom 1st gen section, they have lots of good information there concerning the IP as well.
Click to expand...

I've been lurking dieselbombers for a while now. My pump appears to be leaking between the main pump body and the manifold that all the injector lines come out of. The damn thing doesn't leak unless it sits for a day or two though. I'm going to order the tools to do it and look more into doing the pump myself. Otherwise I found a couple places with them for $600.
 
So I didn't get as much done over the T-day weekend as I wanted as I was on daddy duty for a bit of it (still getting used to working that into my schedule). I did get the tranny crossmember redone though.

When I first got the new tranny in, the mount was actually about 1/2" or so forward of the Getrag. Well what I did to get it running was bolt everything up loosely and then tighten it down to get it to work. I noticed a few days later that the motor was being pulled rearward and the tranny forward. This was taxing the motor and tranny mounts. The bolt holes in the crossmember and the frame were torched out and I didn't want to add more holes to the frame so I rebuilt the frame mounts on the crossmember and plated the bottom of the frame to cover all the old holes and drilled fresh holes. I have less vibration and less noise now.

Modification to the TH400 mount so the bolts to the tranny clear.
IMG_20111115_213637.jpg


Spacer plate to bump the tranny mount up 3/8".
IMG_20111115_213616.jpg

IMG_20111115_213606.jpg


The old holes in the crossmember.
IMG_20111126_135340.jpg


Cut out
IMG_20111126_135400.jpg


Fresh metal
IMG_20111126_135439.jpg

IMG_20111126_135453.jpg

IMG_20111126_142629.jpg

IMG_20111127_153405.jpg
 
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Update on the injection pump. It's now bleeding down if it sits for more than a few minutes. I think the single digit temps finally did it in. Once started it runs great. Think I've got everything now to at least take the pump off. Going to watch the rebuild video this weekend and probably tackle it once it warms up a bit.
 
Sound like the pump head is leaking. From where you describe. Removing the pump is easy. Make sure you have a good puller. Pin the engine and pump, scribe a line from pump to gearcase for timing. Pull the lines and support bracket. Pop the gear before you undo the mount bolts. Pull pump. Do not loose the key out of the pump shaft in the geartrain.


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I got the puller from Tork Tools. I went ahead and sprung for the two wrenches too. I know you can do it without them but need as few hassles as possible in this endeavor. Pretty sure I've got getting the pump off down. More worried about going through the pump itself. That and making sure the timing on the pump stays where it should be.
 
That's what scribing the pump to case does for you, confirms original timing. Doesn't mean its correct timing, you'll just get the same as you started with. Had nothing to do with the gear. Gear is timed to the train, and keyed to the shaft. You twist the pump on the gearcase to change timing on a VE. Advance is twist the top of the pump towards the head.

If the pump needs more than just a basic seal kit. Take it to a diesel injection shop. You need some specialized tools to take it apart properly. You can hack your way through without them, but it will ruin your day for sure. And if you need hard parts at that point, its better a pump guy has it.

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The pump and case are already marked, but I know there is something about that tab on the pump that locks it out or something and that's what I'm concerned about. I need to watch the vid I got.

As far as the rebuild, at what point do I throw in the towel? The local pump guys are twice the cost of what I have found online and I don't want to have a half disassembled pump to turn in as a core. I'm sure my questions will be answered in the video and book I got but what hard parts should I be watching out for?
 
Ok watch what you've got there, then reassess. Just keep in mind, diesel fuel injection pumps are far far beyond a gasoline carburator.

Id suggest if you're going to reseal it and do the pin and gsk. But if you don't have experience don't try to overhaul your injection pump. If you need a new plunger and barrel or rollers and cam plate, often just the cost of that hardpart is more than a reman pump is from somewhere.



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Here is a reseal write up over at the Dieselbombers web site, I have not done one personally. I have replaced a throttle shaft bushing and put in a GSK(quite simple really), so I am not sure as to the level of difficulty of replacing the seal causing your troubles. Reading through it should help your decide if it is within you means.

http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-r...21-ve-pump-does-not-like-76-degree-temps.html

JLT
 
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