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Clocking Ring Install-208

jk3078

1/2 ton status
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Nov 12, 2005
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Location
Moyie Springs Id.
Well I got it in. Rather easy install thats good for 5'' of clearence on the t-case and 4'' on the new x-member. could have gone more as the ring hade one more up position but I didnt want to fubar my front driveline angle when I put the 4'' tc ez-rides in.The x-member I used is a modified stock piece from an older chev(late 70s?) wich is much stronger and will be very easy to fit with a costom skid plate later. Bolth drivelines where fine for now but I think a high angle piece for the front+1 more click onthe t-case+a flat x-member/ skid plate would be sweet!The brace from the bellhousing to the t-case had to be lenghend and bent in 2 spots for the new angle. Everything else was fine and fit very nicelly. I picked the ring up from Shawn4x4@greatlakesoffroad and would recomend it to anyone with a 208 or 241 t-case as this a great solution for the shi*ty double drop low hanging stock x-member. :mad: Well I'm outa here,got to go finish preping the trucks for the Snow Bog up at Bruces place. We got four more inches of snow last night and its still snowing like crazy,if it keeps this up we could have 8-10'' today.
 
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You wouldn,t happen to have any pics of the front driveshaft angle would you? I am wanting to do this as well but am concerned about the front driveshaft angle.
 
Yeah any pics would be appreciated as I too plan to do this sometime in the next year.
 
How much was this ring?and could I use one to clock the case doun a notch?My angle is to much on the front.Thanks for the help.

PS I dont mean to hi jack threads here.
 
fordtruggy said:
How much was this ring?and could I use one to clock the case doun a notch?My angle is to much on the front.Thanks for the help.

PS I dont mean to hi jack threads here.
Shawn charges $67 via PayPal. Me too on pics, if its not a prob. I've got mine too, engine swap first & now its raining all weekend psssffpt.
 
I must be a retard or somthing because I cant seem to get the pictures from the computer to this site :confused: . Any way I am not currently runing any lift(stocksprings)so my pics may not be helpful. All I can say at this point is that I wheeled the piss out of it, with tires of the ground in the rocks many times today and no binding in the drive shaft at all. The factory degree shims(3degree?) are still in the front axle pointing the pinion down, but if they where reversed a 4'' lift would be close and mabey not do able. If some one will piont me in the right direction on posting pics and I'll try to help yall out.
 
If there in your MY PICTURES folder or somethin than you need to upload them to the internet before you can coppy and past to a site.
For me I setup a free Putfile.com account then I went to the pic and right click on properties and clicked (open in internet explorer) then the pic would open in a internet page then coppy the adderss bar at the top and past it to your putfile dounload and when that is done you can coppy the pic and paste it on here.Hope this helps there may be an easier way to do this but this is the only way I could figureout how to do it myself..

Good luck.
Will
 
Thanks fordtruggy, I'll snap some pics tommorw when I clean the garage. As far as your question useing the pass. drop ring on a drivers drop case might work to lower it, dono. Email Shawn4x4@greatlakesoffroad. He all ways replied same day for me.
 
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I load the pics directly from the camera. Saw another trick download today; guy w a '63 Nova. IPod/cable/amp/two speakers in the back shelf. No radio but so what. No wires all over, no cutting, nothing visible to steal. Sometimes the best answer is goofy simple.:haha:
The next questions will be, exhaust; how do you plan to get it up above the bottom plane of the frame rails?
 
From the factory cross over back I made my own 3'' single system and tucked it very nicely up in side the frame. made it all out of nearly brand new stainless that I got out of the scrap pile behind the local muffler shop! The cross over is still some what low but I have yet to hit it. If I do I'll go with duals run bettwen the body and frame as the 2.5'' home made body lift will clear it.

Sorry Fordtruggy the e-mail address for Shawn was wrong, I just edited it.
 
Sorry to butt in, but here's my clocked 208 and driveshaft angle with 52's. Don't try this at home without the right driveshaft :whistle:

Yes, Sean from Great Lakes was great :waytogo:

ClockedTC.jpg



DSAngle.jpg
 
jk3078 said:
From the factory cross over back I made my own 3'' single system and tucked it very nicely up in side the frame. made it all out of nearly brand new stainless that I got out of the scrap pile behind the local muffler shop! The cross over is still some what low but I have yet to hit it. If I do I'll go with duals run bettwen the body and frame as the 2.5'' home made body lift will clear it.
Yea, there's only so many places to cross-over, and everybody has trouble trying to get past the T-case on the right. I haven't been outside this AM yet, but I'm wondering if a cross-over were routed forward and down as needed, taking advantage of the lift and pipe right to left behind the sillohete (sp?) of the wheels, looking from the side. We'd have to be careful of rock between the wheels coming down on the backside of the fronts, but we could get a battleship bellyplate from Dshaft to Dshaft, bolt directly flange to flange along the frame rails. Awsome breakover.:bow: What do you think jk?
 
roadnotca said:
That's not butting-in, that's info. Thanks.

x2 Where did you get your front drive shaft and how much$

roadnotca,
Yea I think your right on keeping the pipe inside the wheel radius. I also have plans for "battle ship" belly pan with a second x-member behind the first. the pan could in theory be ran all the way up under the trany with a slot cut in it for the drive shaft. These 2 mods would make it very hard to pinch the x-over
 
I went to my local farm and tractor supply store and got a PTO shaft .It concists of a small round slider thats like 6 inches long and has a 1 inch by 1 inch square slip shaft through it and a thick tube welded onto it.Then I just welded my transfercase yoke on the end,and for the other end ist a SOLID 1 inch square steel stick with the front pinion yoke on the end and the whole square slip shaft fits into the tube and in the end the whole shaft becomes a slip yoke.So all in all my front shaft can double its length under droop if needed.
All I did was measure the length I wanted and cut of the extra from the square shaft and tube then welded my yokes to the ensd and instal.Workd bad ass and is as strong as all hell.
 
fordtruggy said:
I went to my local farm and tractor supply store and got a PTO shaft .It concists of a small round slider thats like 6 inches long and has a 1 inch by 1 inch square slip shaft through it and a thick tube welded onto it.Then I just welded my transfercase yoke on the end,and for the other end ist a SOLID 1 inch square steel stick with the front pinion yoke on the end and the whole square slip shaft fits into the tube and in the end the whole shaft becomes a slip yoke.So all in all my front shaft can double its length under droop if needed.
All I did was measure the length I wanted and cut of the extra from the square shaft and tube then welded my yokes to the ensd and instal.Workd bad ass and is as strong as all hell.
Oh now you've gone and done it, you have to bring pics.:D
 
fordtruggy said:
Works bad ass and is strong as hell.
Sounds fine for slip. But, what about extreme angles caused by clocking your t/c flat and flexy springs?
 
I run a ford and didnt clock the T case However the flex isnt anybetter than stock because I just welded stock yokes on the ends However I did grind the yokes for more clearence.And It only cost me about 150.00 at best.
 

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