Clutch not catching till almost off the floor

[jonathon]

Well I am new to driving a manual trans(this rig has been my first), so I am not sure how they are supposed to be. I've been told by the few people that have driven my Blazer that the clutch does not start to catch till it's nearly off the floor, and that it is supposed to catch just after you start letting off it..

On my truck, when I let the pedal out, it doesn't start to catch till nearly all the way up. Is my clutch going out or is this typical of the Chevy mechanical clutches? For what it is worth, none of the people that have driven it have ever owned a Chevy truck with a manual in it(I come from a Ford family! ).

The clutch doesn't slip at all and it shifts just fine, just curious more than anything(and hoping I don't have to do a clutch yet!). Thanks!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

If the clutch isn't slipping don't worry.

The clutch linkage is adjustable. Crawl under the truck and find the clutch "pushrod". Its on the driverside and looks like a small punch, its the piece that actually pushes on the clutch fork. There is a nut on the end of it. If you loosen the nut and make the pushrod longer the clutch will engage closer to the floor.

 

[jonathon]

Awesome, thanks!

By the way, is the clutch splash guard the rubber boot that I see the linkage going into?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Awesome, thanks!

By the way, is the clutch splash guard the rubber boot that I see the linkage going into?

There is a boot around the rod going through the firewall to keep stuff out of the cab.

 

[jonathon]

I'm pretty sure it's on the side that goes to the clutch.. it looks just like a boot. Been a little while since I looked at it though

 

[jonathon]

Yeah.. this thread is a couple months old to the day Finals and then family sorta took my time from me.

I got to fiddling with it and I can't get a wrench on the nut on the threaded rod, part of the linkage blocks me from doing so.

Any suggestions?

 

[RootBreaker]

Yeah.. this thread is a couple months old to the day Finals and then family sorta took my time from me.

I got to fiddling with it and I can't get a wrench on the nut on the threaded rod, part of the linkage blocks me from doing so.

Any suggestions?

convert to hydraulic????

no seriously...
I dont remember mine when it was mechanical...

I think there is 2 nuts that are lockd together? or is it ... wait.. 1 nut that locks to the Z bar right?

ya just gotta find the right angle to get the nut loose...


how about this..can you get to the spot on the rod that you put a wrench on? if so what happens when you turn it outwards? to get the nut spin the same way to come off????

I remember mine was a pita too.....
I think the boot you see is also the clutch fork boot... this is to try and keep the dirt out when you move the clutch fork in and out....

 

[Cowboy_80]

convert to hydraulic????

x2

Hydro is so much better. Anyhow, my Mazda is doing the same thing, but it's time for a new clutch. I figure 190,000 isn't all that bad for a replacement though. It's normal for the clutch to be going out when it acts like that, but, if yours is out of adjustment, cool, adjust it if you can. If there's a lot of miles on it, it may just be time for a new one. And, while you're replacing the clutch, you might as well replace the bell housing for hydraulic. Get late 80's pedals, master and slave cylinders from a jy, and drop it all in at the same time. my .02.

 

[jonathon]

When I looked at the rod it looked like I had at least 1.5" left to thread the nut out to adjust it.

If I could find the springs putting tension on it it'd be easy.. problem is I can't find them where the Chiltons manual says they are. At least feeling around I haven't felt any springs under the truck..

I plan to go Hydro when the clutch goes.. time and money doesn't allow it right now unfortunately

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Yeah.. this thread is a couple months old to the day Finals and then family sorta took my time from me.

I got to fiddling with it and I can't get a wrench on the nut on the threaded rod, part of the linkage blocks me from doing so.

Any suggestions?

Pictures maybe? Mine is very easy to get to.

There's nothing wrong with the mechanical setup, I don't understand why so many people swap it out.

 

[jonathon]

Pictures maybe? Mine is very easy to get to.

There's nothing wrong with the mechanical setup, I don't understand why so many people swap it out.

I'll snap a picture next time I'm up at the barn..

 

[Cowboy_80]

There's nothing wrong with the mechanical setup, I don't understand why so many people swap it out.

Tendency to bind on extreme flexing, making it hard to go from 1st to reverse when needed.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Tendency to bind on extreme flexing, making it hard to go from 1st to reverse when needed.

That's caused by bad rubber body mounts IME.

 

[jonathon]

Oh it is easy to get to, just hard to get a wrench on... I think with the oil filter off I can probably back it out just fine(the only good angle the oil filter is in the way).

I'm thinking I need an oil change anyways, been since August that I've done one... got the filter and the oil..

 

[RootBreaker]

When I looked at the rod it looked like I had at least 1.5" left to thread the nut out to adjust it.

If I could find the springs putting tension on it it'd be easy.. problem is I can't find them where the Chiltons manual says they are.

I dont remember a spring.. I remember a HUGE spring under the dash!!!!!
anyhow if there is supposed to be a spring under there yours maybe missing

Pictures maybe? Mine is very easy to get to.

There's nothing wrong with the mechanical setup, I don't understand why so many people swap it out.

well I did for 2 reasons... Extreme frame flex on these old chevies and worn out trans mounts made my rod slip out and the pedal went to the floor.. I was still in gear moving with pedal on the floor!!!!!

I had to get on level ground... move the trans with a big prybar.... put rod back in and then limp home to fix it....


I only changed to hydraulic due to my $100 parts truck score.. that I sold parts off of and thus it was free for an upgrade for me

That's caused by bad rubber body mounts IME.

mine are polly so not my problem....





you could always get to the clutch rod this way.....

 

[jonathon]

Ahhh you know that makes sense. The Chilton's drawing didn't really say anything, but I bet it is under the dash now that I think about it... thanks!

 

[RootBreaker]

Ahhh you know that makes sense. The Chilton's drawing didn't really say anything, but I bet it is under the dash now that I think about it... thanks!

dude.. the one under the dash is harsh... about a 600lb guy needs to lean on it!!!!!!