JasoninPrescott
Registered Member
Yeah no kidding. Everything I've got is going to bills, my kids (My son Logan is due anyday now, and my 2 yr old Lexi) and my truck.
Jason
Jason
CK5
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colbystephens' build and wheelin' thread! Post 289: my NEW truck body!!!
- Thread starter colbystephens
- Start date
Under Body
Well there are several products out there.. I am a fan of Rust Bullet. I have used it on my interior and am planning on sparying underbody with it. Look into it. You can spray it on to.. You have best opportunity to do it if you have the whole body off, should only take a quart, two at the most in order to get a two coat app. and the whole underside would be protected.. Good Luck.
By the way nice rig...
Well there are several products out there.. I am a fan of Rust Bullet. I have used it on my interior and am planning on sparying underbody with it. Look into it. You can spray it on to.. You have best opportunity to do it if you have the whole body off, should only take a quart, two at the most in order to get a two coat app. and the whole underside would be protected.. Good Luck.
By the way nice rig...
i'm not at home and so i can't upload the pics to photobucket (don't know my password!1978Blazerk5 said:what happend to the free photo's for us cheap people?
). i'll fix 'em later. 
JasoninPrescott
Registered Member
BTW Colby I forgot to add that you've got a nice truck, I'm following the build up. I'm not a fan of the exocage but if you go with it you should scrap the the half door idea, I can see that as being a huge pain if you get out of the truck alot.
Jason
Jason
jonathon
1/2 ton status
colbystephens said:you're probably right, but if i was very concerned about comfort i probably wouldn't be driving a straight axle truck!
What's uncomfortable about a straight axle
My complaints about my Blazer don't include the axles or the suspension for now.. that seems to work just fine going down the road.
nothing wrong with a straight axle truck, but it's not nearly as smooth as an IFS system... or a honda, would be.jonathon said:What's uncomfortable about a straight axle
My complaints about my Blazer don't include the axles or the suspension for now.. that seems to work just fine going down the road.
it would be a PITA because it's my DD, but i don't care too much. we'll see if i change my mind about it. for now, i'm not going to weld the doors closed. i don't really see a reason to do that - i figured it would help with the rigidity of the body, but now i'm thinking the cage/sliders will do that enough.
the other thing i gotta consider is that now if i go to a full convertable, my soft door idea won't work - so now that i'm thinking about it, and this is thinking outloud - no prior thought, i doubt it'll work to do that anyway. hmmmmmm. gotta come up with a new solution!
ok, i just got the "go-ahead" from the land lord to work on the body of this truck in the back yard, so i gotta know:
what's the best way for me to set this body up while i'm working on it? it's not going to have the frame or anything under it, and it needs to be steady for working inside and under, but i want it to be up high enough off the ground that i'm not seriously bent over while working on it. i also don't want to drop a bunch of coin on some stands. so, what have you done? anyone know how much an empty tub weighs, roughly?
what's the best way for me to set this body up while i'm working on it? it's not going to have the frame or anything under it, and it needs to be steady for working inside and under, but i want it to be up high enough off the ground that i'm not seriously bent over while working on it. i also don't want to drop a bunch of coin on some stands. so, what have you done? anyone know how much an empty tub weighs, roughly?
here you go, cheap-o's! it's the red body that i'll be getting:
it's the red body that i'll be getting:
chopped&bobbed77burb
1/2 ton status
I'm thinking an s-10 extra cab will do nice on that blazer frame with some tube work in back . Maybe just full tube it off the frame . I'm glad the blazer body will be getting a good home Colby . Nothing like getting a rust free blazer body and beating it up 
. Your a chevy butcher just like me .
. Your a chevy butcher just like me .
chopped&bobbed77burb said:Your a chevy butcher just like me
i dunno - i'm not sure i'm quite at your level yet. maybe i'll just call you "pappa butcher" from now on!
or would you rather just go by butch?! 
. Good Luckbowtiepower00
1/2 ton status
Not an Exo fan either. I don't mind some decent sized tube bumpers and sliders, and possibly a taper or two. I just like to see a fullsize that actually looks like one. Or a completely caged and built trail rig. But, not my decision, so...
For supports, I'd say 4 drums or HD sawhorses (2 front, 2 rear) with 4x4's or pieces of channel, square tube, whatever, placed between them. You could also do drums with jackstands on top so that you can get to stuff. You'll probably have to move them at least once for total coverage depending on your setup. An A-frame and chains or cherry picker at one or both ends could work too, but is not as easily attained.
If you use drums, be careful, they can be tippy. You could fill them with water, but then they'll be a PITA to move around.
For supports, I'd say 4 drums or HD sawhorses (2 front, 2 rear) with 4x4's or pieces of channel, square tube, whatever, placed between them. You could also do drums with jackstands on top so that you can get to stuff. You'll probably have to move them at least once for total coverage depending on your setup. An A-frame and chains or cherry picker at one or both ends could work too, but is not as easily attained.
If you use drums, be careful, they can be tippy. You could fill them with water, but then they'll be a PITA to move around.
hmmmm... i'll look into some heavy duty sawhorses first. thanks for the tips!!
thanks for the tips!!
bowtiepower00 said:
Be very careful if you fill 55 gallon drums with water - I'd add some anitfreeze to them - if your rig is up in the air and the water freezes, you might have a surprise when you are working underneath and the drums explode.
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
Colby -
Check out this Blazer rotisserie thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=231288
Check out this Blazer rotisserie thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=231288
i like the rotisserie idea! it won't work where i'm at tho, because i'll be working on grass... covered by a tarp... in a NW winter... yuk...
BUT - RUST FREE!!! HAHA!!!
so it's worth it.
BUT - RUST FREE!!! HAHA!!!
so it's worth it.
ok, so i've been planning out what i'm going to do to this truck body, and here's what i've come up with. the order listed below is what i think the order of projects should be. i'd appreciate input on this stuff! sorry, i know this is a book!
1. cut the rockers out 2" below the bottom door hinge. This is a touch lower than where mine are cut now, but it allows enough space to do a quick release door hinge, but still increases the body clearance significantly, as well as creates a great slider. i'll probably add a bit of tube to this to keep the trees away from my sheet metal some - but it'll only stick out a couple inches from the truck body.
2. using a piece of 1/4" plate, 5" wide by the length of the bottom of the new door seal, i'll effectively create a 5" tall lip at the base of each door opening. this will prevent water from running in, under the now chopped door (i have this problem now). i'll use some generic weather stripping and attatch it to the door, so that when the door closes, it creates a seal between the door and the lip so that drafts are minimized. i also hope it will make it legal for me to drive in washington without the doors (it's legal here in oregon to run with no doors... on anything! )
3. full convertible conversion, using only the soft top - thus, no need to replace the windshield frame. i may replace the windshield frame sometime down the road, but i'm not worried about that right now.
4. build a simple roll cage. i'm not comfortable doing any wheeling with out some sort of protection from a roof or cage, and since the roof is coming off, the cage has gotta go in. it'll basically be a base - something to start with.probably a glorified roll bar at first, but better than nothing and probably better than the stock roof. the seats and center console will be mounted to it.
a couple things i plan for the cage are to include an over head center switch panel to run all my accessories, as well as a place to mount courtesy lights. this will likely run from the windshield all the way back to the back of the rear seat. i'm considering running buckets in the back, so i might even be able to put a center console between those two seats as well.
shoulder belts are important to me, so i'll weld nuts to the roll cage and then mount the stock seatbelts just as they are mounted stock. someday i'll do 5pt harnesses, but not now.
on this cage i'll build a mount for my hi-lift, fire extinguishers and my shovel. in addition, there will be a cup holder mounted on it for each seat. i'll use 2 metal rings and some expanded metal to make these. this way they are light weight and effective. i'll likely build oh-sh!t handles into it also.
6. build some storage. i've got a ton of ideas for this.
a. i will remove the glass and the window regulator from the tailgate, then install a piano-hinge on the bottom edge of the access panel. i'll use this space to store tools. i haven't decided if i'm just going to put them into canvas bags and toss 'em in, or if i'll do something more organized. i'll weld a piece of metal over the opening on the tail gate at the top to prevent water from coming in and rusting my tools. space saver! also convenient for access on the trial... don't have to move anything or reach over a tailgate to get what i need!
b. since there will be space under the cage where the seats mount, i will use expanded metal and build locking consoles under the seats. i choose expanded metal because it'll keep the weight down. i'll have heavy duty packing plastic bags in there to keep items dry (these can be had a organizing stores (i.e. storables, the container shop, etc.). i envision putting my maps/gps/flashlight/etc down there for storage.
c. i'm going to again use expanded metal, and misc. other types of metal for the frame (L and flatstock, mainly) to build walls into the side of the truck. They'll be welded in place, but have access doors so that things can be stored there as well. i'll put velcro on the inside of the frame of the wall so that i can attatch fabric to the inside so that one can't see what's in there. this keeps the weight down and makes the fabric removable so that it can be washed after getting dusty on trails or something.
5. herc. the floor!! when i pull the carpet out, it's my hope that i can pull it out clean enough that i can turn it into a mat which can be velcro-ed down so i can retain some city comfort while i'm DD'ing it, but can remove it for wheeling. the herc will go all the way up the insides of the bed-rails, and possibly over the lip a bit. i'll also herc at least the top-face of my sliders (they get pretty damn slick when they're wet!!).
6. remove the a/c box and patch the hole.
7. i'm considering painting the under body with rust bullet. i'm not sure this is necessary because i'm not in an area where much salt is used but i should plan for the future. i could see myself living in colorado someday. do they use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter? i figure for now i can skip it and pull the body off again to do it later on if i do move. for now, i can just wash my truck off after being in a snowy climate. thoughts on this?
ok dudes, give me your thoughts on my plans - add to them if you want!
__________________________
after the new body is on the frame, i'll do bumpers and probably start the "mother of all sliders" project. i think i might mount the mirrors to the sliders, and make a quick-release mount system for it so they don't get so hammered on the trail. while it'll probably significantly change by the time i'm ready to do it, from a previous post, this is what i'm thinking:
one problem with this concept is that i'd have to take the fuel door off alltogether because this concept wouldn't allow it to open - so i need to find a solution to that, because i like those little square doors. another problem is that i can't do the doors like in the pic above because it'll be full convertible. so basically, it's going to have to be entirely redesigned, but hopefully accopmlish the same thing.
when i pull the body off my current frame, i'm going to put in a steerning brace and fix my tranny leak. that's about it.
i'd appreciate input on this stuff! sorry, i know this is a book!1. cut the rockers out 2" below the bottom door hinge. This is a touch lower than where mine are cut now, but it allows enough space to do a quick release door hinge, but still increases the body clearance significantly, as well as creates a great slider. i'll probably add a bit of tube to this to keep the trees away from my sheet metal some - but it'll only stick out a couple inches from the truck body.
2. using a piece of 1/4" plate, 5" wide by the length of the bottom of the new door seal, i'll effectively create a 5" tall lip at the base of each door opening. this will prevent water from running in, under the now chopped door (i have this problem now). i'll use some generic weather stripping and attatch it to the door, so that when the door closes, it creates a seal between the door and the lip so that drafts are minimized. i also hope it will make it legal for me to drive in washington without the doors (it's legal here in oregon to run with no doors... on anything!
)3. full convertible conversion, using only the soft top - thus, no need to replace the windshield frame. i may replace the windshield frame sometime down the road, but i'm not worried about that right now.
4. build a simple roll cage. i'm not comfortable doing any wheeling with out some sort of protection from a roof or cage, and since the roof is coming off, the cage has gotta go in. it'll basically be a base - something to start with.probably a glorified roll bar at first, but better than nothing and probably better than the stock roof. the seats and center console will be mounted to it.
a couple things i plan for the cage are to include an over head center switch panel to run all my accessories, as well as a place to mount courtesy lights. this will likely run from the windshield all the way back to the back of the rear seat. i'm considering running buckets in the back, so i might even be able to put a center console between those two seats as well.
shoulder belts are important to me, so i'll weld nuts to the roll cage and then mount the stock seatbelts just as they are mounted stock. someday i'll do 5pt harnesses, but not now.
on this cage i'll build a mount for my hi-lift, fire extinguishers and my shovel. in addition, there will be a cup holder mounted on it for each seat. i'll use 2 metal rings and some expanded metal to make these. this way they are light weight and effective.
i'll likely build oh-sh!t handles into it also.6. build some storage. i've got a ton of ideas for this.
a. i will remove the glass and the window regulator from the tailgate, then install a piano-hinge on the bottom edge of the access panel. i'll use this space to store tools. i haven't decided if i'm just going to put them into canvas bags and toss 'em in, or if i'll do something more organized. i'll weld a piece of metal over the opening on the tail gate at the top to prevent water from coming in and rusting my tools. space saver! also convenient for access on the trial... don't have to move anything or reach over a tailgate to get what i need!
b. since there will be space under the cage where the seats mount, i will use expanded metal and build locking consoles under the seats. i choose expanded metal because it'll keep the weight down. i'll have heavy duty packing plastic bags in there to keep items dry (these can be had a organizing stores (i.e. storables, the container shop, etc.). i envision putting my maps/gps/flashlight/etc down there for storage.
c. i'm going to again use expanded metal, and misc. other types of metal for the frame (L and flatstock, mainly) to build walls into the side of the truck. They'll be welded in place, but have access doors so that things can be stored there as well. i'll put velcro on the inside of the frame of the wall so that i can attatch fabric to the inside so that one can't see what's in there. this keeps the weight down and makes the fabric removable so that it can be washed after getting dusty on trails or something.
5. herc. the floor!! when i pull the carpet out, it's my hope that i can pull it out clean enough that i can turn it into a mat which can be velcro-ed down so i can retain some city comfort while i'm DD'ing it, but can remove it for wheeling. the herc will go all the way up the insides of the bed-rails, and possibly over the lip a bit. i'll also herc at least the top-face of my sliders (they get pretty damn slick when they're wet!!).
6. remove the a/c box and patch the hole.
7. i'm considering painting the under body with rust bullet. i'm not sure this is necessary because i'm not in an area where much salt is used but i should plan for the future. i could see myself living in colorado someday. do they use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter? i figure for now i can skip it and pull the body off again to do it later on if i do move. for now, i can just wash my truck off after being in a snowy climate. thoughts on this?
ok dudes, give me your thoughts on my plans - add to them if you want!
__________________________
after the new body is on the frame, i'll do bumpers and probably start the "mother of all sliders" project. i think i might mount the mirrors to the sliders, and make a quick-release mount system for it so they don't get so hammered on the trail. while it'll probably significantly change by the time i'm ready to do it, from a previous post, this is what i'm thinking:
one problem with this concept is that i'd have to take the fuel door off alltogether because this concept wouldn't allow it to open - so i need to find a solution to that, because i like those little square doors.
another problem is that i can't do the doors like in the pic above because it'll be full convertible. so basically, it's going to have to be entirely redesigned, but hopefully accopmlish the same thing. when i pull the body off my current frame, i'm going to put in a steerning brace and fix my tranny leak. that's about it.
1978Blazerk5
1/2 ton status
Sounds awsome. I like the full convertible idea. I cant wait to see how this thing turns out
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Its cool to see you almost giddy and exited for this build. Keep the good attitude man your plans will change and things wont work out but it will come together in the end.
Balzer
Balzer
