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Cooling System Overhaul - Stumped and Frustrated

I mounted a fan like this for my trans cooler: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16912/overview/ and rigged it to a temperature switch like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13021

Like for Fordum is thinking, seems like a lot of stuff in front of the radiator. I had an 11"x11"x1.5" B&M cooler on my K5 and felt like it blocked too much of the radiator. And that was the only cooler. I'm going to something smaller with that same 12" fan mounted in front of it. As it was that large cooler hardly ever let the trans get above 160°, even in the summer. Only time the trans was hot enough to turn the fan on was on the trail.
 
Man, again, without going all back through this thread, and just from what I remember, you have some issues.

There is NO reason, running a HD fan clutch, stock 195 t-stat with fan shroud and a new radiator, that you should be having these cooling issues. Even with the added trans cooler.

Mine has the factory oil cooler on the drivers side plus I added a same size trans cooler on the passenger side, STILL, doesn't overheat.

Maybe those cylinder walls are just too thin or something..
 
Replaced the radiator. Not the huge one, but been replaced. Copper brass as I recall. Still shouldn't be an issue IMO, it's what they came with factory.
 
Do you have a deadicated Radiator shop (not a general mechanic) in your area? Take your Sub there and have them check it out. This could save you a ton of money in the long run.

Have you confirmed that your lower radiator hose is not collapsing under suction? Watch the hose while the motor is turning +2,000rpm.
 
Keitha said:
Have you confirmed that your lower radiator hose is not collapsing under suction? Watch the hose while the motor is turning +2,000rpm.
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I have NOT done this. The lower hose routing on this motor is ok, but i remember is being kinda sketchy under the shroud and by the frame on my blazer.

I will take a look at this.
 
Pretty sure the spring isn't for "collapsing". Wouldn't the pressure in the system prevent that?

http://automotivemileposts.com/autobrevity/moldedhosecoil.html

"Most cooling systems operate at 12-15 P.S.I., which is controlled by the radiator cap. This is enough pressure to allow a normally functioning cooling system to operate efficiently, yet not enough to cause collapsed hoses or leaks in seals if they're in good condition. If the lower radiator hose collapses, it is normally due to a fault somewhere else in the system, and is not necessarily indicative of a bad hose, although an old hose certainly might be susceptible to collapse due to age."
 
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This can happen,


A spring in the hose like this will prevent that from happening.

mump_1102_26_o+mustang_performance_preparation+lower_radiator_hoses.jpg


Maybe you need to watch this video? lol

 
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Will watch the video in a bit.

Can you buy those springs without the hose? Or should i just buy another hose?

The hoses were goodyear, or gates, or something decent .
 
Might as well see if it's an issue before you throw money at it. You can find plenty of videos of upper or lower hoses sucking shut, just check it by manipulating the throttle by hand.

Still not sure how you can collapse a hose with ~15PSI of pressure in it unless something else is restricting flow...it's a loop afterall.
 
My mothers truck had a problem awhile back with the upper hose sucking shut on acceleration, did cause some heating up of the engine as well.

She spent too much money for a shop to flush out the system, only to not have corrected the problem. When I got around to looking at it, I found that they did not even clean the crud off the cap, which is pretty notorious for the 4.3's apparently... I was pissed.

Did some research in the system and found out that the overfill catch tank tube was plugged with this same crud.

Ultimately, preventing the system from "breathing" like it should to move the coolant from the catch container and pulling it back in under acceleration when needed.

Once the can and hose were cleared of this mud/crud it has been running fine ever since.
 
Might as well see if it's an issue before you throw money at it
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As with all of the suggestions in this thread. I too would think that you could get the truck up to temp and then bring the RPM up to maybe 2500 or so and see if there is any deformation anywhere on either hose.
 
Still not sure how you can collapse a hose with ~15PSI of pressure in it unless something else is restricting flow...it's a loop afterall.
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The pump still creates a negative pressure. Thats what gets it all moving! So, there can be 15psi in the radiator, but a suction before the impeller.
 
The hose on these trucks is molded so i find it hard to see it collapsing, but anything is possible. I don't think they come with a spring at least i don't remember mine having one. You may need to find a similar size hose and pull the spring out for yours.

Did you check you recovery tank hose?
 
Here's an off the wall problem I had that my not be applicable but you never know.

I had a '64 C10 that I swapped in a 350 to replace the original 283. Right after the swap I began have overheating issues. I basically couldn't drive over 55mph. At first I thought it was due to engine break-in but it never went away. I tried swapping in huge radiator, several different mechanical fans, then an electric fan. I don't remember all the things I tried but it went on for a couple of years.

One day I was at the auto hobby shop on base and a guy I was talking to pointed at the exhaust manifold heat control valve (heat riser) and said it looked like it was being obstructed from opening. Sure enough it couldn't open and was always restricting the exhaust. This is why I couldn't get over 55mph and the truck was always on the verge of overheating.

Don't know if your truck has one of those valves on the exhaust, but maybe it'll spark another idea. Or maybe help someone in the future searching for a similar problem.
 
mrk5 said:
Here's an off the wall problem I had that my not be applicable but you never know.

I had a '64 C10 that I swapped in a 350 to replace the original 283. Right after the swap I began have overheating issues. I basically couldn't drive over 55mph. At first I thought it was due to engine break-in but it never went away. I tried swapping in huge radiator, several different mechanical fans, then an electric fan. I don't remember all the things I tried but it went on for a couple of years.

One day I was at the auto hobby shop on base and a guy I was talking to pointed at the exhaust manifold heat control valve (heat riser) and said it looked like it was being obstructed from opening. Sure enough it couldn't open and was always restricting the exhaust. This is why I couldn't get over 55mph and the truck was always on the verge of overheating.

Don't know if your truck has one of those valves on the exhaust, but maybe it'll spark another idea. Or maybe help someone in the future searching for a similar problem.
Click to expand...

They actually had valves on the exhaust? Mine just had the goofy tube that fed warm air into the intake.

But, thanks for checking.
 
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