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Cooling System Overhaul - Stumped and Frustrated

just a cooler killed my 700 here in joysey.. if ya see 20 degrees it's too cold imo...
 
ryoken said:
just a cooler killed my 700 here in joysey.. if ya see 20 degrees it's too cold imo...
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And, the truck saw -20˚ this season in Tahoe. Its staying through the rad.

I'm going to get another Tstat. Its opening at 3/4 gauge.

This one, and the last that i think failed in short order, were both Delco's.

Never had a problem with the staun t-stats.

Going to try that route.


It hasn't failed to open yet, but I can't be bothered to pay attention to the warm up / tstat open EVERY time i drive it.
 
You can throw the stat in water on the stove. See what temp it opens at and if it opens all the way.

Id also try to flush and clean the blOck to eliminate a variable but not sure thats it. :confused:
 
dhcomp said:
This one, and the last that i think failed in short order, were both Delco's.

Never had a problem with the staun t-stats.

It hasn't failed to open yet, but I can't be bothered to pay attention to the warm up / tstat open EVERY time i drive it.
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It sucks if the Delco's prove to have failed. The stants have pretty much been labeled garbage anymore (50/50 failure rate out of the box seems like the norm) so that would leave us with little/no option for a good t-stat. My truck runs a stant t-stat, but it's ~10 years old so might have been before they apparently went downhill.

I will have to check into how feasible this is to implement, but I would sure like the check engine light to come on once the engine hits X degrees, and battery voltage hits X. I don't often ignore the gauges, but sometimes you just get busy doing something else and you don't notice something happening. Has happened to me before.
 
I have a suspicion that Delco is now "private labeling" some of it's products. I suspect that they may be made by one of the other companies and sold as Delco.
 
Wouldn't surprise me. I bought a Delco (OEM) battery cable 5+ years back, and not only was it not anything like what was originally on the car (it was of far cheaper construction) the Delco box stated the part was made in Taiwan.

Anymore Taiwan is a GOOD thing comparatively, but the present stuff may very well be Chinese or like lowest bidder. :(
 
Maybe you answered this already, have you had this checked for combustion gas in the coolant?
 
just do a coolant system pressure test, faster and easier.. you can usually borrow them from parts places.. or $50...
 
ryoken said:
just do a coolant system pressure test, faster and easier.. you can usually borrow them from parts places.. or $50...
Click to expand...


Any preferred testers out there? Purchase wise?

Really need to do this after my "disappearing coolant" act a few weeks ago.
 
ryoken said:
just do a coolant system pressure test, faster and easier.. you can usually borrow them from parts places.. or $50...
Click to expand...

The results with the combustion tester can be pretty straight forward compared to watching for pressure rise with a pressure tester.:dunno:
 
your not watching for a pressure rise, your looking for a leaking system.. it's also a tool that has many other uses, unlike a gas tester...
 
I suggested the combustion tester to test for cumbustion gasses in the coolant from a failing/failed fire ring or cracked head. To test for this with a pressure tester, you watch pressure rise very closely from a no pressure start.

Any chronic overheaters need to be tested for this.
 
it's the same thing as a head gasket, you don't use a pressure tester that way.. the motor isn't running.. engine off, pressurize and see if it leaks down..
 
dyeager535 said:
You aren't the only one with cooling issues, I'm still losing coolant over long periods that isn't showing up anywhere, even after pressure testing the coolant system. :(
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Had the same problem before i change my motor. 1st thing I noticed in the old block is a possible crack in one cylinder (not confirmed), the other issue I found was my heat core blow out not long after changing the motor. I think the heater core was leaking a small amount and I just never noticed. Feel the carpet behind you glove box.

I always recommend using a mechanical water temp gauge way more accurate.

One thing people forget is the water pump. I recommend a high quality high flowing water pump. Don't use a cheap reman. I installed a Meziere WPR401.

If you’re not getting any water into the recovery tank when it over heats then check to make sure the hose is not plugged and that the vent on tank is clear this should be on the cap.
For the transmission getting hot, Double check to make sure the return line isn’t picking up heat from the exhaust or coolant hose. Not sure if you installed this yet but a larger pan with cooling fins might help.
 
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dhcomp said:
Nope. How do i do that? I'm guessing ot make sure i don't have a head gasket leak, right?
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Most parts stores will have them to purchase.

For the test, you drain the coolant level down a few inches. Then there is a tube you fill to a certain level with the blue liquid that is supplied with the kit. With the overflow hose plugged, the tube sits in the filler neck of the radiator. Run the engine ,any combustion gas will turn the blue liquid yellow.

This test is only to prove/disprove a leaking fire ring or crack of some sort.

A pressure test would also be needed to find coolant leaks, internal or external.

In my opinion, both tests need to be done.
 
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dhcomp said:
Nope. How do i do that? I'm guessing ot make sure i don't have a head gasket leak, right?
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Not sure what the instructions state, but I pulled the spark plugs before testing mine. If the head gasket or head is leaking from a crack, theoretically the cylinder(s) will get coolant in them. Once done with your pressure check, you crank the motor over. Coolant will come out the cylinder that has the leak, if that is the problem. Obviously this is only to be expected if your pressure tester loses pressure, and no coolant leaking on the ground.

In my case, I found a BUNCH of the hose connections (pretty much all but two) needed to be snugged up. Helped, but didn't solve my problem. No coolant in the cylinders though, which makes me wonder if a TINY crack would ALWAYS show up as a leak on a cold motor.

The good thing with the pressure test is you can do it with the engine cold, so even a small external leak that might otherwise evaporate before dripping can be caught. I left mine under pressure for at least an hour to make sure any small leak would show up. Didn't lose pressure over that time, which led me to believe I had solved the problem. :(
 
Well, i replaced the Delco stat with a Murry premium or whatever their nice one is.

Its opening at 220-230, which is better than the delco, but still not right.

Temp still fluctuates around 210-220.

Got the pressure tester in the mail today, will report back after i test it. Also thinking its time to look into an Aux temp gauge or something to verify that i'm not on a wild goose chase due to a faulty gauge.
 
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