could this be modified to work up front??

[boggerless]

has anyone considered it? it doesn't turn far enough as it is,but?it looks like its a 14,i didn't have time to really look. i have no idea who's truck it was and didn't want to stay under it too long.i wonder how stout it would be?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I'm not sure how it works, but its probably similar to the double ended cylinder that most people with full hydro use.

It could probably be adapted to the front just as easily as any double ended cylinder could (assuming that the OEM Chevy ram has enough travel for a front)

 

[neverendingproject]

Its a dana 60 iirc and its maximum truning radius, which may be lilited by the steering hardware is only like 20 degrees or something like that.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

It also matters how far the tie rod mounting point is from the centerline of the axle.

In the stock tie rod location a D60 needs 8"-9" of travel (depending on how the steering stops are set).

The quadrasteer ram probably doesn't have that much throw, although you don't need as much travel with high-steer.

 

[virgilh]

rear axle

its a dana 60 35 spliner

 

[BGKYK5]

I think the way it works is there is an electric motor that basically drives a rack and pinion. Sure hangs down low in the OEM setup, huh?

 

[boggerless]

It also matters how far the tie rod mounting point is from the centerline of the axle.

In the stock tie rod location a D60 needs 8"-9" of travel (depending on how the steering stops are set).

The quadrasteer ram probably doesn't have that much throw, although you don't need as much travel with high-steer.

could it be used without the quadsteer assembly?a high steer set up maybe?the OE set up looks too exposed and weak.

 

[boggerless]

its a dana 60 35 spliner

NUTS! so much for my 14 rear AND front idea.thanks for clearing that up though.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

could it be used without the quadsteer assembly?a high steer set up maybe?the OE set up looks too exposed and weak.

I would think so. If it is electrically (rather than hydraulically) controlled you would have a motor that will make mounting/fitting it difficult in the front.

High steer needs less throw on the ram (6"? instead of 8" for a D60) but that steering cylinder may not even have 6" of travel.

If you're looking at full hydro or hydro assist the rams from surplus center are cheap and work well (I've had one on the front of mine for 2-3 years).

 

[boggerless]

I think the way it works is there is an electric motor that basically drives a rack and pinion. Sure hangs down low in the OEM setup, huh?

it's funny to watch it turn also.almost clown car like.

 

[BGKYK5]

If is indeed electrical like I think it is, then you would need to figure out the signal that the computer is sending to it and reproduce it somehow. I think it would require a fair amount of reverse engineering.

 

[boggerless]

I would think so. If it is electrically (rather than hydraulically) controlled you would have a motor that will make mounting/fitting it difficult in the front.

High steer needs less throw on the ram (6"? instead of 8" for a D60) but that steering cylinder may not even have 6" of travel.

If you're looking at full hydro or hydro assist the rams from surplus center are cheap and work well (I've had one on the front of mine for 2-3 years).

i bet the thing is expensive.i wonder how many years GM put those in the trucks?i have only seen three trucks with it since the introduction.

 

[boggerless]

If is indeed electrical like I think it is, then you would need to figure out the signal that the computer is sending to it and reproduce it somehow. I think it would require a fair amount of reverse engineering.

i was thinkin just use the axle housing itself. maybe change/modify the knuckles and use a regular steering set up.me and electronics don't seem to get along anymore.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

i was thinkin just use the axle housing itself. maybe change/modify the knuckles and use a regular steering set up.me and electronics don't seem to get along anymore.

Oh, haha. I thought you meant just use the steering cylinder.

You can't interchange front and rear axles because they rotate different directions (i.e. if you put that rear end in the front of yours the front and rear axles would be driving in different directions).

 

[boggerless]

Oh, haha. I thought you meant just use the steering cylinder.

You can't interchange front and rear axles because they rotate different directions (i.e. if you put that rear end in the front of yours the front and rear axles would be driving in different directions).

OOOOOOHHHHHH. ok then.so can say my wife it the rear axle in the front then?

 

[Blue85]

has anyone considered it? it doesn't turn far enough as it is,but?it looks like its a 14,i didn't have time to really look. i have no idea who's truck it was and didn't want to stay under it too long.i wonder how stout it would be?

We designed and built the Quadrasteer system up here. It was sold only to GM and they didn't market it very well. You could only get it as part of certain (very expensive) packages on only certain trucks. So it was short-lived. Sadly I did not get to participate in the off-road testing of this system, but I did contribute in other ways. Basically I got the electrical noise out of the radio.

I can only tell you so much detail, but it is a Dana 60 housing. Instead of U-joints, it has Rzeppa joints in the axleshafts (basically the same thing you find in IFS front half-shafts), which act as CV joints to avoid the "pulsing" force you get as axleshaft U-joints rotate under angle. The motor, gear reduction unit and steering rack are integrated into the differential cover, as the pictures show. The control unit is remote mounted, typically in front of the rear bumper. It uses several sensors to decide how much steering to provide in the back. It can work in parallel or opposite phase to the front wheels.

To convert for front use, the real quesion is whether or not regular front axleshafts and hubs would swap in (you might need to swap the knuckles, too). Getting rid of the actuator is as simple as a differential cover swap. A donor must be hard to find. It would be better used as a rear steer, either by replacing the electromechanical parts with hydraulics or reprogramming the controller for more "direct" control of rear angle.

I also think it could be made to work as-is, by taking the controller, harnesses, sensors, dash switch and steeringcolumn from a donor vehicle (good luck finding that!). It would still need some serial messages to work unless you knew how to reprogram it. A real vehicle speed signal is important.

We've already had a few discussions on here about swapping axles front to rear and the fact is that you can do it. 10-bolt axles are the clear example. They use the same ring, pinion, spiders, carrier, etc. front and rear and this works at both ends. You just use the opposite side of the teeth. The exception are high-pinion axles. If you flip an axle around, the pinion is now on the opposite side of the ring gear, so you get rotation in the other direction.

 

[boggerless]

We designed and built the Quadrasteer system up here. It was sold only to GM and they didn't market it very well. You could only get it as part of certain (very expensive) packages on only certain trucks. So it was short-lived. Sadly I did not get to participate in the off-road testing of this system, but I did contribute in other ways. Basically I got the electrical noise out of the radio. I can only tell you so much detail, but it is a Dana 60 housing. Instead of U-joints, it has Rzeppa joints in the axleshafts (basically the same thing you find in IFS front half-shafts), which act as CV joints to avoid the "pulsing" force you get as axleshaft U-joints rotate under angle. The motor, gear reduction unit and steering rack are integrated into the differential cover, as the pictures show. The control unit is remote mounted, typically in front of the rear bumper. It uses several sensors to decide how much steering to provide in the back. It can work in parallel or opposite phase to the front wheels.To convert for front use, the real quesion is whether or not regular front axleshafts and hubs would swap in (you might need to swap the knuckles, too). Getting rid of the actuator is as simple as a differential cover swap. A donor must be hard to find. It would be better used as a rear steer, either by replacing the electromechanical parts with hydraulics or reprogramming the controller for more "direct" control of rear angle. I also think it could be made to work as-is, by taking the controller, harnesses, sensors, dash switch and steeringcolumn from a donor vehicle (good luck finding that!). It would still need some serial messages to work unless you knew how to reprogram it. A real vehicle speed signal is important.We've already had a few discussions on here about swapping axles front to rear and the fact is that you can do it. 10-bolt axles are the clear example. They use the same ring, pinion, spiders, carrier, etc. front and rear and this works at both ends. You just use the opposite side of the teeth. The exception are high-pinion axles. If you flip an axle around, the pinion is now on the opposite side of the ring gear, so you get rotation in the other direction.

damn Luke...i hope there isn't a test later!!thanks brother.i just thought it would be an interesting project.fook that idea now!!!but on the plus side,all those 10 bolts i have can be used for another 4wheelsteer project.a small tube buggy.

 

[boggerless]

We designed and built the Quadrasteer system up here. It was sold only to GM and they didn't market it very well. You could only get it as part of certain (very expensive) packages on only certain trucks. So it was short-lived. Sadly I did not get to participate in the off-road testing of this system, but I did contribute in other ways. Basically I got the electrical noise out of the radio. I can only tell you so much detail, but it is a Dana 60 housing. Instead of U-joints, it has Rzeppa joints in the axleshafts (basically the same thing you find in IFS front half-shafts), which act as CV joints to avoid the "pulsing" force you get as axleshaft U-joints rotate under angle. The motor, gear reduction unit and steering rack are integrated into the differential cover, as the pictures show. The control unit is remote mounted, typically in front of the rear bumper. It uses several sensors to decide how much steering to provide in the back. It can work in parallel or opposite phase to the front wheels.To convert for front use, the real quesion is whether or not regular front axleshafts and hubs would swap in (you might need to swap the knuckles, too). Getting rid of the actuator is as simple as a differential cover swap. A donor must be hard to find. It would be better used as a rear steer, either by replacing the electromechanical parts with hydraulics or reprogramming the controller for more "direct" control of rear angle. I also think it could be made to work as-is, by taking the controller, harnesses, sensors, dash switch and steeringcolumn from a donor vehicle (good luck finding that!). It would still need some serial messages to work unless you knew how to reprogram it. A real vehicle speed signal is important.We've already had a few discussions on here about swapping axles front to rear and the fact is that you can do it. 10-bolt axles are the clear example. They use the same ring, pinion, spiders, carrier, etc. front and rear and this works at both ends. You just use the opposite side of the teeth. The exception are high-pinion axles. If you flip an axle around, the pinion is now on the opposite side of the ring gear, so you get rotation in the other direction.

damn Luke...i hope there isn't a test later!!thanks brother.i just thought it would be an interesting project.fook that idea now!!!but on the plus side,all those 10 bolts i have can be used for another 4wheelsteer project.a small tube buggy.a friend has a

 

[boggerless]

We designed and built the Quadrasteer system up here. It was sold only to GM and they didn't market it very well. You could only get it as part of certain (very expensive) packages on only certain trucks. So it was short-lived. Sadly I did not get to participate in the off-road testing of this system, but I did contribute in other ways. Basically I got the electrical noise out of the radio. I can only tell you so much detail, but it is a Dana 60 housing. Instead of U-joints, it has Rzeppa joints in the axleshafts (basically the same thing you find in IFS front half-shafts), which act as CV joints to avoid the "pulsing" force you get as axleshaft U-joints rotate under angle. The motor, gear reduction unit and steering rack are integrated into the differential cover, as the pictures show. The control unit is remote mounted, typically in front of the rear bumper. It uses several sensors to decide how much steering to provide in the back. It can work in parallel or opposite phase to the front wheels.To convert for front use, the real quesion is whether or not regular front axleshafts and hubs would swap in (you might need to swap the knuckles, too). Getting rid of the actuator is as simple as a differential cover swap. A donor must be hard to find. It would be better used as a rear steer, either by replacing the electromechanical parts with hydraulics or reprogramming the controller for more "direct" control of rear angle. I also think it could be made to work as-is, by taking the controller, harnesses, sensors, dash switch and steeringcolumn from a donor vehicle (good luck finding that!). It would still need some serial messages to work unless you knew how to reprogram it. A real vehicle speed signal is important.We've already had a few discussions on here about swapping axles front to rear and the fact is that you can do it. 10-bolt axles are the clear example. They use the same ring, pinion, spiders, carrier, etc. front and rear and this works at both ends. You just use the opposite side of the teeth. The exception are high-pinion axles. If you flip an axle around, the pinion is now on the opposite side of the ring gear, so you get rotation in the other direction.

damn Luke...i hope there isn't a test later!!thanks brother.i just thought it would be an interesting project.fook that idea now!!!but on the plus side,all those 10 bolts i have can be used for another 4wheelsteer project.a small tube buggy.a friend has a geotracker.

 

[boggerless]

damn Luke...i hope there isn't a test later!!thanks brother.i just thought it would be an interesting project.fook that idea now!!!but on the plus side,all those 10 bolts i have can be used for another 4wheelsteer project.a small tube buggy.a friend has a geotracker.

holy crap!!!i have a problem......thats what i get for going to my e male look at this