Crew cab. Use it or lose it.

[BGKYK5]

Here is a rough sketch. When you press the normally open momentary switch on the right, the coil of the relay is energized. That applies 12V to the LED and to the coil so that the coil stays energized once you release the momentary switch. Wire the device you are controlling to the momentary switch as well. To open the relay press the normally closed momentary switch on the top. You can use two circuits like this with two DPDT momentary switches. Switch A energizes relay A and opens relay B and switch B does the opposite. It can be done with three switches and three relays (for three actuator positions), but it gets a little more complicated.

 

[cybrfire]

Here is a rough sketch. When you press the normally open momentary switch on the right, the coil of the relay is energized. That applies 12V to the LED and to the coil so that the coil stays energized once you release the momentary switch. Wire the device you are controlling to the momentary switch as well. To open the relay press the normally closed momentary switch on the top. You can use two circuits like this with two DPDT momentary switches. Switch A energizes relay A and opens relay B and switch B does the opposite. It can be done with three switches and three relays (for three actuator positions), but it gets a little more complicated.

View attachment 73936

So, if you did it with three relays and three momentary buttons, Would pushing button 1 shut off the Led corrseponding with the previous position and then light the LED for button 1? Or do you have to shut the LED off manually with another momentary after moving the actuator....

 

[Slapperbar]

Good question.

 

[BGKYK5]

So, if you did it with three relays and three momentary buttons, Would pushing button 1 shut off the Led corrseponding with the previous position and then light the LED for button 1? Or do you have to shut the LED off manually with another momentary after moving the actuator....

You would set it up so that pressing button 1 shuts off both relay 2 and 3. You would need triple pole double throw momentary switches. The schematic would look the same but you would have the NC part of button 2 and 3 in series so that either one would break the "latch" for relay one. Each button would turn on one relay and turn off the other two, and each relay could be turned off by either of two switches. I hope that makes sense.

Also, I assume that the controller doesn't require much current from the control signals, so you wouldn't need big 30A automotive relays for all of this. You could use little bitty Radio Shack PC board relays or something as long as they are good for 12V and whatever current is required.

 

[cybrfire]

I think I understand that.

Your correct in assuming the low current draw of the control panel itself. I'm wondering what the chance are the control panels could be disected. They may just be the momentary buttons and LED's. If that's the case, I could use the good end of the harness and supply my own buttons and LEDs.

 

[Slapperbar]

That shouldn't be too hard provided the box isn't potted.

 

[cybrfire]

That shouldn't be too hard provided the box isn't potted.

I'm betting its a PCB inside.

 

[Slapperbar]

Easy money then.

 

[cybrfire]

replacement harness came today. Looks like its crimped together alot better. UGGG, now I gotta rethink it all and make a decision. If I order another I'll be getting a spare as well.

Pictures to come of the panel with the LED lit up.

 

[cybrfire]

Here's a couple shots of the box as it stands this morning.





Here's what the panel looks like when all the wires are attached...

 

[MNorby]

not sure if you brought it up but is there a way to program it so you can't try to put in front high/rear low or visa versa besides the detents not allowing it? Did you end up ditching the detents?

 

[cybrfire]

not sure if you brought it up but is there a way to program it so you can't try to put in front high/rear low or visa versa besides the detents not allowing it? Did you end up ditching the detents?

Other than what is mechanical inside the tcase there is no other lockouts. Detents stayed in. They are needed as a means to locate each position for programming the presets. I haven't tried to put one in high and one in low yet but may give it a whirl and see what happens before it goes in. One other safeguard that will be put in place is arming switches under covers for both front and rear axle. My 5 year old likes to push buttons and such.

 

[mikey_d05]

If you end up building your own setup it would be pretty easy to wire it so that couldn't happen.

 

[DEMON44]

Arrrgggg.....you keep making things that I need!!!!

I need to actuate the divorced ford 205 thats going into my 97. did I miss a parts list or where did you order this kind or stuff? or will you be producing a kit for it. I just don't have the time anymore to source cool stuff out. maybe you can build me one. and the controler can go in the console you'll build me right beside the controller for my Espar coolant heater

 

[cybrfire]

Arrrgggg.....you keep making things that I need!!!!

I need to actuate the divorced ford 205 thats going into my 97. did I miss a parts list or where did you order this kind or stuff? or will you be producing a kit for it. I just don't have the time anymore to source cool stuff out. maybe you can build me one. and the controler can go in the console you'll build me right beside the controller for my Espar coolant heater

I got all the actuator stuff from surplus center. Just in case you wanted to know, Surplus center is selling off old stock from SPALUSA.com. Another company.... I think its Export international out of Des Moines Iowa bought the line but apparently not the inventory. They are servicing Spal's customers and continuing the line. I don't know any prices from Export international. probably cheaper through surplus.

I could help you with some bracketry and tabs and so forth. How are you mounting the t case?

 

[DEMON44]

It'll use the corssmember that the steady bearing used to be on. nice flat crossmember. the case will be clocked up to sit on the c-member flat bottomed, which leads to the problem of shifting it. I'm not twin sticking it or anything. so one of those stepper actuators would be cool and solve the functional problem. i will have to use 4wd in the winter or i'd just leave the case in 2hi and deal with it later.

 

[cybrfire]

It'll use the corssmember that the steady bearing used to be on. nice flat crossmember. the case will be clocked up to sit on the c-member flat bottomed, which leads to the problem of shifting it. I'm not twin sticking it or anything. so one of those stepper actuators would be cool and solve the functional problem. i will have to use 4wd in the winter or i'd just leave the case in 2hi and deal with it later.

I'll help if I can. Let me know when you get there and we'll see what shakes loose.

 

[bp71k5]

Subscribed, way cool!

 

[cybrfire]

t case is back in and drives shafts hooked up as well as exhaust.

It's all in the body shops hands now. Besides the multitude of small details to button up.

 

[cybrfire]

OK, little bit of an update. Box is painted. They are doing the spray in bed liner for me as well. They haven't done much with the dually fenders so far. The box itself will be coming back to the shop very soon.

Once the box gets back to the shop the cab goes over.

It's getting so close now I can taste it! I like the taste of taste.

Airbags showed up yesterday along with the last relay I needed for the console electronics.