CK5
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Crew cab. Use it or lose it.

You thought any more about the tranny cooler idea

Yep, still something I'm gona do. Just not quite so high on the priority list. Won't see much heavy hauling duties or any long drives for a while.

The radials are top priority for this thing.
 
That thing sounds like its nothing but problems, I think you should give it to me:D:D:haha:
 
Not much new to report as of late.

Few smaller items sorted out and corrected. Shifting is still somewhat of a mystery. Will work fabulous some of the time and not so hot at other times. Am I however, getting pretty better with the clutchless shifting.

I did howerver start the process of wheel widening for the rear duals. I'm so looking forward to radials. So far, I have one wheel split in half and one of those halves prepped for welding. Kind of a slow process though.
 
Are the radials 37's? How much wider on the wheels. you need to do more offset on them?
 
Are the radials 37's? How much wider on the wheels. you need to do more offset on them?


Yep, 37's. Measure more like a 35".

wheels will be 4.5" wider than they are currently. Nope, no offset change.
 
with your narrow spring mounting, you'll have enough tire clearance inboard, how bout sheetmetal?
 
with your narrow spring mounting, you'll have enough tire clearance inboard, how bout sheetmetal?

Rear axle is no problem for clearance. Front end, need to push the axle forward just a smidge. Other than that, should all be good. When I swap the front axle, I'll deal with that.
 
clutch pedal or actual shifting of tranny ?

if tranny did you use special fluid for the nv4500 ?

if clutch did you use aftermarket master for hydro clutch ? i had problems with one . the hose to master body nipple adaptor had a dome in it that held 1 tiny bubble of air that would suck down in now and then. had to remove the master and twist it 180 to let the bubble go up threw the master and out the slave.
 
clutch pedal or actual shifting of tranny ?

if tranny did you use special fluid for the nv4500 ?

if clutch did you use aftermarket master for hydro clutch ? i had problems with one . the hose to master body nipple adaptor had a dome in it that held 1 tiny bubble of air that would suck down in now and then. had to remove the master and twist it 180 to let the bubble go up threw the master and out the slave.

It's something with the hydraulics. From time to time the clutch fails to fully disengage making it damn near impossible to bring it to a stop. Just keeps chugging along. If I were to pump the clutch pedal at that point it would fully disengage. To bleed the clutch I can either remove the slave and hold it up higher than the master to bring air bubbles out the slave or hold it directly under the master to let the bubble go back up to the master. I've done it both ways and unless its sucking air in somewhere I don't think there is air in the line.

Yep, using the special, rediculously priced synthetic oil.
 
It's something with the hydraulics. From time to time the clutch fails to fully disengage making it damn near impossible to bring it to a stop. Just keeps chugging along. If I were to pump the clutch pedal at that point it would fully disengage. To bleed the clutch I can either remove the slave and hold it up higher than the master to bring air bubbles out the slave or hold it directly under the master to let the bubble go back up to the master. I've done it both ways and unless its sucking air in somewhere I don't think there is air in the line.

Yep, using the special, rediculously priced synthetic oil.

Kert, are the slaves like a lot of other parts these days, made by various outside vendors?

like depending on what store you buy parts in, and what brands they deal with, vary what company slave you get? like with a master cylinder might be Bendix, Cardone, etc... or is this strictly a GM part?
 
It's something with the hydraulics. From time to time the clutch fails to fully disengage making it damn near impossible to bring it to a stop. Just keeps chugging along. If I were to pump the clutch pedal at that point it would fully disengage. To bleed the clutch I can either remove the slave and hold it up higher than the master to bring air bubbles out the slave or hold it directly under the master to let the bubble go back up to the master. I've done it both ways and unless its sucking air in somewhere I don't think there is air in the line.

Yep, using the special, rediculously priced synthetic oil.

When it does disengage is it always toward the bottom? If so it sounds to me like you need a larger bore master cylinder to work with that slave. Not enough fluid volume available.
 
When it does disengage is it always toward the bottom? If so it sounds to me like you need a larger bore master cylinder to work with that slave. Not enough fluid volume available.

As far as I remember, the master and slave that were used were the matched pair off of the truck that the NV4500 came out of.
 
As far as I remember, the master and slave that were used were the matched pair off of the truck that the NV4500 came out of.


Well if that's the case, what about the pedal ratio? Is he still getting the same travel at the master cylinder as the original truck?

Is the fluid level consitent, any leaking through the piston?
 
Well if that's the case, what about the pedal ratio? Is he still getting the same travel at the master cylinder as the original truck?

Is the fluid level consitent, any leaking through the piston?

No idea on those. I haven't had an opportunity to spend any appreciable amount of time at the shop since July.
 
If it works fine untill you drive it for a while check the routing of the lines and such. It sounds like your boiling the the fluid. Its a common problem with race cars and brakes. when the fluid gets hot enough it doesnt apply the same amount of pressure with a stroke of the pedal as it normally does. Then your brakes get spongy and need pumped more. Same principle with a hydraulic clutch. I'd see how close you are to exhaust components and insulate it a little then test it again.
 
Awesome build.

Wanna sell that visor?
PM me on this one.

Kert, are the slaves like a lot of other parts these days, made by various outside vendors?

like depending on what store you buy parts in, and what brands they deal with, vary what company slave you get? like with a master cylinder might be Bendix, Cardone, etc... or is this strictly a GM part?
Definitely some different companies making them. Could be a quality issue if that is what you are getting at. Not strictly a GM part. This one was purchased in Moab if memory serves.

When it does disengage is it always toward the bottom? If so it sounds to me like you need a larger bore master cylinder to work with that slave. Not enough fluid volume available.

As far as I remember, the master and slave that were used were the matched pair off of the truck that the NV4500 came out of.

They are a matched set for the year of the truck and I had thought at one point that a larger bore master cylinder would certainly help. Only down side to that is it would also make the clutch pedal more twitchy than it is now. It's certainly a head scratcher. The clutch certainly doesn't act like the good old SM465 that the blazer has.

Well if that's the case, what about the pedal ratio? Is he still getting the same travel at the master cylinder as the original truck?

Is the fluid level consitent, any leaking through the piston?
Travel is consistant and bottoms out at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Ya know, I haven't looked at the fluid level much other than to check the level of it. Is it possible it leaks past the piston back to the resevoir making the level seem consistant yet loosing the push on the slave?

If it works fine untill you drive it for a while check the routing of the lines and such. It sounds like your boiling the the fluid. Its a common problem with race cars and brakes. when the fluid gets hot enough it doesnt apply the same amount of pressure with a stroke of the pedal as it normally does. Then your brakes get spongy and need pumped more. Same principle with a hydraulic clutch. I'd see how close you are to exhaust components and insulate it a little then test it again.

Been on this end of things already. It does get close to some exhaust in a couple spots. How close is too close? This I don't know for sure. At one point I definitely had a feeling there was a heat element to the problem. Still trouble shooting though. I think the next thing I'd like to try is to switch to a steel line and reroute it well away from any heat sources, might be a tall order though. Only so many ways to go from one side of the truck to the other and there are to header pipes to pass by.
 
Definitely some different companies making them. Could be a quality issue if that is what you are getting at. Not strictly a GM part. This one was purchased in Moab if memory serves.




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I just know some companies develop a rep, others your always good.. but it definitely sounds heat related... maybe some strategic thermal wrap... easy at least! :haha:
 
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