cross over steering oppitions

[6.2Blazer]

I wouldn't spend much money on this, nor expect a lot out of it. A guy in our club tried the same basic setup on his rig years ago and had nothing but problems. The issues:

1. Most stock draglink material is not beefy enough, and it sees more stress when run a severe angle.

2. The hole in a stock tierod for a steering stabilizer is not that beefy, plus again a lot of stress applied at an angle from the draglink.

3. Stock tierod or draglink ends had issues dealing with the angle between the box and tierod. Even with a dropped arm at the steering box there is going to be a large angle between it and the tierod.

Maybe you will have better luck, but this guy had issues or broke something associated with trying to use OEM parts for a rigged up cross-over steering steering system every time he went on the trail. After the third trail, and third loss of steering, he go so frustrated he's never been on the trail again.

 

[owenst7]

!

 

[NorCal_Chris]

ive been out a few times with it and no issues so far.

It hasnt bent or broken, and ive been wedged in and cranked the wheel a couple times.

Bumpsteer is better than what it was with a shortened stock push pull d/l. Also tracks better on road.

Only complaint is that my turning radius is wider, since the knuckles are longer than my pitman arm, so i dont get the full throw. But for the price i paid im not even worried about it.






/shrug

 

[owenst7]

Needs more triangulation. Like this http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary160.jpg

 

[NorCal_Chris]

Needs more triangulation. Like this http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary160.jpg

im sure it does

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

ive been out a few times with it and no issues so far.

It hasnt bent or broken, and ive been wedged in and cranked the wheel a couple times.

Bumpsteer is better than what it was with a shortened stock push pull d/l. Also tracks better on road.

Only complaint is that my turning radius is wider, since the knuckles are longer than my pitman arm, so i dont get the full throw. But for the price i paid im not even worried about it.






/shrug

anther thing to remeber is this just so i can drive it and trail it lightly, i know its not the strongest but i just need it to all work to gether. like i said next years tax refund will pay for the d60 as well as all the other peices to put the d60 cross over steering to gether, unless something like some un for seen bill pops up (kids, wedding, etc.). other then that this is the last peice to my puzzle to get it back on the road after being down for two years. I WANT TO GO PLAY NOT LOOK AT IT, and dream about driving it.

thanks nocal_chris check ur pms have a couple questions for u.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Just my .02 here since it seems to come up a lot. I used both my draglink and my tie rod from My 10B crossover setup on My 60. The 60 stuff is shorter. Get a draglink and tie rod with the weld in bungs instead of the threaded. When you get a 60 all you have to do is sell the arm (easy) and buy a 60 arm and 2 new bungs. Shorten to new length and wah lah!

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...tman-Arm-for-Jeep-TJ-LJ-XJ-YJ-ZJ-p-28422.html

found this pit man arm ready to bolt on for, already reamed out for a gm drag link. for 50 dollars.