CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

CUCV mild usage build. Nothing radical here, move along now.

If you call SD you'll get a better rate. I think I saved $80 over the other guys...

Even if you went with their full lift kit it isn't a bad deal. I don't see any issue running 2 inch blocks. You could always make a two inch bolt on block if you wanted.

It's a good deal with u bolts and shocks, even though I'm sure you also get decent pricing on hardware.
 
Put in a king pin rebuild kit today and the death wobble is gone.

Tires need some balancing but I think we'll try putting the rears up front first or maybe just do both at the same time.

Runs out pretty good at highway speed though. Speedometer is within 1 or 2 mph according to cell phone GPS.

According to the online gear calculators, should be running somewhere around 2500 rpms with the 37's. Figuring them as an actual 36" tire.

So far we haven't had any tire rub but expect if it were to flex much at all it would rub.

Next up on the list is to get a new floor mat in it and the dash pad replaced even if its a temporary dash pad until we put in an aluminum dash. My kid bought a used stereo and a used set of corbeau Baja buckets for it. Probably do those the same time we do the floor mat. Throw in some sun visors that are in better shape and it won't be to shabby inside. A good work truck.

Door strike pins need to be replaced. Both doors will rattle a bit when you're going down the highway. Wrapped one with some black tape to quite them down temporarily. Won't last long.
 
Door strike pins need to be replaced. Both doors will rattle a bit when you're going down the highway. Wrapped one with some black tape to quite them down temporarily. Won't last long.


There's this vender on here that makes these kickass tube doors. They even come with new strike pins.
 
There's this vender on here that makes these kickass tube doors. They even come with new strike pins.

Our strike pins are specific to our tube doors so that's a no go.

heared pex tube is the correct size to rebush them easy . :whistle:

Yep. 1/2" pex tube is perfect

That's good to know. I'll have to look and see if anybody has that around here locally.

Or you can just get new ones on the fix it rack at the local auto parts store for a couple bucks.

Been there, done that. Even asked if they could get them in from there warehouse but what they listed wasn't the right size thread and didn't come with the bushing.
 
my Napa had new dorman's to me by the afternoon from another store/warehouse..
 
Hmm I just found the bushings on the easy fix rack with stuff like screw on door lock knobs and other simple stuff.
Didn't need to buy the whole striker.
 
I know, LMC has them but not really worth the shipping alone. If I get up to the nearest big town in the near future, one of the auto parts stores there will most certainly have them.
 
Got the door strike pins in a week or so ago and stuck them in tonight. That's way less annoying.

Death wobble has returned. I think the kid and I will shim the axle a bit. The Caster angle is on the bottom of where I like it to be. Good opportunity to get the EZ inch in there as well.
 
I forgot to say, even though I was joking about the tube doors. I use your door pins with my stock doors also. I haven't had any problems with them.
 
I forgot to say, even though I was joking about the tube doors. I use your door pins with my stock doors also. I haven't had any problems with them.

They are a little wider in the throat than the factory ones but if they work for you, that's cool.
 
This is what we did this morning. Whole removal process took between 45 minutes to an hour. Fastest removal I've ever had. Not a single bolt rusted stuck.

jimmy%20axle%20repair_zpstuj4heso.jpg
 
Top Bottom