If you are going to rebuild a engine have a machine shop check the block and machine it. People can do Dingle ball hone rebuilds but I would get it checked out. But that's just me.
CK5
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Cylinder heads
- Thread starter Blazer Ralph
- Start date
I would have your engine checked by someone who knows what they are doing.
If it needs machining definitely have it done but I agree that the grunt work you should do especially if you have help.
If you were closer I could help.
I might still take a day and come over and help once you have all the parts and the machine work is done.
If you were doing a budget build, I would say skip the machine shop but you are putting a lot of money on the parts do it right and have a machine shop treat the engine to a spa day
Ya I think I will just have the machine shop rebuild the engine, then I will just drop it back in and re-install everything. Thanks
Assembling an engine isn't that difficult.
Measurements and parts prep are key, as is cleanliness.
If you were going to have to buy specialty tools to assemble your engine, you can use that money for the machine shop. Have them do the long block, leave pan and timing cover off. We will guide you from there.
You should really degree cam, and decide weather timing should advanced straight up or retarded.
Those tools can be spendy. Dergreing and setting a cam is a skill many do not understand, but make a difference in ok running engine and outstanding.
Measurements and parts prep are key, as is cleanliness.
If you were going to have to buy specialty tools to assemble your engine, you can use that money for the machine shop. Have them do the long block, leave pan and timing cover off. We will guide you from there.
You should really degree cam, and decide weather timing should advanced straight up or retarded.
Those tools can be spendy. Dergreing and setting a cam is a skill many do not understand, but make a difference in ok running engine and outstanding.
So I got engine out and took to the machine shop, after discussing with the owner about the rebuild I ended up buying a 383 stroker from him. He had it built already for someone who ended up going a different route. They just need to install the cam and cylinder heads and a few things. Should have it back in a week or so.
Nice low down torque in a 383
It’s mandatory that ya give us some cam specs when going with a stroker motor.
They gonna dyno it and break in the cam for you?
No I gotta do that.
I recommend you have them install a hydraulic roller cam. A lot less risk of a flat lobe on breakin
so been doing some research on breaking in the cam and doesn’t seem too complicated, as long as I get the truck to fire up right away and keep engine at 2500 rpm and fluctuate to 2000 rpm here and there for about 20 min should be good right? Also I will try and get someone to help so can make sure no leaks or anything.
Flat tappet cams and bad brake in these days sucks bad . . . Go roller or let them brake in cam and have under there warranty plan .
Because most oils all took the zinc out.
You have to do good oil research and use one that still has it. Even conventional ones took it out, so you either but the right oil, or add a zinc additive.
I already had bought the cam.
Oh and also bought the cylinder heads that need flat tappet cam. The shop did tell me that I needed zddp oil.
I will call them tomorrow, I don’t think he has installed anything yet. I’m assuming I can return everything, I bought from summit recently
Nah. Watch the Motor oil geek. You can break these in on vr1 or driven without additives
Go roller and avoid the drama
Heads say that for the springs
Valvoline vr1 or driven are both fine for break in
@folkenheath sells parts. Shoot him a pm
