Its weird for about 5 minutes of driving around corners and such. After that, you wont even notice it.
CK5
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d44 crossover steering/high lift worth it? should I?
- Thread starter chicken joe
- Start date
Its weird for about 5 minutes of driving around corners and such. After that, you wont even notice it.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
my ball joints were good in may when i rebuilt the hubs, but if i have to take off or replace the knuckle i will replace them too.
i have inner axle seals too, but everyone i talked to told me not to mess with taking the gears out i was just looking for trouble so i never did them.
and yes you guys sure know how to spend eveyone elses money
i have inner axle seals too, but everyone i talked to told me not to mess with taking the gears out i was just looking for trouble so i never did them.
and yes you guys sure know how to spend eveyone elses money
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
Don't hold off doing crossover due to an axle swap in the future. 
A Dana 60 draglink and tie rod are shorter so if/when you upgrade you can cut the tube and do new weld in bungs for the new length if you need to shorten it. Just make sure the stuff you buy has the weld in bungs and the DOM isn't threaded so you have this option.
A Dana 60 draglink and tie rod are shorter so if/when you upgrade you can cut the tube and do new weld in bungs for the new length if you need to shorten it. Just make sure the stuff you buy has the weld in bungs and the DOM isn't threaded so you have this option.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
so do i get a 2wd gear box from ord or what is the best route here
thanks
mike
thanks
mike
- Joined
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Yep I like the high steer and crossover and add the hyrdro assist while you are at it. Search power steering mods on here on how to mod your pump unless you go after market.
Just get one from the junkyard for your era K5. Several companies sell the pitman arm and steering arm. I know the consensus is ORD, but I ran the Sky tall arm for my 10b. If you plan on running a zero rate you'll need the tall arm or a spacer to clear the springs.
Hydro is always easy to add later if you decide you need or want it.
Hydro is always easy to add later if you decide you need or want it.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
i keep reading about these zero raes. i have seen them on web sites, but i have no idea what they do or what they are for, can someone explain them or show me a pic.
thanks
mike
"If I remember correctly" (well that's what ive always thought it meant lol)
But yah if yours mounts on the top, just be sure to find a passenger knuckle that mounts on top. Or worst case you end up getting two matching knuckles, and while your swapping you can get new balljoints and check out all the other fun things behind your wheels lol.
Isnt ck5 just the best thing ever on your wallet
Just to clear this up, passenger flat top knuckles came from 76 and older rigs where the tie rod came through the top. Anything newer and it came through the bottom so you will either need matching knuckles or you will have to machine one side or the other to change which side the tie rod goes through. There is a bushing you can buy so that you drill out the tie rod hole and weld in to change the direction of the taper.
On mine I got both knuckles that come through the top. Then use a tie rod that was originally for the bottom side (tie rods that came through the top drop down to clear the springs while the ones that come through the bottom are straight), Its a tight fit between the springs if you don't have a zero rate but you'll gain about 3" of ground clearance on your tie rod.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
next week im going to order a tie-rod, can someone guide me in the direction of a good one with adjustment on both ends
this is where i need to start no matter what
just to clear it up this is a 76, and i have the flat top knuckles with the tie rod that goes in from the top
this is where i need to start no matter what
just to clear it up this is a 76, and i have the flat top knuckles with the tie rod that goes in from the top
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
would it be ok to use a re-man steering gear from the parts store?
That's what I've been using for a few years and I have had no problems
They are a 1" block that bolts to the spring pack like an add a leaf so its safe to use up fron tif you need a little extra clearance.
WFO sells a kit you do yourself, or they sell it assembled as well. I believe they are also doing a Christmas sale.
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Tierod-Kit-w--Ends/3163/4295/4494
They also sell the pitman arm you need.
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Superlift-1104-Machined-for-Chevy-Draglink-Taper/3163/3360/3361
Here is the Steering arm I would run.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=DANA-44THSA-001
Sky also sells a kit with the drag link and pitman arm. May be able to package it together at one place and save a few bucks.
Yep a parts store box will work. I just recommended a junk yard because they are cheaper.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
you guys are the best!!!
thanks for all the great info, now its time to start picking out parts and ordering.
only reason im thinking about going with a reman box is, most of my bone yards in the area dont have much of anything my year and almost all of it, if the do have something is 4x4. even at that, with the yards in my area i only have a hand full of solid axle chevys to choose from
thanks for all the great info, now its time to start picking out parts and ordering.
only reason im thinking about going with a reman box is, most of my bone yards in the area dont have much of anything my year and almost all of it, if the do have something is 4x4. even at that, with the yards in my area i only have a hand full of solid axle chevys to choose from
I don't know if you have access to one but in the past on a 44 or 10 bolt I have always reamed out the stock knuckles to accept the larger one ton tie rod ends.
Then build my own tie rod. Like I said I use 1.5" .250 wall and then sleeve it with 1.75 .120 wall tube. I have had stuff like that on some pretty heavy rigs. No problems so far.
I would not use any stock tie rod out there even if you can't ream for the bigger ends at least use stock ends on a beefy tie rod
Then build my own tie rod. Like I said I use 1.5" .250 wall and then sleeve it with 1.75 .120 wall tube. I have had stuff like that on some pretty heavy rigs. No problems so far.
I would not use any stock tie rod out there even if you can't ream for the bigger ends at least use stock ends on a beefy tie rod
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
o'rileys here has it for $125 with a $50 core.
think they will know the difference?
now im getting to close to another problem. my lines leak, my res leaks and has the wrong brackets, so it isnt adjustable and has flown off already when reved to much lol.
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
almost everything i want to do to my blazer ends up coming back to the same issue, i dont know how to weld.
as soon as we move into a place with our own garage, a welder is one of the first things im going to get. my chick and i are going to try and teach each other, we both prety much know how, just need practice
as soon as we move into a place with our own garage, a welder is one of the first things im going to get. my chick and i are going to try and teach each other, we both prety much know how, just need practice
Don't waste your time with crossover on the d44.
I did it and I wouldn't do it again.
Get the d60 and do it right. You won't have to worry about the knuckle. My Reed knuckle is completely unalignable and had to be ground down just to fit inside the inner c.
Adam, because he is special, has everything work for right him.
If you want to keep your rims just get a drop arm and save a lot of money.
I don't see you doing a lot if hardcore wheeling with that truck freshly painted.
I did it and I wouldn't do it again.
Get the d60 and do it right. You won't have to worry about the knuckle. My Reed knuckle is completely unalignable and had to be ground down just to fit inside the inner c.
Adam, because he is special, has everything work for right him.
If you want to keep your rims just get a drop arm and save a lot of money.
I don't see you doing a lot if hardcore wheeling with that truck freshly painted.
