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Dabba's First Floor Resto... (Ugh, trying again, Need input! 10/21/12....)

no, my bad for being a moron... ummm, wait, yeah, there was a new post there.. i was in zombie mode probably... i've been avoiding my thread as it makes me sad and angry... hopefully after my back gets welded or something, I can attack it in the spring with buckets of cash and energy.. i'll have to go take a peak..

sorry Dabba... :whistle:
 
haha, excelent, you have all this time to help me >:) And I'm using a grinder with metal cutting blades to cuit the sheet metal. Ive been freehanding it so The cuts arent the best.. I mearsure and draw of course, but still freehand cutting :\ I dont have the best supplies haha
 
nah, i figured that..

might wanna check into a pair of weiss snips... really invaluable and not a ton of money, like $15 a piece or set of 3 for like $35, 40....

right, left and straight

M1R_M2R_M3R.jpg
 
Hit a tool heavy pawn shop or two and they are like 3 to 5. Never pay full price offer like half of marked and diker from there. Another great place to get decent tools on the cheap is garage sales. Find the old people neighborhoods sat morning early for best deals. The more you buy the cheaper it gets. Buy a hundred worth for like 20 bucks. :rolleyes:

You can staight edge the cut with a piece of 2x4 or angle steel clamped to the line and run the wheel close then grind to edge. Are you using cut offs or grinding wheels?

Sorry, went back and answered my own qustion: cut off wheels.
 
Well, i have tin snips like those, should i be using those to cut the peices instead of the grinder? or just the really small stuff or precise stuff?
 
Okay! Got the new metal in, but I wont be cutting it up before i get some advice. So, it's too big as it is right now to get onto the floor to measure with the hole and such. So i measured from one of the bumbs still on the floor as a reference. I figure with 12 inches up from the bump, should give me plenty of room to work with, and ill be able to get it onto the floor to measure more accurately. I Also got the inside rocker peices, which looking at what they actually are, and what i have on my truck, i don't seem to need at all. So waste of 10 bucks. /shrug



20.jpg

Fresh out of the box


21.jpg

These L bends on the side of the floor confused me a bit, and as i recall the large one interfered with the floor support so i had to cut it, perhaps i measured wrong. The top little one got cut last time too, but ill try to leave them this time.. My floor isnt cut to the edge of the cab though, theres about a quarter inch left so.. may have to cut the little guy.


22.jpg



Thats whereabouts my first cuts gonna be so i can get it onto the floor.
 
Move slow. Cut small, fit and cut again. If you get aggravated, walk away, come back later.

Don't start welding till it fits how you want it.
 
^^^^^ what he said....

I'll make a post when I get home tonight that may help ya....
 
496 hit it on the head. Take your time fit, trim, fit, trim, till you like the fit. You have most of the info in your thread and you have learned what went wrong. An extra hour or two will save you waiting for three days for yet another panel.

Start fitting from where the mistake was made last time (the door side). Make sure it gets fitted corectly because anything away from the door over is just run out and can be trimmed afterwards. Use the screws to pin it to the floor when you do your tracing. Then leave enough for overlap. I prefer to use a scribe rather than a marker to trace, gives a tighter line and doesnt get smeared or erased (you can use a screwdriver or awl if you dont have an actual scribe).

Also dont set any time limits for completion, what you may think will only take an hour may take 3. Let the project guide you not the other way around, metal has a voice and it will tell you what it will and wont do. Dont forget about your heat on the welds from last time and allow a little more cooling between trigger pulls so the panel doesnt warp or move as much on you. Keep the hammer and dolly close and recheck every thing after a couple of welds if not after every weld and when you start tacking the piece dont move from hole to hole in a line get the corners down first then skip around to diffrent parts of the patch.

Good luck Dabba, I am off to shoot my trophy does for the year but it sounds like Ryoken will be checking in later and you know you have tons of support with everyone else.
 
Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm going to try to go slow and not think about any snow that may be coming.. So, I'm going to cut that top peice tommorow a little at a time.. Still not sure about those l bends though.
 
I think the L bend you keep asking about is the part you cut of last time and created your gap. I have not done the floor in a blazer as of yet, but in relooking over your thread (pictures) and of course taking into account possible camera angles that may be the missing component. But sometimes the factory will put a bend into a piece for rigidity so it doesnt get a dented and misshapen in shipping. If it helps to use it then use it.

Again head scratching is free so trim stand back scratch your head and think does that look right, does it fit right, can I live with it. If the answer is yes move on, if no move it around. Rinse and repeat.
 
Duh...one other trick I keep forgetting is to maybe make a cardboard template to help transfer to the steel. Cheap solution and can be trimmed sevenways from sunday till you get it close. I will have the wife kick me for you for not mentioning it earlier. Its hard to sometimes give advice when your not right on site.

You can also duct tape it to the floor and bend it to conform where you need it.
 
Duh...one other trick I keep forgetting is to maybe make a cardboard template to help transfer to the steel. Cheap solution and can be trimmed sevenways from sunday till you get it close. I will have the wife kick me for you for not mentioning it earlier. Its hard to sometimes give advice when your not right on site.


Oh damn thats a really really good idea... Who cares if i **** up the cardboard. Damn it.
 
It's metal. It bends. If that bend section is not right, straighten it out. Work with it. Get it to meet up with the rocker and close the gap. Then cut off what you don't need.

You can, instead of cutting it all off, bend the last bit up where it meets the rocker and create the pinch weld where the door seal slips on to. Look at you passenger side for reference.
 
Hmm, ill see. For now I'm just gonna cut that small but and get the big peice on the floor, and start drawing lines again from there. Of course pictures so all you guys can see.
 

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