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Dana 44 standard rotation 3.42 rato.. Pros and cons??

i need a driverside drop in sua ... i have 2 10 bolt front axle housings in the backyard... retube one of them? then i will need a new transfer case. alot more expensive than just finding a new ring and pinion for the driverside drop sua D44 front axle i already have that is complete
 
So you made this post 9/5 and still haven't found the gears. If you just went with 373s like everyone said to, your truck would be done and be driving it. The difference is barely 200 RPM.
 
Phil513 said:
I am running 3:42's in my 10 bolt, with SM465 and 35 inch tires. It's not too bad, but on the edge. With an automatic it would probably be worse.
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Currently what I'm running in my truck with a 700r4. It sucks! Get deep gears and be good to go. I'm in the process of swapping out mine. Truck stinks out on the trail.
 
stump_puller said:
Currently what I'm running in my truck with a 700r4. It sucks! Get deep gears and be good to go. I'm in the process of swapping out mine. Truck stinks out on the trail.
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Yeah, I'd really like to go to 4:10s, but then I hesitate to go through that work on 10 bolts, but then the cost of going tons front and back . . . .

Its the same old story.
 
Phil513 said:
Yeah, I'd really like to go to 4:10s, but then I hesitate to go through that work on 10 bolts, but then the cost of going tons front and back . . . .

Its the same old story.
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Split the difference and go 3/4-ton? The rear FF is a cheap upgrade, it's just the front D60 that's expensive. :dunno:

Gets you half-way there without spending nearly half the money.
 
campfire said:
Split the difference and go 3/4-ton? The rear FF is a cheap upgrade, it's just the front D60 that's expensive. :dunno:

Gets you half-way there without spending nearly half the money.
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Definitely an option I am considering.
 
I think Vin is implying no one new is gonna come along and have that oddball gearset.. the people have seen this, who are going to see it...
 
I can't comment anymore. I have nothing to say.
 
Like I said before, all the time looking for something that not sure ever existed, OP could have gotten gears or different rear axle and be done....
 
Stomis said:
3.31s and 3.42s will work together no problem. There is a bugger factor between the front and rear in all the gear and chain slop in all the running gear.


Toyota guys run 5.38s up front and 5.29s in the back all the time.
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It would be fine off-road and fine in 2WD, but I wouldn't like it on snowy roads. I once had just a mismatched set of tires (different brands with the same size on the sidewall) and you could feel the truck periodically lose traction and regain. Always just seemed a little squirrely on ice. With a matched set of tires it tracked a lot better.

There is no ongoing slop in the drivetrain unless you have a 203 (or other center diff) transfer case. When you take off or change directions the slop lets things move, but if the engine does 1000 revolutions in 3rd gear, 4HI, both driveshafts did 1000 revolutions and both axles did 292 revolutions. Now with one axle at 3.31, it went 302 revolutions, so along that mile your tires slipped the equivalent of 10 full rotations. There is nothing else to slip.

Yeah, it's fine temporarily, but not ideal.
 
Blue85 said:
There is no ongoing slop in the drivetrain unless you have a 203 (or other center diff) transfer case. When you take off or change directions the slop lets things move, but if the engine does 1000 revolutions in 3rd gear, 4HI, both driveshafts did 1000 revolutions and both axles did 292 revolutions. Now with one axle at 3.31, it went 302 revolutions, so along that mile your tires slipped the equivalent of 10 full rotations. There is nothing else to slip.

Yeah, it's fine temporarily, but not ideal.
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That slippage also put additional stress on your driveline components, as they try to bind against each other.

A different non-OEM way to resolve this is to appropriately differ your tire sizes to match your different gears.

The 235/85R16 tires mentioned by the OP should be 31.7" (nominal diameter). 31.7 * 3.31/3.42 = 30.7 nominal diameter. This is equivalent to either a 245/75R16 or a 225/85R16

If you ran the larger tires on the rear and the smaller tires on the front, it would compensate for the mismatched gears. Or you could just get used to having slippage in 4WD mode. Or you could change gear sets in one or both axles. Options abound. :dunno:
 
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