Are these spring perches NORMAL? Driver side is a welded on platform and the passenger side is a solid perch that you can't see through.
CK5
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Dana 60 Front Axle Resources
- Thread starter ZombieK5
- Start date
Are these spring perches NORMAL? Driver side is a welded on platform and the passenger side is a solid perch that you can't see through.
looks like a std gm dana 60 front .
spring pads are 100% normal configuration .
take the tag off the dif cover and wire brush the back side . this is how i read a lot of them when the front gets to bad .
fyi you need brake rotors and might have frozen up pads on the inners causing the rust lines of non contact on the inner rotor face .
spring pads are 100% normal configuration .
take the tag off the dif cover and wire brush the back side . this is how i read a lot of them when the front gets to bad .
fyi you need brake rotors and might have frozen up pads on the inners causing the rust lines of non contact on the inner rotor face .
I definitely want to change the entire front brake setup. NEW EVERYTHING.
New Rotors, Calipers, wheel bearings, NEW hubs and whatever else I can get new.
dont over do it .
i am running a dana 60 with lots of used parts still . i got the axle from a 1985 crew cab drw truck in early 2001 and all i had to do was swap to srw hubs and clean and repack the original gm bearings . i later swapped on the stronger original early spicer locking hubs . i am still running this axle now under its 4th truck and its had a fisher 8ft snow plow and 9ft plow on it at times . i have run 235/85/16 to 38x15.50x16 ground hogs and a built 400 sbc and not one time have i had a problem with the axle .
so tear it down and clean and inspect then make a list of what NEEDS replaced . and buy good name brand stuff when you do .
i am running a dana 60 with lots of used parts still . i got the axle from a 1985 crew cab drw truck in early 2001 and all i had to do was swap to srw hubs and clean and repack the original gm bearings . i later swapped on the stronger original early spicer locking hubs . i am still running this axle now under its 4th truck and its had a fisher 8ft snow plow and 9ft plow on it at times . i have run 235/85/16 to 38x15.50x16 ground hogs and a built 400 sbc and not one time have i had a problem with the axle .
so tear it down and clean and inspect then make a list of what NEEDS replaced . and buy good name brand stuff when you do .
Decided to do the rear 14bolt disk break conversion from Lugnut4x4. Turns out to be only marginally more expensive than new drums and related equipment/hardware.
As Far as the Dana 60, I found a setup on Lugnut4x4 that includes new calipers and rotors with a fairly reasonable price.
Doing new bearings only because I have no idea what previous owner did with the vehicle or how much actual care he gave it. Once I get the parts on that I personally installed I can maintain it to my standards. Plus I'll get the experience of doing it myself.
New fluids and I'll make sure the ends are in good shape. I'll post pics of the ends to see if anyone sees a problem.
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
Im going through a similar process right now. Well... Im saving money for all the parts I need. here is a list of everything I have found for what I need so far. Not saying these are the best prices. But it should get you in the ballpark:
Front Dana 60
Disc Brake Kit https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2252.html 360
Kingpin rebuild kit https://www.offroaddesign.com/master-d60-kingpin-rebuild-kit-one-side-only.html 260
Long Shock Tab (X8) https://www.offroaddesign.com/fabrication-parts/weld-on-tabs.html 20
Short Shock Tab (X8) https://www.offroaddesign.com/fabrication-parts/weld-on-tabs.html 20
Taper Repair Insert (X2) https://www.offroaddesign.com/tapered-repair-insert.html 40
Rear Corporate (Chevrolet) 14 Bolt
Disc Brake Kit https://lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-full-float-rear-disc-conversion-kit/ 645
5.38:1 Gear set and Rebuild kit https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod...ana_60_std_rotation_thick_rearstd_front_wkoyo 722.57
Locker https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/lockers/lockercompressor-arb-locker-and-air-compressor-package $1,596.87
Hope this helps.
Front Dana 60
Disc Brake Kit https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2252.html 360
Kingpin rebuild kit https://www.offroaddesign.com/master-d60-kingpin-rebuild-kit-one-side-only.html 260
Long Shock Tab (X8) https://www.offroaddesign.com/fabrication-parts/weld-on-tabs.html 20
Short Shock Tab (X8) https://www.offroaddesign.com/fabrication-parts/weld-on-tabs.html 20
Taper Repair Insert (X2) https://www.offroaddesign.com/tapered-repair-insert.html 40
Rear Corporate (Chevrolet) 14 Bolt
Disc Brake Kit https://lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-full-float-rear-disc-conversion-kit/ 645
5.38:1 Gear set and Rebuild kit https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod...ana_60_std_rotation_thick_rearstd_front_wkoyo 722.57
Locker https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/lockers/lockercompressor-arb-locker-and-air-compressor-package $1,596.87
Hope this helps.
I went with the Lugnut4x4 14bolt disc conversion with parking breaks. It looks fantastic. I ordered bearings with it but I'm not going to use them. The races are Made in USA but bearings are clearly stamped CHINA. I will never use bearings from China. Horrible experiences with China bearings on my 2005 Soob Outback and 2014 Corolla. Put China bearings on during a timing belt install and it grenaded 5 months later. Destroyed one of the heads and had to get a JDM engine ($1,200+). Corolla had new wheel bearings installed with China bearings and they went bad after 10k miles. I then used OEM Japan bearings (NTK) on the Soob and haven't looked back (19k miles later with new engine). I also used TIMKEN bearings for Corolla and it's smooth as silk after 40k miles. CHINA bad!
I am waiting to install disc brakes. I have an ORD suspension package coming and want to put that on 1st.
View attachment 338931
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
ORD is the way to go! I have already installed the flip kit, 5" custom lift springs, crossover steering and HD tie rod. All from them. Haven't driven it yet, but cant wait.
dana 60 ruff stuff brake kit = good stuff but why do you need this ? what size wheel / tire do you plan to run ?
reason i ask is this is a 3/4 ton conversion brake kit for the 1ton dana 60 front .
reason i ask is this is a 3/4 ton conversion brake kit for the 1ton dana 60 front .
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
I'm assuming your talking to me, since OP is going with lugnut disc brake kit. Really Im doing ruffstuff for two reasons. One; cost. it looks like a complete kit with just 3/4 T chevy calipers and shoes that I can find at any O'reilly accross america if I need to. and Two; size. I really only want to run a 17" wheel MAX. with 40" tires. so keeping the disc smaller will probably help keep everything tucked in the wheel without doing any modifications to the caliper, or running a crazy offset.
With a 40" tires DO NOT use stock 3/4 ton brakesI'm assuming your talking to me, since OP is going with lugnut disc brake kit. Really Im doing ruffstuff for two reasons. One; cost. it looks like a complete kit with just 3/4 T chevy calipers and shoes that I can find at any O'reilly accross america if I need to. and Two; size. I really only want to run a 17" wheel MAX. with 40" tires. so keeping the disc smaller will probably help keep everything tucked in the wheel without doing any modifications to the caliper, or running a crazy offset.
And the only wheel size that is a problem is 15"
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
Any reason why? I dont plan to tow really anything with this truck, so weight shouldnt really be an issue. I figured 3/4 ton breaks would be over engineered enough.
Not trying to be an ass. Just curious. This is my first time doing these kind of upgrades. Is there some kind of calculator or something to find out what I really need?
Not trying to be an ass. Just curious. This is my first time doing these kind of upgrades. Is there some kind of calculator or something to find out what I really need?
big tires = big brakes .
my first truck was a k10 with 3/4 ton axles and vac brakes . it was on 36" tsl swampers and was good .
then i popped 2 dana 44 gear sets and said screw it and found a doner k30 for the dana 60 and hydroboost brakes . . . . WOW did she stop after this upgrade . and bonus no more broken axle guts with the 60 .
16" was stock over the brakes from a gm dana 60 front . so 17" is no problem. and you can get calipers for dana 60 front at lots of places . there the same caliper for 2wd or 4wd in 1ton applications so there is millions of calipers out there just like the rest . only brake mod i would do to a 60 is BIGGER yet .
my first truck was a k10 with 3/4 ton axles and vac brakes . it was on 36" tsl swampers and was good .
then i popped 2 dana 44 gear sets and said screw it and found a doner k30 for the dana 60 and hydroboost brakes . . . . WOW did she stop after this upgrade . and bonus no more broken axle guts with the 60 .
16" was stock over the brakes from a gm dana 60 front . so 17" is no problem. and you can get calipers for dana 60 front at lots of places . there the same caliper for 2wd or 4wd in 1ton applications so there is millions of calipers out there just like the rest . only brake mod i would do to a 60 is BIGGER yet .
The 3/4 ton brakes were made for a 31" tire.
With a 35" tire they're adequate at best, I got a blazer with 37" and I couldn't comfortably stop where I needed, an upgrade to wildwood calipers solved the problem but at a high cost.
Having the 1 ton brakes and 40" tires I would consider a better caliper to improve my braking.
It's a combination of more weight and more leverage on brakes.
Your truck, do what you want but I would never downgrade the brakes
If you didn't understand what bigger tires do, think the difference between an 8" long ratchet and an 18" breaker bar. Your brakes are the bolt you're turning, which one will overpower the bolt easier?
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
Alright. Roger that guys. thanks for the help. Ill just go ahead and get the one ton calipers and rotors. I guess I just figured 3/4 ton stuff would be beefy enough for what I need. Live and learn as they say. thanks again.
I ran 38s with only the rear brakes working on my tons and had zero issue stopping safely other than the rear locking up. Unless the 3/4 ton brakes are that much smaller than the 1 ton. Can't wait to see how it works with all 4 brakes haha.
i sure hope you didnt drive on the street like this . . . . if so you sir are not cool in my book .
