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Dare I say it...Another 72 K5 build! The Bubba build - getting back into it

I really think you would be fine with that dude.

As you said, you don't go crazy, and a cage made of that is a million times better than no cage at all.

Will it work for multiple rolls? No, but I think you are smart enough to repair what did get messed up if you did roll it.
 
I really think you would be fine with that dude.

As you said, you don't go crazy, and a cage made of that is a million times better than no cage at all.

Will it work for multiple rolls? No, but I think you are smart enough to repair what did get messed up if you did roll it.


Why spend 2k on a cage and "Hope" that it works by using a material of lesser quality?

What's the life of a passenger worth to you? :dunno:
 
From all the reading I did on Pirate before I built mine, I came to, two conclusions.

1) A rig over 5k should have 2".

2) You can get away (safely) with 1.75 if you use DOM and it's a full tie in cage.


There is no way that a DOM cage is going to be 4x as much unless he is using steel (HREW?) that is $1.00 a foot.

I get my DOM 20' sticks for about $75-80. I just bought some HREW for a lumber rack and I think that it was about 60-65, or something like that.

It's not the tube that costs (although it is) it's the time and labor that costs on a cage.

I really wouldn't do anything on our rigs unless it was DOM, they just weight too much. Maybe some of the small stuff would be OK, but by that time you have so many little pieces left from the DOM that it's just not worth it.

Call some metal suppliers tomorrow and price the stuff out yourself. I would plan on 120' to start.

just my .02

Sounds good. I'll give him a call back and see what he can guesstimate as far as the cage that we talked about in DOM.

Do you think sliders/frame tie ins and passenger cage would be ok for now or will that let the front flex too much and hurt stuff up there with everything else stiffened? If I can forgo some of the work it'll save quite a bit of $$$ right now.
 
I don't really know...

Eric, Greg or Rene should really be in this conversation.

Maybe they'll chime in in the morning. I won't pull the trigger on anything until Monday at the earliest, so it should give time to get some good info in here. I really did want to do the cage myself, but time is not going to let that happen and I'm really not liking all the body flex with the new motor. I don't want the tub to get all wasted from being unsupported for the next couple years (even if it's not getting driven much/hard). I'm really not happy with any of my options, but I feel like paying this place to make a cage for me is my best option at this point.
 
Why spend 2k on a cage and "Hope" that it works by using a material of lesser quality?

What's the life of a passenger worth to you? :dunno:



But its not like lesser steel is PVC pipe or something.

It will still do the job of saving you if designed correctly :dunno:
 
Spend the $1500 and ship it to me. I'll build you one. The other 500 will go towards materials.


I'll also make sure that nothing gets all gummed up by sitting for the next couple of years for ya. :deal: :D


Man, I sure am a nice guy. :waytogo:
 
Spend the $1500 and ship it to me. I'll build you one. The other 500 will go towards materials.


I'll also make sure that nothing gets all gummed up by sitting for the next couple of years for ya. :deal: :D


Man, I sure am a nice guy. :waytogo:
It's pretty focked up how good of a deal that sounds like!:haha::haha:
 
But its not like lesser steel is PVC pipe or something.

It will still do the job of saving you if designed correctly :dunno:


Personally, it's worth the extra couple of bucks when I think about my kids being in the back seat.

You may have different thoughts on the matter though.. :dunno:
 
Personally, it's worth the extra couple of bucks when I think about my kids being in the back seat.

You may have different thoughts on the matter though.. :dunno:


True, if im about to do something totally retarded... Its going to be just me in the driver seat.
 
True, if im about to do something totally retarded... Its going to be just me in the driver seat.
Obviously I'm not any expert here but I think Deuling has a point. Anything too retarded and you're not going to have a bunch of people in the truck anyway and a lesser cage will keep you from dying doing anything you are likely to do it just probably wouldn't hold it's shape as well after a hit most likely.

Again, hopefully the experts chime in but it seems to me that the really stout cages most of the guys here are making are designed to be smacked around on the rocks multiple times from multiple angles without much deflection so they can just keep on smacking them on the next rock in the way. From my understanding of what you want, you just want it to keep you from dying if you roll it over and you'd be content to rebuild it if needed in that situation and the regular steel cage would do that.

someone smarter than me is sure to correct me here if I'm wrong though. :pimp:
 
You want my opinion?..... OK here goes.

A rollcage is a safety item, not a cosmetic or false-confidence item.

I never understand the comment that "I don't plan on rolling hard enough to need DOM" or such nonsense. None of us can predict the extent or severity of a rollover or crash in advance.... Nor can we negotiate for a smaller disaster because we "only built the cage with HREW". DOM is a stronger material and gives you a higher margin of safety when the unexpected happens. If you ever got seriously hurt (or hurt one of your passengers) I doubt it would be much comfort to know that you saved a few hundred bucks on tubing....personally, I'd want to know that I gave myself the best possible chance to escape without injury. :waytogo:

There are two objectives that I hear you talking about with this cage.... Protecting the soft, squishy occupants and stiffening the chassis. IMHO, protecting the occupants is the easier one.

Stiffening the chassis in a meaningful way will require you to build tie-ins to the frame in the engine compartment, not just underneath the cab. To improve torsional strength, you need long triangles from high spots on the cage down to the framerails...and you're going to need to "short-circuit" the flexible body mounts as well. You can't add stiffness to the frame if you've got a bunch of rubber or poly in the middle of your structure.

Look at how race car rollcages are built, especially the engine cradles and the way they tie in the upper rollcage to the frame near the rear axle. My guess is that your shop will want to do something similar if you insist on more stiffness. Maybe bring them a few photocopied images of your Blazer and ask them to draw where the tubes will go.... It's important to understand a bit more about where they plan to put tubes or you might be disappointed on the day you pick it back up (and give them a big check). It's possible that you are going to lose a lot of utility and seating area in the rear once they start dropping tubes in the places where they work best.

Keep in mind that having a safe, strong cage is street-driven vehicle can be a real hassle to live with. Climbing over cage bars, hitting your knees on them and the way they block access to things (like window cranks and glovebox doors) can really spoil your enjoyment of the truck.

At best, the cage will be a compromise between utility and function... If you go back and read my thread in the time period when I was building my cage I think you will see that I struggled with these tradeoffs quite a bit. You need to decide for yourself how radical you want the cage to get, and how much inconvenience you are willing to tolerate as a result.

-G
 
Greg, you hit the nail on the head with this one. I recognize that I need DOM now. I also get that there have to be compromises to retain streetability and functional torsional stiffness. My point is that I don't ever intend for this truck to be a hardcore wheeler. I never will be in the position Eric was when he flopped Horton because I value my truck more than conquering an obstacle. That said I recognize that you can't plan an accident, so you need to prepare for the unexpected...

I guess I just typed a bunch of rhetoric because I didn't get anywhere with it. :doah: I'll give the guy a call today and get an idea what to 6 point DOM cage with sliders and engine bars will run me. I can add more in the rear later.
 
I didn't build my rig for super hardcore, and I am not a lead foot when wheeling, However I built the cage for worst possible scenario, although I still need to add windshield bars and maybe a little more triangulation in a couple spots.

I do feel very comfortable knowing it is 2" DOM and all occupants seats are an integral part of the cage. If a multiple roll incident happens I wanted the best chance of protecting the passengers I could have.

Another option I would look at is supplying the metal yourself, so you know it is US made and up to spec, then pay the shop hourly for the labor. Just my thoughts after I had my first cage done. I was also very involved in the design of the cage using broomsticks, conduit, tape and anything else I could dream up.

PC010114.jpg

PC010112.jpg
 
I didn't build my rig for super hardcore, and I am not a lead foot when wheeling, However I built the cage for worst possible scenario, although I still need to add windshield bars and maybe a little more triangulation in a couple spots.

I do feel very comfortable knowing it is 2" DOM and all occupants seats are an integral part of the cage. If a multiple roll incident happens I wanted the best chance of protecting the passengers I could have.

Another option I would look at is supplying the metal yourself, so you know it is US made and up to spec, then pay the shop hourly for the labor. Just my thoughts after I had my first cage done. I was also very involved in the design of the cage using broomsticks, conduit, tape and anything else I could dream up.

A valid point. I'm going to call them in a few and see what they have to say.
 
A valid point. I'm going to call them in a few and see what they have to say.

70jimmy made a good point as well....

Insist on "domestic" steel (no Chinese crap) and if they supply the DOM for the project, ask them to get a copy of the ASTM certificate for the stuff you are getting (it's provided free by the manufacturer). My local steel supplier gave me the ASTM for my tubing when I bought it for my own cage. Little details like that let you know that you are getting quality materials for the cage and that's always good peace of mind.


-G
 
I really have no intention of getting stupid enough to ever need the cage for anything more than keeping the body from twisting apart.


I know it's at late post BUT need I remind you of your avatar picture:dunno:, And that was on flat ground. I know it was not you driving but you just never know.

If I remember right I paid right around a grand for my tubing and a another grand to my buddy who had the knowledge and bender, and I brought it home and did all the welding, and it's still not completely done
 
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