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Dare I say it...Another 72 K5 build! The Bubba build - getting back into it

some thread on pirate said:
4130 (seamless chromoly, usually about 4-times more expensive than HREW)
Tensile: 90 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi


DOM 1020
Tensile: 80 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi


HREW 1010
Tensile: 45 ksi
Yield point: 32 ksi

I couldn't find any real technical data but I think that gives you enough of a guideline to figure things out)

when I did the cage on my k5, I went with DOM, because it was only an extra like $100 overall, but depending on the market and location, I've heard of prices being almost double. could you get more tube with a cheaper type, yes. would it be just as strong if properly designed and built, probably.

but how much of a jungle gym do you want? if you could go with a less is more and a higher strength material to accomplish the same ends with a cleaner look...might be the way i'd go.

either way, price seems fair. I had $1000 into labor & materials on mine and it was only the front half... and that wasn't a shop that was in a garage.
 
I couldn't find any real technical data but I think that gives you enough of a guideline to figure things out)

when I did the cage on my k5, I went with DOM, because it was only an extra like $100 overall, but depending on the market and location, I've heard of prices being almost double. could you get more tube with a cheaper type, yes. would it be just as strong if properly designed and built, probably.

but how much of a jungle gym do you want? if you could go with a less is more and a higher strength material to accomplish the same ends with a cleaner look...might be the way i'd go.

either way, price seems fair. I had $1000 into labor & materials on mine and it was only the front half... and that wasn't a shop that was in a garage.
Good stuff, thanks. I'll call around and get prices on steel today.
 
hmmm, that is good info. I didn't realize the difference was as much as that. :eek1:

Anyone who's ever tried to bend DOM vs. HREW in a manual tubing bender will tell you they know which one is stronger.....

No lie, I bent 2" x .120" wall DOM in a manual bender many moons ago. I had an 8' breaker bar on the bender arm, and I was still grunting and struggling to swing that bar around my workshop. :eek1: That crap was hard to work with. Now with a pimpy hydro-bender I could simply watch the pressure gauge and see the difference in psi between HREW and DOM bends and not even break a sweat!!! :waytogo:


-G
 
hmmm, that is good info. I didn't realize the difference was as much as that. :eek1:
yup.
DOM generally has a higher carbon content over HREW, but it gets a lot of its strength from the process of the drawing over the mandrel, sort of like a tempering (heat treating) process which also helps with the strength.
 
obviously everyone that has been here any length of time knows I'm a noob, and know it so I appreciate when those in the know are willing to set me straight.

I knew that DOM was stronger, but I thought it was more along the lines of the difference between 4130 and DOM. I didn't expect double the strength. Glad I have the info now. :)
 
obviously everyone that has been here any length of time knows I'm a noob, and know it so I appreciate when those in the know are willing to set me straight.

I knew that DOM was stronger, but I thought it was more along the lines of the difference between 4130 and DOM. I didn't expect double the strength. Glad I have the info now. :)

Same here dude.

Called them and said I wanted the cage done. Said I wanted DOM. They don't stock much tubing, so he recommended that I call and price out some from local suppliers and he told me who he usually uses. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to call them because I was busy with other stuff. Sounds like I'll be able to drop it off in the next week or two. Yay for spending more money!

On a side note, the dude that was supposed to buy my smallblock finally told me he just can't swing it right now, so it's back up on craigslist. If I can dump that, the TPI intake and heads and the extra 454 (spoken for by TerryD) then I'll be in pretty decent shape.

blew out the header gaskets in the truck yesterday. Went back to summit today and got some aluminum ones that will hopefully take care of the problem. Might need to pull the headers and cut the flanges too. The bolts seem to come loose SUPER easy with these. Add it to the list...:doah:
 
Stage-8 locking header bolts......

Impossible to come loose until you want them to. Summit (your home away from home) sells them. :deal:

I think the other trick is to use a softer (semi-metallic?), thicker header gasket and DON'T crank the bolts down super hard. With those Stage-8 locks you don't have to overtighten stuff to keep it from loosening up. Using reasonable torque on the bolts keeps the flanges from distorting and should cure leaks or gasket blowouts....

-G
 
Stage-8 locking header bolts......

Impossible to come loose until you want them to. Summit (your home away from home) sells them. :deal:

I think the other trick is to use a softer (semi-metallic?), thicker header gasket and DON'T crank the bolts down super hard. With those Stage-8 locks you don't have to overtighten stuff to keep it from loosening up. Using reasonable torque on the bolts keeps the flanges from distorting and should cure leaks or gasket blowouts....

-G
Right on, I'll look those up and swing out there again in the next couple days. I swear, my wife is amazing for putting up with my stupid a$$... :haha:
 
I've had great luck with the aluminum header gaskets. Also the aluminum collector flange gaskets work great
 
Well hopefully I'll pick up those (really expensive) bolts and be good to go with the new aluminum gaskets...
 
Got the new bolts and exhaust gaskets put in yesterday. So far so good. Then went to put on different valve cover gaskets because both were leaking at the rear corners. I knew I had a couple spark plug boots that had been burned on the headers so picked up new boots and protectors too. Pulled off my #1 and it ripped the wire in half where it had been against the header and I didn't see it:doah: So I made a late night trip to summit to spend more money last night. But instead of buying a single wire, they were out of them, so I had to buy a whole set... FML.

Got everything buttoned up today and it seems to be running a lot better now.

Next on the list is tracking down what I expect to be a grounding issue with my new front parking lamps. The passenger side is dimmer than the left, and my fender lamp is out all together on that side.

Checked and DOM is only $200 more than plain steel, so that's even better news. Now they just need to call me and tell me to bring it down...

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I haven't watched this on anything but the phone, but figured it might come out alright. I really like this exhaust sound.
 
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Sounds raunchy.... I like it!

I found a valve cover gasket set that is reusable. They are rubber with a steel sleeve at each bolt hole to prevent over tightening. Maybe Fel-pro? They came from Summit too.... A little more pricey than the single-use cork ones but you'll never buy them again.

I can lookup the part # for you if your wallet is getting too heavy. :D

-G
 
Sounds raunchy.... I like it!

I found a valve cover gasket set that is reusable. They are rubber with a steel sleeve at each bolt hole to prevent over tightening. Maybe Fel-pro? They came from Summit too.... A little more pricey than the single-use cork ones but you'll never buy them again.

I can lookup the part # for you if your wallet is getting too heavy. :D

-G
Let's see how the steel core cork ones I just put in hold up. If I need it I'll come calling. I was looking for those, but didn't find them for bbc, and was tired and wanted to get home before dark and get that plug wire back on in the event it needed to be moved... Hopefully I'll be good on valve cover gaskets for a little while anyways.
 
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