I know it's at late post BUT need I remind you of your avatar picture, And that was on flat ground. I know it was not you driving but you just never know.
True story!
I know it's at late post BUT need I remind you of your avatar picture, And that was on flat ground. I know it was not you driving but you just never know.
Besides when we all meet for the 1st Gen 50TH B-Day at Moab you might need it more than you think

Me too but when you play SOMETIMES you gotta pay the taxes
some thread on pirate said:4130 (seamless chromoly, usually about 4-times more expensive than HREW)
Tensile: 90 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
DOM 1020
Tensile: 80 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
HREW 1010
Tensile: 45 ksi
Yield point: 32 ksi
Good stuff, thanks. I'll call around and get prices on steel today.I couldn't find any real technical data but I think that gives you enough of a guideline to figure things out)
when I did the cage on my k5, I went with DOM, because it was only an extra like $100 overall, but depending on the market and location, I've heard of prices being almost double. could you get more tube with a cheaper type, yes. would it be just as strong if properly designed and built, probably.
but how much of a jungle gym do you want? if you could go with a less is more and a higher strength material to accomplish the same ends with a cleaner look...might be the way i'd go.
either way, price seems fair. I had $1000 into labor & materials on mine and it was only the front half... and that wasn't a shop that was in a garage.
hmmm, that is good info. I didn't realize the difference was as much as that.I couldn't find any real technical data but I think that gives you enough of a guideline to figure things out)

hmmm, that is good info. I didn't realize the difference was as much as that.![]()
That crap was hard to work with. Now with a pimpy hydro-bender I could simply watch the pressure gauge and see the difference in psi between HREW and DOM bends and not even break a sweat!!! 
yup.hmmm, that is good info. I didn't realize the difference was as much as that.![]()

obviously everyone that has been here any length of time knows I'm a noob, and know it so I appreciate when those in the know are willing to set me straight.
I knew that DOM was stronger, but I thought it was more along the lines of the difference between 4130 and DOM. I didn't expect double the strength. Glad I have the info now.![]()


Right on, I'll look those up and swing out there again in the next couple days. I swear, my wife is amazing for putting up with my stupid a$$...Stage-8 locking header bolts......
Impossible to come loose until you want them to. Summit (your home away from home) sells them.
I think the other trick is to use a softer (semi-metallic?), thicker header gasket and DON'T crank the bolts down super hard. With those Stage-8 locks you don't have to overtighten stuff to keep it from loosening up. Using reasonable torque on the bolts keeps the flanges from distorting and should cure leaks or gasket blowouts....
-G

So I made a late night trip to summit to spend more money last night. But instead of buying a single wire, they were out of them, so I had to buy a whole set... FML.

Let's see how the steel core cork ones I just put in hold up. If I need it I'll come calling. I was looking for those, but didn't find them for bbc, and was tired and wanted to get home before dark and get that plug wire back on in the event it needed to be moved... Hopefully I'll be good on valve cover gaskets for a little while anyways.Sounds raunchy.... I like it!
I found a valve cover gasket set that is reusable. They are rubber with a steel sleeve at each bolt hole to prevent over tightening. Maybe Fel-pro? They came from Summit too.... A little more pricey than the single-use cork ones but you'll never buy them again.
I can lookup the part # for you if your wallet is getting too heavy.
-G