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Dare I say it...Another 72 K5 build! The Bubba build - getting back into it

Snoozer said:
Pinch Lock Nuts, a.k.a. "Crimp" nuts. (NOT "nylock" nuts).
You can get these at Ace Hardware. I've started using these on nearly everything, and nothing has come loose when I torque them down to spec. Offroad Design provides these on just about everything they sell. They work! They're simple. And you don't have to pour locktite on them. (although I do sometimes anyway). :waytogo:

The '71/72 grille hanging over your door...... priceless. :usaflag:
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Yeah, they're definitely worth using. Unfortunately it wouldn't have mattered, the bolts are threaded directly into the driveshafts. But they're locktited good this time!

The grille is the one I pulled off of it. Supports are toasted, but it was perfect for a decoration.
 
"...threaded directly into the driveshafts" :confused:. My driveshafts are 1350 flanges at both ends of the transfer case, but are regular-'ole yoke strapped at the diffs. At the t-case end, my bolts pass through the mating CV flanges using grade 8 with Pinch Lock nuts, without issue. My point is, I think it might have mattered. But now that you have locktite on them, it doesn't, as long as the bolt shanks are up to the task. :D

Glad to hear you "repurposed" the hashed classic grille for wall art. :saweet:
 
Snoozer said:
"...threaded directly into the driveshafts" :confused:. My driveshafts are 1350 flanges at both ends of the transfer case, but are regular-'ole yoke strapped at the diffs. At the t-case end, my bolts pass through the mating CV flanges using grade 8 with Pinch Lock nuts, without issue. My point is, I think it might have mattered. But now that you have locktite on them, it doesn't, as long as the bolt shanks are up to the task. :D

Glad to hear you "repurposed" the hashed classic grille for wall art. :saweet:
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The bolts pass through the flange on the transfer case and thread directly into the tapped flange on the driveshafts (high angle driveline). So there's no nut to use on that end. There are nuts on the u-bolts at the axle end, but they were tight. Either way, all are snug and locktited now.
 
Z71paramedic said:
The bolts pass through the flange on the transfer case and thread directly into the tapped flange on the driveshafts (high angle driveline). So there's no nut to use on that end. There are nuts on the u-bolts at the axle end, but they were tight. Either way, all are snug and locktited now.
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My flanges are threaded/tapped as well. I now use longer bolts that allow me to attach a pinch lock nut on the other side. I did this on the stock front driveshaft flanges as well. Before, it only took one "mild" wheeling trip to loosen the stock driveshaft bolts. My theory is that the driveshaft angle of my 10" lift loosened them up in short order. So I ditched those nutless bolts, bought some longer grade 8 ones, and pinch-lock nuts. No probs since.
 
Snoozer said:
My flanges are threaded/tapped as well. I now use longer bolts that allow me to attach a pinch lock nut on the other side. I did this on the stock front driveshaft flanges as well. Before, it only took one "mild" wheeling trip to loosen the stock driveshaft bolts. My theory is that the driveshaft angle of my 10" lift loosened them up in short order. So I ditched those nutless bolts, bought some longer grade 8 ones, and pinch-lock nuts. No probs since.
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Ahh, I'm tracking now. I never had trouble before, but that said I barely have the new motor broken in, so maybe that had something to do with it. May have to look into it.
 
Snoozer said:
My flanges are threaded/tapped as well. I now use longer bolts that allow me to attach a pinch lock nut on the other side. I did this on the stock front driveshaft flanges as well. Before, it only took one "mild" wheeling trip to loosen the stock driveshaft bolts. My theory is that the driveshaft angle of my 10" lift loosened them up in short order. So I ditched those nutless bolts, bought some longer grade 8 ones, and pinch-lock nuts. No probs since.
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I did this as well, after 3 out of the 4 bolts that held the driveshaft to the flange backed out and the last one was a C-hair from letting go....
 
I had the same issue with my front CV shaft coming loose at the flange on the last trip out, lost one bolt and the other three were backed halfway out. I was going to try nylock nuts but these locking flange nuts look like a better idea.

and DIY4X uses those same nuts with most of his products.
 
Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me. Losing a front shaft on the trail brings the suck.
 
Deuling said:
Tbh I've never had a nylock fall off...
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I second that. I use them on everything including lots of high vibration applications. But I know you are not supposed tof reuse them over and over and over. Loose their effectiveness I guess.
 
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