how do you run a cv shaft with my tcase output yoke? Can you remove the flange from the front of the cv shaft and just put the u joint in the tcase yoke?
CK5
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Destroyed the rear drive shaft
- Thread starter HawK5
- Start date
Why not? I've seen it before. Doesn't seem weird or sketchy.
There are some options for getting a C/V on there. What I did was to use an OEM NP208 front output flange on both outputs of my T-case (32 spline). It uses 3.125" pilot and 4.25" bolt circle, which is not compatible with the Super Duty shafts that have the small pilot hole. You can also swap the front of the C/V joint to match your T-case.
See this thread: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ford-super-duty-drive-shaft.336467/
See this thread: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ford-super-duty-drive-shaft.336467/
So is it possible to remove the front flange from the CV joint and just put the u joint right in my transfer case hole? They’re both 1350 u joints?
No. The C/V joint is not just 2 U-joints. It has a centering ball, which is attached to the flange and tube yoke. It's Constant Velocity because the elliptical orbits of the 2 U-joints cancel out. You can visualize what would happen given all those degrees of freedom...
I figured it couldn’t be that easy.. thanks for the guidance.
Now I'll be the first to admit if I'm wrong. I'll admit the idea of using the yoke was simply an alternative that should be considered. I'll admit my memory could be based off a dream I had. 
So when I go looking and find something...that might back my fever dream...and post it...it's not an "I gotcha" moment....it's more "ok, it's real, not sure if it actually helps the OP or not"
If it works, FREAKING GREAT, and if it doesn't....well bummer I tried to help
From Tom Woods Driveshafts
So when I go looking and find something...that might back my fever dream...and post it...it's not an "I gotcha" moment....it's more "ok, it's real, not sure if it actually helps the OP or not"
If it works, FREAKING GREAT, and if it doesn't....well bummer I tried to help
From Tom Woods Driveshafts
thats a early style c/v head and has more limits than newer 4 bolt flange . also they take a yoke that looks like regular but not the same last i remember . but i have played with flat flange 4 bolt most of my time in these trucks . and the small time i run one of these them little 4 bolts SUCKED A$$ to work with .Now I'll be the first to admit if I'm wrong. I'll admit the idea of using the yoke was simply an alternative that should be considered. I'll admit my memory could be based off a dream I had.
So when I go looking and find something...that might back my fever dream...and post it...it's not an "I gotcha" moment....it's more "ok, it's real, not sure if it actually helps the OP or not"
If it works, FREAKING GREAT, and if it doesn't....well bummer I tried to help
From Tom Woods Driveshafts
View attachment 507113
View attachment 507114
Well I found a guy with a running 100k mile 2015 F350 4x4 6.7 diesel front drive shaft. He’s a private auto part harvester, mostly sells on eBay but happens to be local, said they sell on eBay for $250-$300, but he’ll deliver it for $200! Seems like a great deal!
He also had a few earlier shafts he said he’d do for a $100 but I’d rather have a 10 year old shaft instead of 20 year old..
He also had a few earlier shafts he said he’d do for a $100 but I’d rather have a 10 year old shaft instead of 20 year old..
does the t-case yoke come on and off for the flange easy? Just take the nut off and swap them in them truck?
For the rear yoke, I see the Great Lakes caps are $80, but the straps are $10, part of me wonders if it’s good to have a weak link, especially bc it wasn’t the initial failure point, it failed when the ruff stuff pinion guard dug into the drive shift from the axle wrap?
I can get an advance adaptor cast yoke shipped w/ tax for $90.. BUT maybe I’m out of line and just need to cough up the dough for forged with the good caps?
For the rear yoke, I see the Great Lakes caps are $80, but the straps are $10, part of me wonders if it’s good to have a weak link, especially bc it wasn’t the initial failure point, it failed when the ruff stuff pinion guard dug into the drive shift from the axle wrap?
I can get an advance adaptor cast yoke shipped w/ tax for $90.. BUT maybe I’m out of line and just need to cough up the dough for forged with the good caps?
205 yokes are straight spline . not tapered like 14ff rear units.
advanced adapters does NOT support this page good or bad . . offroad design has been here for ever . . . please chose to support our vendors and keep this page going .
advanced adapters does NOT support this page good or bad . . offroad design has been here for ever . . . please chose to support our vendors and keep this page going .
If you look at the details of those Tom Woods sites, you'll see that the 1350 C/V yoke is not the same as a standard 1350 yoke. With a standard yoke, the bolts go into the transfer case side. With a C/V, the bolts go into the driveshaft. With this style, this is the piece that holds the centering ball:Now I'll be the first to admit if I'm wrong. I'll admit the idea of using the yoke was simply an alternative that should be considered. I'll admit my memory could be based off a dream I had.
So when I go looking and find something...that might back my fever dream...and post it...it's not an "I gotcha" moment....it's more "ok, it's real, not sure if it actually helps the OP or not"
If it works, FREAKING GREAT, and if it doesn't....well bummer I tried to help
From Tom Woods Driveshafts
View attachment 507113
View attachment 507114
Now swapping that piece into a Super Duty C/V...it seems unlikely, but who knows? If you have to get a different T-case output yoke regardless, you might as well just match it to whatever driveshaft you want to run.
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My mistake!! Did not realize this and will be sure to support the vendors who support us!
You can swap the yoke for a flange on t case easy.
The ford super duty has a small pilot ring and uses a smaller nut than the normal np205 out put yoke. Be sure to buy the nut with the flange. You will also need the ford metric bolts.
The ford super duty has a small pilot ring and uses a smaller nut than the normal np205 out put yoke. Be sure to buy the nut with the flange. You will also need the ford metric bolts.
So I just got my SD shaft delivered for $150 I’m wondering if I need to have its length changed, on level ground at ride height I’m measuring 42.5 from cL yoke to cL yoke, the drive shaft sits at 41.25 but extends by hand to 42.75, and collapse down 39.25. I’m wondering if swapping from the yoke to flange on the t case will shorten that at all, or since I have to replace the pinion yoke, it seems like they might come in different variations of length?
This adaptor is threaded and so is flange side of the SD shaft.. I need one with just bare holes..
NP205 / Atlas Transfer Case Flange, Driveshaft Companion Flange, 32 Sp
1310/1350/1410 series flange can be used with CV or non-CV drive line flange yokes. Works with any 32 spline output shaft in the front or rear of a transfer case by using the correct 2-1/8" ID seal. 32 spline output shafts are commonly found in Atlas, GM HD, and NP205 transfer cases. The...www.partsmike.com
I drilled out the flange, and bolted from t case side to sd flange. If I were to do it over I think Id drill the sd flange, after checking bolt head clearance
Yeah it looks like there’s enough clearance for the bolt head in the CV shaft.. what would be the reason to do that? I think I’d be more likely to break the SD shaft than the flange? Meaning if I broke one on road trip or something and had to find one to drive it home, if I found one in a wrecking yard I could bolt it in? I know it’s low likelihood.. just trying to decide if I’m gonna drill one out, which one would make more sense?
It is just a little tight to install the bolts from the t case side. Not impossible, you do have a valid point. My shaft is custom at 63"+ long so I am not sourcing a sd shaft in the bone yard and driving home.
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From length perspective, i’m sure you can find a 1” driveshaft spacer, so that you could use the stock length shaft and easily source one. The spacer would hurt angle in a tradition shaft but with CV it would be non issue. Making sure you get a quality spacer with the bolts going all the way through the flange would be key.
Something like this:
Personally, I would have shaft modified to proper length. You lose the off the shelf availability, but perhaps you have the spacer in travel bag in case you need to limp it home.
Something like this:
Amazon.com: RealTruck SUPERLIFT SUSPENSION Drive Shaft Spacer for Chevy/GMC 1/2 & 3/4 Tons | 4310 | Fits 1973-1987 Chevrolet/GMC 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Vehicles 4WD Vehicles : Automotive
Buy RealTruck SUPERLIFT SUSPENSION Drive Shaft Spacer for Chevy/GMC 1/2 & 3/4 Tons | 4310 | Fits 1973-1987 Chevrolet/GMC 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Vehicles 4WD Vehicles: Wheel Adapters & Spacers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Personally, I would have shaft modified to proper length. You lose the off the shelf availability, but perhaps you have the spacer in travel bag in case you need to limp it home.
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