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Deulings 1985 K5 Blazer, --aka Borderline Obnoxious; Silver Lake pics and Vids

Well this is just bonerific!!!:woot:

I realize im a pic whore, GET OVER IT!!! :haha:




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He mentioned something about ARP studs or something, It sounds good :rolleyes:

Nice pics DUDE!! Nice SL pics too.

I have to ask to possibly prevent a headache for you. Where are set screws that go in the poly locks? (the rocker arm nuts). If poly locs are ran without the locking set screws they will loosen up and fall apart.

The engine looks good!
 
Well the problem was it was after 6 so the bank was closed, and tomorrow the bank is only open from 9-12 and Im leaving here at 7 am to go get it lol. But I found out if you go to another banks atm and pay the 3 dollar charge you can take out as much as you want:thumb: I now have 900 in 20s stuffed in my ninja turtles wallet, No it does not come even close to closing lol

Edit: Are you guys as excited as I am about getting my new motor tomorrow!!!??? If you say no I no longer like you...:haha:
:haha::haha::haha::haha:

Adam, I blew water on my screen when I read that.....you funny fockin' guy you, just perfect....only Adam:waytogo:

Nice pics DUDE!! Nice SL pics too.

I have to ask to possibly prevent a headache for you. Where are set screws that go in the poly locks? (the rocker arm nuts). If poly locs are ran without the locking set screws they will loosen up and fall apart.

The engine looks good!


I'm guessing they're laying on the bench waiting for a valve adjustment....looks like they are all very loose.
 
The set screws are in them, they just go down a bit more than that angle picture shows If you look at the far right one you can just see the side of the hex head in their. And dave I hope nothings loose!!! Lol he said it was all set to go :whistle:

(PS my wallet is much smaller now, it makes my back hurt less when sitting on it, but my bank account is really pissed :thumb:)
 
Dam Adam, it don't look like any of the valves are open in your pic...you should have some valves open if its ready to go....check that out further or it'll never fire.
 
Well look at the lifters on the other side, one up on each cylinder one down.... I think this is an odd angle throwing much too much off lol.
 
the lifters will move with the cam, but if the nut on the rocker isn't set properly it could not move the valve to open....just turn it over one revollution to see what the valves are doing.
 
the lifters will move with the cam, but if the nut on the rocker isn't set properly it could not move the valve to open....just turn it over one revollution to see what the valves are doing.

Ok will do, I should be downt their for a bit tomorrow, I gotta put the fuel pump on and the Oil filter adapter from the 305, and I will check that.
 
Does anybody have a link to a stall converter for my 700R4. The tag on tranny says its an 86, so somewhere along the line a newer tranny was put in, and I beleive thats a 27 spline correct?? A buddy told me I should look for a 2000 or a 2500 stall, but I cant find one thats not for a 30... I feel retarted lol
 
Does anybody have a link to a stall converter for my 700R4. The tag on tranny says its an 86, so somewhere along the line a newer tranny was put in, and I beleive thats a 27 spline correct?? A buddy told me I should look for a 2000 or a 2500 stall, but I cant find one thats not for a 30... I feel retarted lol

27 spline is the output shaft, the converter spline is for the input shaft. If it's for a 700R4 you are probably fine. You will probably want to keep the lockup function. And if you every plan to tow anything, don't get a stall converter.

What are your exact cam specs? The converter should match your vehicle combo, and the cam is one of the most important matches.

Also, if those set screws are that far down into the poly lock, you very well might have too short of pushrods. That is just odd, it doesn't even look like you have enough thread engagement. You might want to do a google search or look for Daves posts on rocker geometry to check yours.
 
Yes and no about the 27 spline count. All TH700R4's have a 27 spline output shafts. The early TH700R4's (1986 and earlier) also have 27 spline input shafts. 1987 and later TH700R4's have a larger 30 spline input shaft among other upgrades.

I do however agree that you don't want or need a higher stall torque converter.

Martin
 
Yes and no about the 27 spline count. All TH700R4's have a 27 spline output shafts. The early TH700R4's (1986 and earlier) also have 27 spline input shafts. 1987 and later TH700R4's have a larger 30 spline input shaft among other upgrades.

I do however agree that you don't want or need a higher stall torque converter.

Martin

Good info on the input shafts, thanks.
 
is it possible that its from the lifters not being pumped up since theres no oil in it. I may be totally ignorant to how they work also, I've never built a motor or adjusted a valvetrain.:dunno: I'm just going on what I've picked up on mags and conversations. feel free to verbally beat me down if I'm stupid:thumb: I'll learn from it
 
Yea, before adjusting the lifter (which are clearly have not been) make sure you add oil and pump up the oil pressure. I pumped mine up with an old flat head screw driver with the handle busted off. Put end in my drill and pumped it up. If you don't do this before adjusting your rockers you will burn the cam on start up.
 
Adam, you can adjust them by loosening them up (which it looks like they are already) then do the wiggle method...With the piston on the firing stroke TDC, make sure you can wiggle the pushrod at the rocker arm, do not force it down into the lifter, just let is set in the seat of the lifter, then adjust the nut until the pushrod is no longer able to wiggle on the rocker arm end, then tighten 1/2 turn. This will get the engine running and they can be more finely tuned when the lifters are pumped up.
If the do not have oil in them now, when you pressurize the oil pump, you can keep spinning the drill and have someone turn the engine over by hand to allow the oil galleys to fill the lifters.
then set your timing and fire it up.
 
Engine looking good, I am also building an engine like this. Some time when you are down to Dave's again, (hopefully my truck will be done by then) We can compare note.:rolleyes:
 
Turn it over so the lifters for any given cylinder are on the base circle of the cam, there is zero lift on the base circle, and see how loose the pushrods are.

There should be some drag on them when you spin them, and they shouldnt be able to move up and down at all if valve lash is set correctly.
 
Well dang now im all worried about the thing. Ill check when I get down to the shop next. Prolly wont be till friday night. Spent the whole day building a massive 2 stall garage with my uncle who is a builder. Crazy hot out and I was way to tired to stop by the shop after 10 hours of that. (And my lady said I could get a back massage lol, so I kinda rushed home :thumb:).

I did get a little surprise from summit when I got home however.... I ordered the stuff monday at like 6pm and got it sometime before 5 today, I love summit because they always get my stuff here way earlier than I expect :thumb:

Got 3 gal of 15w40 Royal Purple
5 quarts of royal purple break in oil
1 motor mount (Already had one my dad had laying around in the garage he never used... No Idea why their was only one lol)
1 EMP/Stewart 180 high performance Thermostat
2 Pipes Violator Stainless Steel life time warranty mufflers
And 3 Wix Oil filters.

I figured while I was paying for shipping on the oil I would get enough to do the break in and have enough for 2 oil changes.
And yes I did spend $139 on oil, you got problem with that?? Didnt think so lol

As some of you know, i very much like opening boxes.. IT WAS LIKE XMAS!!! haha

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How about a pic of the openings in the muffs, inside the case...getting close! And don't worry about the valve adjustments, it is easily corrected, nothing to worry about.
 

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