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Deuling's 1985 K5. "Restart thread on post #8415"

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folkenheath said:
You have a TIG welder and you glued the pickup on?

If you caught that much debris in your oil filter I think I would be replacing the pump, but if you had it apart you saw the gears I guess. If you don't have your bypass blocked some probably got through, I hope your bearings are OK. You said you were going to check those right?

Holy cow I've never seen a fuel pump crack like that. Did it hit something or just crack over time? Glad you got some use out of it.

Your blazer is bad@$$ Adam.
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It is a brand spanky new Melling oil pump.

Yeah, I was gonna tig weld it, but I didn't know how the cast would weld to the pickup tube.... So we will see.

I had put a new oil filter in it, the day that it broke (I have been putting a new filter on before dune trips, normally one or 2 trips and I do a filter and add a qt). I cut it apart and got some debris and hoping it caught most of it before sending it elsewhere.

I was going to check the bearings, but to be honest, with all the sand everywhere, I felt pulling all of the caps may end up doing more harm then good, and end up getting junk in there. Maybe if I wasn't laying on my back and had pulled the motor.... But I just don't have time for that right now. My plasma table will be here in about a month, and the whole shop needs re arranged and a ton of cleaning done.

It runs smooth and has 35psi of oil pressure at 600 rpm idle at operating temp, and I don't hear any knocking so Ill take it as a win.
 
It goes straight to my butt.


What else is planned for the winter fixit program?
 
bent72 said:
It goes straight to my butt.


What else is planned for the winter fixit program?
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I was going to do a rebuild on the 208. But after looking into pricing, I asked my new favorite "parts guy buddy" and he has a 50k mile 208 out of an elderly woman owned rig for $50. New input and output seals and I should be good to go there.

He also has a 700r4 that was built to the moon, installed in a rig and it had one trail run. Then the owner did a drivetrain swap for ls/4l60 etc.
He told me $500 for the pair. So I will pick those up, and box up that trans for a rainy day. Be nice to have a solid built spare to swap in, especially if @sponsoredbydad is coming out this summer for dunefest.


Other than tcase swap, I would like to try my hand at valving the shocks. And other than that, change all fluids/filters and have it greased and ready to go come dune season.
 
Deuling said:
I was going to do a rebuild on the 208. But after looking into pricing, I asked my new favorite "parts guy buddy" and he has a 50k mile 208 out of an elderly woman owned rig for $50. New input and output seals and I should be good to go there.

He also has a 700r4 that was built to the moon, installed in a rig and it had one trail run. Then the owner did a drivetrain swap for ls/4l60 etc.
He told me $500 for the pair. So I will pick those up, and box up that trans for a rainy day. Be nice to have a solid built spare to swap in, especially if @sponsoredbydad is coming out this summer for dunefest.


Other than tcase swap, I would like to try my hand at valving the shocks. And other than that, change all fluids/filters and have it greased and ready to go come dune season.
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Awesomeness
 
Deuling said:
It is a brand spanky new Melling oil pump.

Yeah, I was gonna tig weld it, but I didn't know how the cast would weld to the pickup tube.... So we will see.

I had put a new oil filter in it, the day that it broke (I have been putting a new filter on before dune trips, normally one or 2 trips and I do a filter and add a qt). I cut it apart and got some debris and hoping it caught most of it before sending it elsewhere.

I was going to check the bearings, but to be honest, with all the sand everywhere, I felt pulling all of the caps may end up doing more harm then good, and end up getting junk in there. Maybe if I wasn't laying on my back and had pulled the motor.... But I just don't have time for that right now. My plasma table will be here in about a month, and the whole shop needs re arranged and a ton of cleaning done.

It runs smooth and has 35psi of oil pressure at 600 rpm idle at operating temp, and I don't hear any knocking so Ill take it as a win.
Click to expand...

Ah, glad you got the new pump, good to hear. I didn't catch that part, I can't keep up with the whole thread. ;)

I am glad you can just run it, I hope with a brand new filter that it was flowing enough you are good, props to you for the good maintenance. That would bother me too much to just run it knowing the bypass is there(I usually tap them NPT and block them for peace of mind), but if you can do it then have at it, I hope it gives you seasons more fun!
 
folkenheath said:
Ah, glad you got the new pump, good to hear. I didn't catch that part, I can't keep up with the whole thread. ;)

I am glad you can just run it, I hope with a brand new filter that it was flowing enough you are good, props to you for the good maintenance. That would bother me too much to just run it knowing the bypass is there(I usually tap them NPT and block them for peace of mind), but if you can do it then have at it, I hope it gives you seasons more fun!
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I did not know there was a bypass...
 
Here is a regular bypass and a plugged one. Its in the filter adaptor. If the filter can't flow enough it bypasses the filter to maintain oil pressure. If you have good maintenance (like you do), you can tap and plug the bypass valve. But if the filter ever gets plugged, then you will lose oil pressure.

Its good it was a fresh filter, that means its less likely any debris bypassed the filter.

If you want, next time you change the filter, unbolt the adaptor with the two bolts and then plug the bypass and reinstall. Then there won't be one.

1412.jpg
 
Same. I never blocked those personally, although as mentioned good maintenance should render it unnecessary.

Never an issue with trash going through a healthy engine. One coming apart, I would want it to bypass the filter to get enough pressure through the engine to make it home
 
bent72 said:
Same. I never blocked those personally, although as mentioned good maintenance should render it unnecessary.

Never an issue with trash going through a healthy engine. One coming apart, I would want it to bypass the filter to get enough pressure through the engine to make it home
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The 6.2 rigs have 2 outputs. One to the engine and one to the oil cooler. On the oil cooler line there is a pressure-regulating check valve. So the oil only circulates through the cooling loop when the pressure is sufficient. I'm not sure what the third pinhole is, it might be that these engines also have a filter bypass in addition to the cooler bypass.

imgp8400-jpg.208601


imgp4105-jpg.203695
 
Wow Adam you are way better with oil filter maintenance than I am. I'm still on the same oil and filter since Dunefest last year :doah:
Then again I'm not constantly running in the sand. Besides if my engine blows up, excuse for LS swap. Damn maybe I should have run the dunes with my valve covers off... :whistle:
 
Chevy305 said:
Wow Adam you are way better with oil filter maintenance than I am. I'm still on the same oil and filter since Dunefest last year :doah:
Then again I'm not constantly running in the sand. Besides if my engine blows up, excuse for LS swap. Damn maybe I should have run the dunes with my valve covers off... :whistle:
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Wix filter and a qt of royal purple is like $18.

I already toss a Benjamin to the wind every time I head up there for gas and snacks, so whats another $18... lol
 
mrk5 said:
Interesting, wonder if the same holds true on a 454?
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Yes, it uses the same oil filter and I think the same filter adaptor. I have plugged them in big blocks. Or you can buy blocked filter adaptors that bolt right on if you don't feel like tapping and plugging the stock one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-ofa65

CVS-OFA65_ml.jpg


bent72 said:
Same. I never blocked those personally, although as mentioned good maintenance should render it unnecessary.

Never an issue with trash going through a healthy engine. One coming apart, I would want it to bypass the filter to get enough pressure through the engine to make it home
Click to expand...

Its not about trash on a healthy engine, its about normal wear and tear that produces minuscule particles, all the "paste" that you find on a magnet in a regular oil change. Part of this stuff gets recirculated when it bypasses the filter. If you block the bypass, you get 100% filtration. And if your oil is so dirty your oil filter is plugged, and your engine is on the fritz, and you make it home, you probably just destroyed the crank, or a rod, or worse. I would rather stop and save it for a rebiuld. But if its just the filter plugged, I carry a spare, problem solved.

I will say this to anyhone who decides to block the oil filter bypass. Do not run a fram filter. You may quickly see how junk they are once there is no way for the oil to bypass it. There has been bypass blocked engines with brand new fram filters that have zero oil pressure because the new fram filter media is so cheap it plugs itself sometimes. So stick with a good filter, AC Delco, Mobil 1, Wix, etc.

I always carry a spare just in case but so far I haven't needed it (knock on wood). But I change my oil once a year and only drive the truck a couple thousand miles a year or less and I run Mobil 1 oil with a Mobil 1 or AC Delco filter.
 
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Royal Purple 10w40 and Wix filters here.

I talked to the RP rep at power tour, and he said to run the 10w40 as they can get away with adding way more zinc additives in it than the 10w30 etc.
 
Interesting. I was looking at running 5w30 Royal Purple but the HPS for the higher zinc content. Are you running the standard RP?
 
mrk5 said:
Interesting. I was looking at running 5w30 Royal Purple but the HPS for the higher zinc content. Are you running the standard RP?
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Just the standard. He claimed that the 10w40 was closer to a heavy duty oil like 15w40 so it had less restrictions for some reason.
 
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