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Died, won't start. TBI *fixed*

VitaminC

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Okay guys, I'm making this post with the intention of a "fixed" thread title in order to help someone else.

87 Jimmy, TBI 350, 700r4, 208.

Well....... Driving home from work yesterday, 10 minutes into driving, she just shut off. Would crank and crank, but no fire. I thought i was out of gas, i wasnt. Towed it home (after a nice conv. with an officer with the personality of a white crayon).

At home I put a flashlight on it and had my gf crank it. No fuel through the injectors. Threw a known good ignition module in it, no change. Put a noid light on injector wires and got a solid signal from all 4 of them. Had her crank it with the light on the injectors... no pulse. Strange, but I'm a noob and I need to do some more reading.

So I worked my way back through the fuel system, probably wrong but f-it. Pulled the filter, and it still had some pressure in the lines. I was able to blow through it as well. Without a filter I had the gf crank the truck, the trickle of fuel out of the lines (tank side) did not change. I figured if the pump was still good, a bunch of fuel would have rolled out. It's been my thought for months that the fuel tank needs inspected anyway so I went to work on the strap bolts (very stubborn btw).

The tank isn't all the way down, like I said, stubborn. I remember reading that the fuel pump needs a signal (obviously). But I can't remember exactly where the relay gets it. I know that the oil pressure sensor can send it if the relay fails. But what originally does? Distributor's Pick-up coil?

I plan on hot-wiring the relay's pigtail tonight to see if the pump responds that way.

All thoughts and opinions appreciated.

Cody
 
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If you unplug the wire harness for the gas tank (located on the driver's side next to the frame rail just in front of the tank) you can operate the pump from that plug. The gray wire is the power to the pump and the purple wire is for the sending unit. If you connect a 12V supply to the gray wire and ground to any metal part, the pump will operate.
As for those stubborn strap bolts, use some PB Blaster on them and let it soak for a while.
 
Start simple. If the fuel pump got hot the ECM B fuse will let go creating what seems like a way bigger problem than what it really is.
 
Alright... 5 beer update.

Yanked the tank out. Apparently my truck gets better mpgs than I gave it credit for. What I expected was 5 gallons... I had about 500, or at least that is what it felt like falling on my chest. Gauge doesn't work btw.

Rampage: thanks for the tip on the grey wire. I will use it.

Stomis: checked MOST of the fuses before I started and rechecked ECMB after your comment. All are conductive.

So when I pulled the tank I learned that I think it's aftermarket. The baffle is a square shaped piece of plastic that had come loose from it's mounting bolt. Other than that, the inside of the tank looked perfect.

The sending unit was a bit odd. Looked fairly new and when I pulled it, the four pin female connector was disconnected ( I probably did that ). Also, the metal assembly that attaches to the float device was not connected to the main housing and just floating in the tank on it's side (I doubt I did that). The submersible fuel line looked good. Sock looked good as well.

Tomorrow I think I will trouble shoot the pump now that I have that flesh loving substance known as gas in the garage away from my cigarettes :) .

I will update.

Cody
 
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