Power to the P-Pump: Injecting New Life Into a 24-Valve Cummins
The P7100 conversion: an age-old solution for the ’98.5-’02 24-valve Cummins’ horsepower and reliability issues.
www.drivingline.com
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Diesel swap for pure tow rig. Normal towing and best mpg options....?
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
www.drivingline.com
That's awesome info.
that's the kind of stuff i need to know. So, this would make a 24v work like a 1 wire 12v ?Power to the P-Pump: Injecting New Life Into a 24-Valve Cummins
The P7100 conversion: an age-old solution for the ’98.5-’02 24-valve Cummins’ horsepower and reliability issues.
If so that's pretty much going on the list if I end up with a 24v.
That’s what I eventually did on my vp truck. It’s stupid simple to do. Like 6-8hrs to do it simple.
Whatever you do don’t buy a kit. Only thing you really need to buy premade is the injection lines. Everything else just search around. The only thing that needs a touch of skill is the grinding on the gear housing for the cam sensor. There’s plenty of pictures online showing how to do it. I reused the 24v throttle system and just bent it up to make it work with the p-pump which also was able to let me retain the factory cruise control. I will say that if you live where it gets remotely cold to use a grid heater or make sure you can plug the block heater in. Trying to crank over a 24* timed Cummins with no grid or block heater is a mother ****er.
The winter starting was weighing on my thoughts hard. But I realized that actually this truck will almost never be driven in winter probably.
In stockish form I thought most of the Cummins started pretty easy in the cold...?
In stockish form I thought most of the Cummins started pretty easy in the cold...?
Stock they are fine. But stock sucks.
I hope to find the middle ground of whatever above stock nets the most economical setup while towing.
My main goal is to be able to afford to tow my k30 to all the cool places to actually drive it.... Which really isn't Iowa lol. So I have a ways to go in any direction.
Don't care how fast, how many ftlbs, etc. Just whatever gets me the best mpg at around 65-70 mph with my truck n trailer in tow.
The ability to hit a button or two and make more power is a slight draw towards the 24v and it's electronics.
But ultimately not enough of a draw to be worth the possible headaches. Hence that p pump swap idea.
I need to know that when I set out across the country with my gear and family, we're going to get there and back reliably.
My main goal is to be able to afford to tow my k30 to all the cool places to actually drive it.... Which really isn't Iowa lol. So I have a ways to go in any direction.
Don't care how fast, how many ftlbs, etc. Just whatever gets me the best mpg at around 65-70 mph with my truck n trailer in tow.
The ability to hit a button or two and make more power is a slight draw towards the 24v and it's electronics.
But ultimately not enough of a draw to be worth the possible headaches. Hence that p pump swap idea.
I need to know that when I set out across the country with my gear and family, we're going to get there and back reliably.
The mention of harder starting is with advanced timing, while it definitely is a way to make more power (not torque, but power), it's not the only way. More boost will make more power and torque without messing with starting. Mine's advanced just a little and will still start in sub freezing temps in a couple cranking seconds even without using the grid heater.
Cummins start really easy for diesels in my experience (though as mentioned the VE pumps start the quickest, that's what mine is), and I think the grid heater works a lot better than the glow plug system on most other diesels.
Cummins start really easy for diesels in my experience (though as mentioned the VE pumps start the quickest, that's what mine is), and I think the grid heater works a lot better than the glow plug system on most other diesels.
Bumping the timing up to 18*, decent exhaust and air filter, grinding the fueling plate to a #10, adjust the star wheel and afc housing, and tightening the wastegate up will make for a solid 12v with good manners and mileage.
For a 24v, Edge EZ and RV275 injectors with an exhaust and intake. Of all the combos I tried on my vp (and believe me I tried them all), that was the best running one of the bunch.
For a 24v, Edge EZ and RV275 injectors with an exhaust and intake. Of all the combos I tried on my vp (and believe me I tried them all), that was the best running one of the bunch.
I have all Iterations of the Cummins , I have a VE, P7100, VP44 , and a 6.7 Common Rail .
My favorite truck to drive is my VP44 truck with A Edge Hot Unlock ,RV275’s , and a Borg Warner K27 . It’s Not my fastest or most powerful, it’s not the simplest. But it has a great balance of oldschool and Modern touches .
In my opinion it also sounds the best.
Whatever you do , save yourself the headache and money and go manual trans.
My favorite truck to drive is my VP44 truck with A Edge Hot Unlock ,RV275’s , and a Borg Warner K27 . It’s Not my fastest or most powerful, it’s not the simplest. But it has a great balance of oldschool and Modern touches .
In my opinion it also sounds the best.
Whatever you do , save yourself the headache and money and go manual trans.
I knew about this, but after reading about; now I want to do it
I've been looking for a tow rig, and have kinda been looking at the 7.3. They're not very powerful from the factory but it's not hard to make more. And they're pretty reasonably reliable w/ a couple of cheap/easy repairs on them.
true , but not very good swap material lol.
I'd go with a first gen common rail cummins. Painless makes a standalone harness for them that makes it a very simple wiring job. Only works with a manual trans though. I'd run a zf6.
Outside of wiring issues, Mines been great. 13% injectors, banks 6 gun and it pulls awesome.
Outside of wiring issues, Mines been great. 13% injectors, banks 6 gun and it pulls awesome.
Just to throw another vote in for the Cummins crowd - as said earlier the VE 12V’s are so damn simple and great mileage too; the P-pump‘s are very stout runners.
I had a 2002 BR2500 with a H.O. 24V-VP 44 ( 56 block ) and NVG-5600 that went through five injector pumps in under a 100K ( bone stock - no additional fueling and had seven lift pumps fail too so that aided in the demise of the I/P’s failing ) but the last one was the “industrial“ version and is still on that truck to this day.
Pulling a 91 V-3500 Crew Cab on a heavy trailer with that truck on 265/75R16’s with 4.10’s from Mobile,Al to Indiana and back we got 16~18 MPG consistently ( driving good ) and empty the best I ever got with 315/75R16’s was 22 MPG but usually got 19 no matter how I drove it empty.
Just another testimony for the older Cummins options.
I had a 2002 BR2500 with a H.O. 24V-VP 44 ( 56 block ) and NVG-5600 that went through five injector pumps in under a 100K ( bone stock - no additional fueling and had seven lift pumps fail too so that aided in the demise of the I/P’s failing ) but the last one was the “industrial“ version and is still on that truck to this day.
Pulling a 91 V-3500 Crew Cab on a heavy trailer with that truck on 265/75R16’s with 4.10’s from Mobile,Al to Indiana and back we got 16~18 MPG consistently ( driving good ) and empty the best I ever got with 315/75R16’s was 22 MPG but usually got 19 no matter how I drove it empty.
Just another testimony for the older Cummins options.
Whats a stock ‘01 24valve (i assume with vp44) worth these says? Say 250k miles and running? I know where one is, auto trans has some issues after being rebuilt twice (no towing or anything) and its just been sitting there. I guess whats it worth and whats a good price that make it worth the hassle to do necessary upgrades and not have a bottomless money pit?
Well., I guess this one isn't happening. As much as I want to build my dually. I have too many projects.
I pulled $26k out of the bank and I'm going to buy a newer, 4x4, SRW truck instead.
I've looked at a couple nice dirtymaxs, but will probably go gas and just add a stroker kit when the engine needs gone through. (Looking at mostly 100k+ mile trucks).
Rebuilding/beefing an engine quick if needed is a lot easier than a frame off resto, C to K, and dizzle swap.
Still have my k30 and burb to get done.
Dually will be up for sale shortly.
Too many irons in the fire, and we're going to try and buy a house soon too.
I pulled $26k out of the bank and I'm going to buy a newer, 4x4, SRW truck instead.
I've looked at a couple nice dirtymaxs, but will probably go gas and just add a stroker kit when the engine needs gone through. (Looking at mostly 100k+ mile trucks).
Rebuilding/beefing an engine quick if needed is a lot easier than a frame off resto, C to K, and dizzle swap.
Still have my k30 and burb to get done.
Dually will be up for sale shortly.
Too many irons in the fire, and we're going to try and buy a house soon too.
IME, the 6.0’s are 250k plus engines, so shouldn't need to worry about wearing it out!
Towing big however, really nothing compares to the 2006 and up GM and Cummins diesels, but fuel cost is on the losing end of that scale right now.
Towing big however, really nothing compares to the 2006 and up GM and Cummins diesels, but fuel cost is on the losing end of that scale right now.
Meh I wouldn’t sweat it. The conditions have to be right. I bought my first cummins donor in 2008. Took me this long to actually follow through.
