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Dirtroadoutlaw's '86 M1009

Love the build thread. I'm diggin the top chop, I want to do that so bad. Nice cage too.
 
Hydro assist. I knew it was coming but didn't realize how much I needed it until I actually needed it.

At the time, there weren't many options other than DIY for hydraulic assist with high-steer. I measured a bunch and bought a top-link cylinder for a tractor that I shortened, built a tie rod clamp, then came the construction of the tabs & brackets. I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story.

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The bracketry. I can't find all of the pics for some reason but you can get the idea. The last picture is pretty current though not very clear.

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I'm lost, what's the tool(?) in post 39 that looks like a pickle fork?

Do you still have the stack thru the hood? It's in some pics and not others, it looks tough as he!!.
 
I'm lost, what's the tool(?) in post 39 that looks like a pickle fork?

Do you still have the stack thru the hood? It's in some pics and not others, it looks tough as he!!.
That photo was put there by mistake. I can't remove it either. Heh.... oh well. It isn't a tool though. I will explain what it is soon as I get the thread caught up.

The stack is still through the hood. The photos without it were pre-turbo. I want to reroute it but I don't want to. I'll just focus time and resources elsewhere until it "clicks" as to which route to take.
 
So most of us know the options for getting the additional fluid needed for hydraulic assist. I chose the factory PS pump can with remote reservoir option. I sourced mine from a 90 something Astro van. The reservoir is yet another thing that I will have to revisit eventually but it's not an immediate problem. I tapped the top cap on the steering gear and bought an end cap online to run to the cylinder. No pics of that process except for the clean-up of the pump bucket and removal of that stupid belt diagram from the reservoir. Pics were limited because of how messy a project like that is.

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Alright, so the air filter wasn't in the best spot and there weren't many options. Debris was always getting thrown at it by the fan and belts. I had to come up with a solution so I bought a conical spectre filter & 4" inline "air box" as a unit from Summit.

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Obviously, the new filter setup alone would help but was still vulnerable to the same issues and would need to be routed to the inside of the cab or my choice which was to build a snorkel from 4", 16ga aluminum tubing. The grille across the inlet of the snorkel is nothing more than some 1/8" filler rod slid into some strategically drilled holes then welded in from the outside.

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I was running without a rear bumper and just had a box kinda deal that I built for it to provide support for a hitch, the original clevis mounts, and all that jazz. That did just what it was supposed to do which was to provide the basics until I figured out which route to take with a rear bumper. I was thinking of cloning Heavyleft's rear bumper which, at the time, was a Blazin Offroad piece with swing gate, spare holder, Jerry Can holder, and high-lift jack holder ALTHOUGH he had already proven the jack holder to be inadequate and impractical.

Low and behold! He decided to sell his! I wasted zero time contacting him as soon as I learned that it was for sale and bought it. It came to me via freight truck one day and I had it hanging on the blazer before the truck's dust settled! Just kidding. I stuck it on there that night. Here's a pic from that night.

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I still had no spare of the correct size (& still don't) and no Jerry Can holder so I used one of my OZ'S for a spare and made a Jerry Can holder from scraps of aluminum.

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I ran that holder for a while but it fit my fuel can too tightly. I built it to a water can not knowing that there was a slight difference in size. I got a real holder and here's a pic of how it looks today.

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Staying within a reasonably accurate time frame, in comes some carnage.

I went to a wheeling event in November of 2013. Had a chance to hang out and wheel with some great guys including Mike P. (Heavyleft). With all that came an exploded transfer case and hard core wrenching on into that Saturday night. Had the rig fixed and got to play a bit Sunday morning before coming home.

Had to source a needle bearing to go in my 32-spline input sun since I shattered my original then build a t-case on the deck of a trailer that night.

This case was destroyed due to a slip-spline on the front DS that was full of water and could not collapse.

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That t-case in the photo is actually the second one I've ruined. The first one I cracked slightly causing a drip. The one pictured, of course, is obviously FUBAR. Then, just a couple weeks ago, I trashed another one almost as bad but shattered the cast adapter too. Each of these were broken about a year apart.

The first one cracked because the front driveshaft was SLIGHTLY too long which is why the damage was so light. The second was because the slip yoke was full of water from being submerged for some time so it couldn't collapse as it should and the cap wouldn't blow out. The third (last time) was due to the fact that I wrung the splines on the front driveshaft which, again, kept it from collapsing.

So, after all this, it's time to get serious with a bigger, stronger, and more expensive option for a front driveshaft and I'm going a different route with t-case options too.
 
Anyhow, back to the timeline.

I've wanted electric fans for some time and, with other electrical work taking place anyway, decided to make it happen.

I've looked at some of the aftermarket fan setups available and found that they just aren't suitable for me. I mean, if your fans crap out on you while you're away somewhere wheeling, can you get new motors just anywhere? Besides, I have the 4-row job anyhow so there's a ton of real estate to cover. So my wheels started turning. My solution was this. Two 16" fans like the ones on the 1993, 4.9l powered Caddilacs. Not only are they adequate once the resistors are deleted but the motors can be found at almost any parts house because the same motors fit many vehicles. Also, they have WeatherPack connectors to make replacement and troubleshooting easier. Making them fit was a breeze.

I have friends with metal shops so I made a phone call, had some parts bent up out of 1/8" aluminum sheet, did a little cutting and drilling to them, and made two of these fans bolt right in place of the factory fan shroud.

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Of course, the oil cooler lines were in the way of the new fans and I didn't want to trim them. Having seen this coming, I bought two remote oil coolers from 90's Suburbans while I was at Pull-A-Part getting these fans. I got two because I wanted to get the transmission a little cooler too. So, using the factory burb bracketry with a little tweaking, I mounted them both in front of the radiator and plumbed them up using oil cooler hose rated for the temps and 400 psi. Here's what that looked like before the grille went back in.

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I made mention of "other wiring". The reason being that OBA was going in. I don't have any pics of the compressors with me so they'll have to wait. I do, however, have pics from the tank mounting process so I'll go on and share those. Just some scrap I had laying around rusting that I made brackets from using my old band saw and a drill press after a friend bent the ends to a 90 for me. The brackets had to be offset because of the compound "lean" on the tube that I mounted to so the tank would sit right and the drain work properly.

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