DIsc brake plumbing a few pics and questions again

[stoney126]

I got the disc brake swap almost done on my 14 bolt FF, just need to plumb it. I have a skyjacker line coming down to the pumpkin I just need to go out from there. Can I get the parts I need from Napa or do I need to order some custom stuff? Any part numbers. I found some numbers but they didnt pan out to much.

Also Can I use a 1310 to 1350 U-joint conversion On the stock driveshaft to connect to the 14 bolt?

 

[blazin_blazer]

kert from diy4x gave me this number for 3/4 ton calipers, i believe its a chevette hose from what i've read in other threads

bendix 77227 rear rubber brake

 

[dremu]

You'll want some softline at the caliper, so that they can shift left and right a bit. If you had just a hardline, the caliper would be held in place by it and that would be bad, either for braking, or would wear out the hardline The Chevette lines are popular; on one truck I got soft lines with the kit, and on the other I just reused the original front lines and looped them a bit.

As long as you have a block on the pumpkin, you can get hardline from NAPA or Kragen or whatever and bend to your heart's content ... the one in the back is 3/16", IIRC, but bring the old one in for sizing to be sure. It's the same stuff as steel fuel line, for instance, and comes pre-made in a range of sizes. You can also get one a bit too long, cut and re-flare it if you're clever.

-- A

 

[stoney126]

LOl clever is not used to describe me I found the part number from DR's post. It looks like Napa part number 20996 Rubber brake hose will do the trick. However part number 7818 Fitting for rubber hose to hard line comes up as a radiator hose on Napa's site.

From the pic on napas site for the the brake hose I should be able to connect the hard line right to the rubber line?

I still have the original retaining clips that held the hard lines, Can I reuse those. Should I look at some other retainers?

As always thanks for the info guys

 

[chevyridinhigh79]

im guessing your truck is a 1/2 ton and thats why you have the 1310 driveshaft u joint. the 1310 to 1350 conversion joint part # (neapco) 3-3140 or (NAPA) NPJ P348. neapco u joints are available at advance, kragen, schucks, murray's, and checker auto parts. you could even order it directly off of parts america. if you go that route make sure you say your truck is a 1 ton. i used a conversion joint on my rear driveshaft of my 77 k10 when i swapped my 1 ton axles in

 

[stoney126]

yup 84 blazer, with a 400 trans im not sure what the transfercase is, 208 maybe I should go look. its a former military k5

 

[chevyridinhigh79]

any pics of the blazer?

 

[stoney126]

some pics of when I first got it, i gotta get some updated ones

 

[stoney126]

some current ones, Btw for a small fee of 500 bucks i can Make you a custom k5 tarp

 

[chevyridinhigh79]

some current ones, Btw for a small fee of 500 bucks i can Make you a custom k5 tarp

haha i got a k10 so i dont need one, how about a k10 pickup tarp???

 

[stoney126]

LOL on sale now for 299.99, order now Ill customize further by adding you name with a sharpie

 

[UPS]

some current ones, Btw for a small fee of 500 bucks i can Make you a custom k5 tarp

I want one, do they flap while going down the road? I don't have a Blazer but I will buy one so I can use the new Blazertorp.

Mike

 

[chulisohombre]

im guessing your truck is a 1/2 ton and thats why you have the 1310 driveshaft u joint. the 1310 to 1350 conversion joint part # (neapco) 3-3140 or (NAPA) NPJ P348. neapco u joints are available at advance, kragen, schucks, murray's, and checker auto parts. you could even order it directly off of parts america. if you go that route make sure you say your truck is a 1 ton. i used a conversion joint on my rear driveshaft of my 77 k10 when i swapped my 1 ton axles in

i dont like the conversion joint much.i have replaced 2 of them in under 10,000 miles.i dont know why but my driveshaft eats em up pretty good.i am lookin into a driveshaft with the correct flange to run the 1350 joint.

 

[stoney126]

I want one, do they flap while going down the road? I don't have a Blazer but I will buy one so I can use the new Blazertorp.

Mike

It will unless you go with the butterknife modification.

 

[stoney126]

i dont like the conversion joint much.i have replaced 2 of them in under 10,000 miles.i dont know why but my driveshaft eats em up pretty good.i am lookin into a driveshaft with the correct flange to run the 1350 joint.

Ya the conversion u joint is just a temporary fix. I plan on swapping out trans and xfer case in the future and plan on getting a nice driveshaft made

 

[BGKYK5]

I recently did the same thing. Skyjacker line coming down from the frame, little bracket to hold it to the diff cover and 3/16 hard line from Auto Zone.



I got braided stainless flex line from G & J Aircraft to go to the calipers.



I cut and re-flared the hard line. I don't recomend it. If you try it make sure you get a good double flare tool. The one I bought was useless. I ended up borrowing a Rigid one from a guy at work that was better, but still not great (in my hands anyway ). I would advise against trying any tool less expensive than the Rigid. Some people have had luck with the cheap Chinese ones but the quality is hit or miss.

 

[stoney126]

Ohhhh im gonna steal your bracket idea, that looks great. what size screws did you use to secure it to the diff housing?

 

[blazeonchevy]

I took the stock rubber line that comes down and mounted the T to to the gas tank skid plate then ran the hard lines out to the framerails. And put new rubber lines (same as the stock front lines) from the frame down the side of the springs to the calipers. Looks very clean from the back. Nothing hanging on the axle or anything. I just need to go back and de-ghetto the install. I was low on money and time when I first did it. But I liked the idea.

 

[blazeonchevy]

Pic came out a little on the bad side but you get the point.

 

[UPS]

View attachment 63738

I cut and re-flared the hard line. I don't recomend it. If you try it make sure you get a good double flare tool. The one I bought was useless. I ended up borrowing a Rigid one from a guy at work that was better, but still not great (in my hands anyway ). I would advise against trying any tool less expensive than the Rigid. Some people have had luck with the cheap Chinese ones but the quality is hit or miss.

You should have the end of the steel tubing, where it hooks to the braided hose, hooked solidly. Now it can flex and possibly break.

I have a cheap double flare tool I bought from Car Quest a few years ago it worked OK when I bought it but now it flares the tube crooked. I just bought a new Imperial double flaring tool from Sears. It is made in the good ol USA.
My father has been flaring tubing with one like it for years. I don't think they have changed them either mine looks just like his. I hope mine works as well as his has and lasts as long also.

Mike