CK5
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Distributor or carburetor???

After reading this thread, what direction should I go?

  • New Distributor or new pickup and HEI Module

    Votes: 3 100.0%
  • just new pickup and HEI Module

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Carburetor kit and clean the jets

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3
  • Poll closed .
freshly cleaned, greased bearing slips out of your hand and rolls thru a pile of crud and dirt to the furthest point in the garage under the bench or toolbox..
 
5/16" bolt that holds carb to intake falls into intake just before you stuff a rag in the intake's holes..:doah:..
Valve slides down into cylinder when doing valve stem seals !..:doah::doah:...(now I stuff rope in the spark plug hole instead of using compressed air to hold the valves up!)..

I broke a distributor rotor the same way ,that goes on my 1940's vintage industrial Continental 4 cylinder flathead engine..that was about 10 years ago,haven't been able to run it since,have yet to find a suitable replacement that fits properly..might be seized up from sitting by now..
I tried transplanting the metal spring off an old Chevy rotor to the one that broke,it almost started,then the spring came off and landed on the points,shorted them out..it's been stuffed in a corner outside since then..probably ready for the scrap pile now..:(
 
Thermo King truck refrigeraton units used lots of various gas and diesel engines over the years, Continental being one of them...
old timers used to tell me that some of those old little 4 bangers made good race motors.

the head and blocks we're all cast as one solid unit, valves loaded in the block first, then pistons,then crank.. everything loaded in thru the bottom end. they were known to turn some real high RPM..I never worked on one, but saw a lot of them get scrapped as new diesels took their place.
 
This one is a Y-69 model,I think originally it powered a IHC hay baler--its mounted in a heavy cradle with a huge old brass radiator that has "CONTINENTAL" stamped into the upper tank..

It's only rated at 19.9 HP,but it has a long stroke and a heavy flywheel--takes awhile to get it up to RPM,but once you do it almost never bogs down or stalls..this one has a cylinder head that bolts on..
I took the valve lifter side covers off it once,it was still clean as new in there,with factory blue paint..it must have a billion hours on it,last use it had was running a cranberry bog pump,they ran it 24/7 for years,only stopping once every few months to change the oil!..

It did smoke some last time I had it going,but its old enough to smoke..the company that had it dumped it at the junkyard--I felt bad ,didn't want to see it crushed,so I took it home when they closed the yard up ..never did put it to use on anything,it'd be a neat rat rod or tractor engine..
 
Some of the other gas motors they used were:
Wisconsin, Onan, Cosworth, Waukesha

Diesels: Mercedes Benz, Isuzu, Perkins, Yanmar, Onan,

they even tried a turbine unit once,,,it was an experimental unit and never made it into production..pretty sure that was an Allison..
 
Put the new coil in, new distributor cap and new rotor....NOPE...still sputtering. it even stalled on me this time.

Ran pretty good till I got it out on the road and gunned it...then slowly the sputter came back...

My guess is the carburetor
 
My thinking is this now: I have new wires and plugs...but aren't those either good or bad? I mean, if it was plugs it wouldn't wait till you got to highway speeds?

Same for plug wires?
 
Must be the accelerator pump...or possibly fuel pump
 
But i smelled gas real strong when I took the air breather / filter assembly off before I even tried to crank it the first time
 
It could be the carb,but after seeing that coil I'd suspect other ignition parts first..maybe the float is swelled up from ethanol,Q-jets used a black foam on the floats that might not stand up to ethanol exposure.
It should be flooding if the float is sinking though..

Delco HEI modules have a dwell advance circuit in them,that could be the culprit--some aftermarket ones lack that circuit and you can really tell the difference with it missing,the engine will start & run "ok",but lack any guts without the dwell advance as it gains rpms..

Pick up coil can cause all sorts of weird running issues too,and dont always do it constantly,it can act up and run crappy ,then run normal again ,they usually dont crap out completely,they'll cause intermittent problems..and drive a mechanic coo-coo!..ditto for the HEI modules..
 
So I can do this one piece at a time or I can go ahead and get this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B..._title_srh_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

71hB9y%2BDhwL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I can get an HEI module for $30, but the pickup coil is $60....and on and on and on and on
 
I only got a little money right now...who thinks carburetor or fuel pump?
Who thinks Distributor?
 
I agree with Bob, that coil looks like it was arcing,,, and the module could be damaged.
but I think your sputtering issue is carb related or the fuel pump, fuel system...
heck it could be a bad hose...

you can't go wrong stabbing in a new dizzy, plugs and wires and go from there..
at least you would be sure the ignition is covered..
 

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