40 gal tank in the pig. 
CK5
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diy4x dash layout what do you think ? NEED OPINION post #66 please
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
Randy92782
1 ton status
yeah that's gonna hurt. Idk whats in my suburban but it's not gonna be cheap to fill40 gal tank in the pig.
I would get rid of all of the ARB wiring. Use a normal toggle to run the compresor.
Use air toggles for the activation switches.
In all the years I have been around ARB's I have seen electrical failures take out the lockers. I have yet to see an actual air problem with them as long as the compressor runs they work.
Why the ARB pressure switch? Seems a bit over and above IMO.
Use air toggles for the activation switches.
In all the years I have been around ARB's I have seen electrical failures take out the lockers. I have yet to see an actual air problem with them as long as the compressor runs they work.
Why the ARB pressure switch? Seems a bit over and above IMO.
run what i got now . budget is getting real tiny since i dont work right now for medical reasons.
reason for 2 needle gauge for lockers is i got it and wana use it.
some of the stuff i am using my dad had on 1 of his old trucks that i have good little kid memories of riding in. so its kind of a tribute.
i will wire the arb stuff just a bit diffrent from there stuff. so it should offer less problems and simple to figure out if problems.
reason for 2 needle gauge for lockers is i got it and wana use it.
some of the stuff i am using my dad had on 1 of his old trucks that i have good little kid memories of riding in. so its kind of a tribute.
i will wire the arb stuff just a bit diffrent from there stuff. so it should offer less problems and simple to figure out if problems.
its nice to have a full size panel to test fit and work with for mock up . this panel will not be used in the end. i have kirt @ diy4x.com making me a new panel to my specs for the diffrent layout. so i am not to mad at my self scratching this one all up.
got around to wiring it up today slow and steady wins this race.
even got me a nice little fuse block for wiring in some of the gauges and stuff. will need to swap some fuses around for correct amps.
man i am so happy it come out this clean and nice . its so great to be left 100% alone and give 100% to the project.
black = ground to gauge & backlight
red = 12v main power to gauges
white = variable power to backlight
white/brown together = 2 blue high beam ind lights
green & yellow = 2 green turn bulbs
orange = check engine light
got around to wiring it up today slow and steady wins this race.
even got me a nice little fuse block for wiring in some of the gauges and stuff. will need to swap some fuses around for correct amps.
man i am so happy it come out this clean and nice . its so great to be left 100% alone and give 100% to the project.
black = ground to gauge & backlight
red = 12v main power to gauges
white = variable power to backlight
white/brown together = 2 blue high beam ind lights
green & yellow = 2 green turn bulbs
orange = check engine light
the lights i used are old school stuff my dad had instock for years. i kind of liked them for a diffrent look and old school .
used a old red jewel light for center of panel for check engine.
used what i have figured are for custom panel or airplane type lights 2 blue on upper left/right of 2 main gauges for high beam. then 2 green in the lower center for each turn bulb location. and yes i did check these 30-40+ year old style lights i can still get replacement bulbs if needed. and still cheep @ 1.00 each . thay are .8 watt output and 14v rated.
and all this bench testing power up work is done with a 14volt 20 amp output power supply. so the lights are at full power working load as if in the truck.
used a old red jewel light for center of panel for check engine.
used what i have figured are for custom panel or airplane type lights 2 blue on upper left/right of 2 main gauges for high beam. then 2 green in the lower center for each turn bulb location. and yes i did check these 30-40+ year old style lights i can still get replacement bulbs if needed. and still cheep @ 1.00 each . thay are .8 watt output and 14v rated.
and all this bench testing power up work is done with a 14volt 20 amp output power supply. so the lights are at full power working load as if in the truck.
yep twin high beam. figured why not i had just 2 green for turn and 2 blue. so instead of 1 left over i figured it would look sweet as twin high beam light up.
and its not the bulb thats blue or green. the housing it fits in is colored in the window area.
and ya i might see about dropin the watts on the check engine for less brightness.
and its not the bulb thats blue or green. the housing it fits in is colored in the window area.
and ya i might see about dropin the watts on the check engine for less brightness.
Randy92782
1 ton status
Wiring totally confuses me but that looks great!
but that looks great!
does me to when under pressure.
but this was real easy . just did 1 batch of wires at a time nice and neat.
grounds / powers / lights / and i also split the stuff up on left and right flow as you can see.
slow and steady wins this race thats for sure.
but this was real easy . just did 1 batch of wires at a time nice and neat.
grounds / powers / lights / and i also split the stuff up on left and right flow as you can see.
slow and steady wins this race thats for sure.
does me to when under pressure.
but this was real easy . just did 1 batch of wires at a time nice and neat.
grounds / powers / lights / and i also split the stuff up on left and right flow as you can see.
slow and steady wins this race thats for sure.
Yep, good way to do it. When I did the prewire on my blazer dash, I brought it home with me and set it up in a spot at home that it wouldn't be distrubed. Little by little put all the wiring in keeping it as orderly as possible.
Brett, since I can't attach a pic into a PM i'll post my wiring in here for you to see if you don't mind since you asked about it. This was before I added LED turn indicators which added a few more wires but you get the idea. Because I had to keep the original guage housing I had to do it this way in order to be able to install the bezel with the gauges easy enough without breaking stuff. my red wires are Hots, black wires are grounds, white wires are gauge lights, and then there's a green sender wire for the temp gauge, pink for fuel sender, brown for oil sender Blue for speedo signal and finally a white for tach signal.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I like it, those panel lights are very cool.
thanks scott. i might get out my show truck dash and wire that one up. its gona be stock like yours. so that will be a major help to me.
and thanks for the coments guys.
and thanks for the coments guys.
magik235
Still Alive
I really like it.
Ulfhedinn
Registered Member
Incrediable! Now you got me wanting one.... 
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Pretty slick...
new pics at night all lit up. 
got to adjust some bulbs watt's as some are to bright.
161 = low
194 = med
168 = high
so if you want bright bulbs or lower watt bulbs use this info.
got to adjust some bulbs watt's as some are to bright.
161 = low
194 = med
168 = high
so if you want bright bulbs or lower watt bulbs use this info.
That looks real good. So that vacuum gauge has a 168 bulb in it? I'm thinking about putting LED's in all my gauges. I have a single LED and a 4 way LED that i'm going to try and see if either one will look good then i'll buy more if I like it (these are wedge base bulbs IE: 194 style).
