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Do I need a conversion U-Joint?
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
My new yoke came in and I'm trying to install it now. I was going to transfer the slinger shield thing over to the new yoke but its not a tight fit and can spin unlike the original yoke where it had a tight almost press fit due to 3 punch marks to hold it. Do I need to run the slinger shield or should I just toss it? Would tack welding it on be okay?
I'd tack it or use some right stuff if it's pretty close.
Just to help keep a stick or something from going up in the seal
Just to help keep a stick or something from going up in the seal
I was mostly thinking about deflecting that Michigan sand...
I tried using a punch to set the slinger onto the yoke but it would still spin so I laid 2 nice tacks. Now it no go spinny anymore [emoji106]
Good deal 
Well its back together but:
So the diff cover is weeping. I guess I'll have to pull it and reseal it tomorrow [emoji36]
Also I noticed on the other tcase u joint that the caps spin inside the slip yoke. Ugh I guess I need a new slip yoke now [emoji36]
But hey at least my vibration is gone and the rear yoke and u joint are tight. [emoji106]
So the diff cover is weeping. I guess I'll have to pull it and reseal it tomorrow [emoji36]
Also I noticed on the other tcase u joint that the caps spin inside the slip yoke. Ugh I guess I need a new slip yoke now [emoji36]
But hey at least my vibration is gone and the rear yoke and u joint are tight. [emoji106]
Last time I used paper gaskets and some indian head gasket shellack. Not a drip.
Paper diff gasket > silicone.
Martin
Martin
Since when is this forum all about paper gaskets? I've been using RTV for years and this was the first time I've had a problem with it.
Yeah, I thought everybody here was still on the "Right Stuff" wagon. I gave up on that stuff because I have to about trash a diff cover to get it off again. A small tube would be a valuable asset for trail repairs, though.
I think the key to a good RTV job on a diff is to chase the threads of all lower bolt holes, spray them out with brake clean and then dry with compressed air. Clean the bolts, too.
I think the key to a good RTV job on a diff is to chase the threads of all lower bolt holes, spray them out with brake clean and then dry with compressed air. Clean the bolts, too.
I always bend the flange on the cover trying to pry it off. I just straighten it back out in the bench vise, scrape off the mating surfaces, wipe down with brake clean, bead of RTV, and bolt it back together.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ive used a bunch of different sealing stuff but ive found the best so far is the grey gasket making RTV from autozone. Im pretty sure permatex makes it. Its made to be around gear oil and i haven't had any leaks when i use that stuff.
Also found that acetone takes it right off so if you start with a clean surface you wont have to scrape it.
Another key thing i do which most people dont do or know about is use a Z pattern when putting down the RTV. If you get a good, continuous Z pattern it will squeeze the air out when applied to the mating surface on the housing. Thats how i bond carbon fiber together for satellites, which seems to be working well lol.
I recently was in a hurry to put my front diff cover on and used the high temp red RTV and ive got leaks. Used grey before and had no leaks so i think the gray is where its at.
You may need an air chisel to get the diff cover off later on,and to scrape off the Indian Head Shellac!..but I bet it'll never leak...
I love that stuff,but only for certain things..its about the only stuff that gas wont eat off after it hardens,I have used it on two Q-jets with stripped fuel inlets and they never leaked a drop again (had to delete the internal fuel filter and remember to never attempt to remove the inlet fitting again )..
I used it once on a thermostat housing and the upper hose on a 283 I had in a 67 Impala--two years later I had to use an old wood chisel and mallet to chop the hose away from the housing,and even my bench grinder's wire wheel had a hard time removing that shellac..
Tried using some on a small engine side cover that loved to ooze oil--it cured the leak,but when I had to take it back off a few years later to replace the govenor gear,I had a very hard time getting it apart!..had to use carb cleaner and pry it apart and ended up boogering up the machined surfaces somewhat..
I have coated new brake lines and my fuel injector lines on my diesel where they were getting pitted from rust with the shellac--it seems to be a very good coating that seals out air..have to let it dry a day or so before you can handle the lines though--some I have coated after installing ,using that shoe polish dauber thing that comes attached to the cap on the shellac..
I remember the story a friend told me about his experience with Indian Head Gasket Shellac...he left a bottle of it on his dresser in his room..one sunday morning when he was in a rush to get to church with his wife,they noticed their 5 year old daughter was VERY quiet,and they found her in his room--using the dauber to "polish her shoes",and she had the shellac ALL over her new dress,her fingers,etc..they had to use rubbing alcohol to get most of it off,the rest had to "wear off",which took a few days !--the dress was a total loss..
I remove diff cover, wipe surfaces with rag, and reassemble. Usually reusing the paper gasket.
Tell me if you can figure out why I use the paper gasket........
Martin
Why can't we get rubber diff gaskets? I've had rubber tranny pan gaskets re-used a dozen times with no problems.
Can I use this Indian shellac on small plumbing leaks in the house?
To stay on topic, I once had a conversion U-joint, but I sold it. Carry on.
Can I use this Indian shellac on small plumbing leaks in the house?
To stay on topic, I once had a conversion U-joint, but I sold it. Carry on.
You can use the shellac as a pipe thread sealant..it tends to harden up pretty solid though,so removal later might be a bit of a pain..it will never leak most likely though..
I wouldn't reccomend it as a brush on leak stopper for steel or copper pipes..
Though if you could get them dry and clean first it may work,at least temporarily..
I've tried using J-B Waterweld putty on a copper elbow fitting that has a slow drip in my laundry room,to no avail...it might "set up underwater",but my experience with it is like all other epoxies and sealants,if you cant get the surface perfectly dry and clean--it aint gonna work..the fitting still drips--I just hung a bucket under it for now and empty it every 4 days or so..
I'd just try to re-sweat the fitting,but its inches away from a bunch of other fittings and valves that would likely come un-soldered when I go to sweat it--I've had poor luck trying to sweat copper fittings once water has been in the pipes too,it never seems to stick ,it always ends up dripping..I can solder new pipes no problem,but "used" ones suck to try and seal up..
I think gear oil might freak out a neoprene rubber gasket,I could be wrong,but I'd think if one would work,someone would be selling them by now..
I wouldn't reccomend it as a brush on leak stopper for steel or copper pipes..
Though if you could get them dry and clean first it may work,at least temporarily..
I've tried using J-B Waterweld putty on a copper elbow fitting that has a slow drip in my laundry room,to no avail...it might "set up underwater",but my experience with it is like all other epoxies and sealants,if you cant get the surface perfectly dry and clean--it aint gonna work..the fitting still drips--I just hung a bucket under it for now and empty it every 4 days or so..
I'd just try to re-sweat the fitting,but its inches away from a bunch of other fittings and valves that would likely come un-soldered when I go to sweat it--I've had poor luck trying to sweat copper fittings once water has been in the pipes too,it never seems to stick ,it always ends up dripping..I can solder new pipes no problem,but "used" ones suck to try and seal up..
I think gear oil might freak out a neoprene rubber gasket,I could be wrong,but I'd think if one would work,someone would be selling them by now..
Yup. Dont make em for 14 sf, or 10b fronts.... And we are the 14sf 10b club up in here!!
I started trying it last axle rebuild time over this winter. Ive always had rtv leak for me. Every time I clean it, blow out all the oil, wipe it all down well with cleaner. No leaks for a day or two, then boom slow drip.
You may need an air chisel to get the diff cover off later on,and to scrape off the Indian Head Shellac!..but I bet it'll never leak...
Good thing i installed a drain plug
