CK5
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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!

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frame boxing and tie plates for main trans/transfer crossmember with 1/2" hardware

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tabs are to support the back end of the transmission support and belly skid

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start of transmission support and belly skid, underside will get 1/4" plate held together by flat head counter sunk allens and welded flange nuts on other side

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56" springs in rear w/ DIY4X shackle flip, springs are backwards and moved forward on RuffStuff spring perches for 3" rear stretch

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welded shock tabs to spring plates from DIY4X, 14 bolt disc brake conversion, 4.56 gears & detroit, antiwrap axle side brackets, relocated bumpstops, not shown is RuffStuf pinion guard that I have't installed yet

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Seat is a third row bench from early 2000s Suburban

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top of shocks wil get tied in to interior roll cage

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These are actually just toilet flanges I used to make my weather proof shock boots. Little ghetto but it turned out perfect and very functional

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seat mounts made from DIY4X staked cage plates, 3/8 tabs, & 5/8 solid round stock
 
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this side of seat mounts will get tied into the frame via a poly bushing fabricator's set from DIY4X


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DIY4X adjustable bump stop brackets, weld in steering brace that hasn't been welded in yet, approximate shock placement up front


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WFO concepts reverse tie rod steering arms w/ 1" Ballistic Fab high steer spacers to clear leaf springs

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ORD small block high clearance engine crossmember (if running LS engnie you want the big block version). I had to raise the entire drivetrain 1.25" to clear the oil pan using custom spec'd motor mounts from DIY4X. Nothing on steering is welded together yet except for custom spec'd axle side high steer tower from DIY4X

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good shot of Surplus Center hydro assist ram that is internally destroked 1" for 7" total travel and custom spec'd DIY4X high steer mount

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Sweet build man! I really like the toilet flanges for the rear shocks.
 
Very nice! Lots of neat stuff going on there, can't wait for more. :thumb:
 
Thanks guys, it's been a slow process with three kids under the age of 6. I am trying to teach my 5 year old boy some welding. Got him an auto darkening helmet and some women's extra small size MIG gloves. He has done a handful of welds but mainly just flange nuts that get heavy tacks. As you can tell from the pics I am no expert welder and i am still getting used to this old Snap On unit I picked up a couple months ago.

I still have some pretty neat tricks up my sleeve that I haven't gotten to yet so I will try to update this.
 
nice build.

I like what you did with the fuel cell.

I will get some more pics of that for you, it isn't done yet but the main frame work is there, it still needs some 10 ga steel plate for a skid. Its a 20 gal cell with a rear sump. I have the bottom of the cell even with the bottom of the frame so it is really tucked up out of harms way. I am going to put a cargo rack about half way up the height of the bed so I can still get to the cell but have lots of storage above and to the sides.
 
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axle side rear bump stop pads made from 1/4" wall box steel, C channel, & angle iron, I am going to dress up the sides with some 1/8" bar stock leaving room to access through bolts

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this is in fully collapsed position

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adjustable by 2" since inner tube can raise up, notches are for drain holes, axle radius hasn't been cut into outer tube yet

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underside will get plated with 10 ga steel plate for skid (puncture protection)

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angle iron frame welded to bed to add rigidity back where hole was cut and locate the cell

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this fit is VERY tight, probably should have left a hair bit more wiggle room for installation and removal

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gap around fuel cell will be sealed up with some edge molding and maybe some silicone
 
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belly skid will be right up against t-cases so the bottom will be almost even with the lowest part of the 205 case
 
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Nice collection of parts. Is that a shifter from an '88+ truck?

Martin
 
Nice collection of parts. Is that a shifter from an '88+ truck?

Martin

Not sure on the shifter, it came with the trans when I bought it used. It is an aluminum top trans cover so the shifter is several inches rearward of the older cast iron top covers. The shift boot I ordered from Classic Parts and it is a late 80s boot but it doesn't fit tightly on the actual shifter so I will have to make some sort of spacer to wrap around the shaft and get a better seal. Got the shift knob from twistedshifterz on Ebay. It feels awesome!
 
dig the fuel cell gig.. did the same exact in my 69 Chevelle....

sub'd for stuff....
 
Subscribed...wow you have some neat stuff going on here. Great job.
 
I will try to have something to update at least 1-2 times a week. Today I worked on my belly skid for a bit but not long enough to really get too much accomplished. Have some questions for you guys more in the know about UHMW and what I can get away with.

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So my main question is do I need to back this UHMW with some steel plate or can I leave it as is? If I need to run plate behind it, what thickness should be sufficient? My original plan was to run 1/4" plate and not have this UHMW at all but I got it free from work and thought it might be neat to try out. If I don't like it I can do the 1/4" plate like originally planned. I will probably still do the plate on the back part of the skid that angles up to the main crossmember

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All the flange nuts are going to get welded with heavy tacks so they will be permanently held in place. I may get shorter bolts or cut these down since the fit against the doubler is pretty tight.

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I would have brought the UHMW all the way back to where the skid kicks up to the main cross member but the piece I had was only as long as what you see here

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All the heads are countersunk with a bit I got from Harbor Freight. Worked great on this but don't think it would last too long on steel

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This is 1/2" thick UHMW. I am thinking about beveling the edges all the way around so there is not just a hard 90 edge. Think it would look better and maybe keep a lip from wanting to snag. What are your thoughts?
 
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So after doing a little more research I think I am going to go ahead and do a 1/4" steel plate backer and just run the UHMW on top of that. I lose 1/2" of belly clearance over just 1/4" plate but I think the sliding factor is probably worth it.
 
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