That's cool man I have been helping a buddy build up a bronco II similar year. Getting super duty axles , 60 and a 10.25 , right now
CK5
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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!
- Thread starter truck-oholic
- Start date
I don't know if I have ever seen the main tube on the bottom. Is there an advantage to doing it one way or the other?
Martin
Martin
I am not an engineer so I cannot give you the full explanation but I know that both Ruff Stuff & WFO Concepts design them with the main tube (that takes the heim bung) on the bottom. My common sense observation is this: would you rather be dragging a 2" OD 1/4 wall tube over rocks or a 1.75" OD 1/4 wall tube? Now I will point out that Ruff Stuff gives you the option of a 1/4 wall 1.5" OD or 1.75" OD tube for the upper and I chose the 1.75" OD. WFO Concepts actually takes it a bit further on the downsizing of the upper tube and they do 1.5" OD .219 wall and do not offer the option to upsize. Obviously they do not intend for you to use the smaller tube for the bottom, ever, or they would go heavier wall instead of lighter.
I have a Ruff Stuff one, and mine is the other way.
Martin
Martin
I like to look at it a different way...more from a business stand point. If you want to make a true universal wrap bar kit, you probably don't want to make it with the bottom tube coming up to connect with the main tube and have a longated notch in it, because everyone is going to have different length requirements making almost every kit custom. So the idea posted above showing the shorter tube connecting to the main tube with another joint makes more since, but you don't want joint/connection on the bottom to get snagged on rocks. So just flip it and the main tube on the bottom....boom, now you have a universal kit you can sell.
All that matters is you don't have wrap anymore right? So how you go about it doesn't really matter. I did my main tube on the top and didn't think the longated notch on the bottom tube was too bad, but it did take a little extra effort to get the fitment right. I think either way you will be completly fine with
Everything is looking sick dude
, keep at it
All that matters is you don't have wrap anymore right? So how you go about it doesn't really matter. I did my main tube on the top and didn't think the longated notch on the bottom tube was too bad, but it did take a little extra effort to get the fitment right. I think either way you will be completly fine with
Everything is looking sick dude
, keep at it
Nope, I've read enough other antiwrap threads. I am sure there is just as much debate about main tube on bottom or top as there is shackle in tension or compression. Obviously there are quite a few different ways to crack this nut but I still prefer the way I have done my two installations. To each their own . . .
I have seen people do it like you are talking with the Ruff Stuff kits but their intention is that you run the bigger diameter tube on the bottom. If you go to the product page and look at the options they list the lower tube as 2" OD with no other OD options but the upper tube has options of 1.5" or 1.75" OD. The bung you get in the kit is for the 2" tube (lower tube), not the upper tube. Now, ironically enough, the customer pictures they have posted on the product page show the opposite style like you used, but again, that is not their intention
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html
I wasn't trying to argue the point that my way was better. I have no idea if it even makes a difference. I was just curious. I went back and looked through that thread, and found another one in there like yours. I had never noticed it that way before. You should add your pictures and information to that thread for future reference for others.
Martin
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I also was not trying to argue that my way was necessarily better, just what the manufacturer of the kit had in mind which is also the way that I prefer to set them up. Like I said before, there are a number of design variations out there and the effects of all those possible combinations is beyond my knowledge. I will definitely add pics to that thread once mine is completely done. I just ordered another bung & heim along with some roll cage goodies from Ruff Stuff so it will probably be sometime next week before I get those to finish up.
I just noticed my phone auto corrected reference to defense. That probably made it look like I was still trying to argue.
Martin
Martin
Welded my steering plates in today and threw my box on to see how much I am going to have to notch the frame for the pitman arm and draglink end.
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Did some more steering work this afternoon.
Welded up my high steer tie rod and removed the low steer tie rod
Next task is to weld the hydro assist ram tabs to the tie rod
Hoping this is enough room for the shock but I won't weld the towers on till I am able to cycle the suspension in case I need to make adjustments
Yes, details matter to me
Welded up my high steer tie rod and removed the low steer tie rod
Next task is to weld the hydro assist ram tabs to the tie rod
Hoping this is enough room for the shock but I won't weld the towers on till I am able to cycle the suspension in case I need to make adjustments
Yes, details matter to me
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Are those monotubes?
and I'm doing something similar with Kerts Anti-wrap kit adding a heim and tabs from WFO
and I'm doing something similar with Kerts Anti-wrap kit adding a heim and tabs from WFO
They are the older 15" stroke Rancho RS9000s. I have read mixed reviews on running them upside down but the packaging for my build requires me to run the shocks can up. If they don't work out in that orientation then I will swap them out for some Bilsteins or similar
Oh screw it, I just ordered some RS7034s since they are having a buy 3 get 1 free rebate deal. That will solve the inverted shock problem before it even exists. Anyone want to buy the RS9000s from me? I got them as NOS from a guy who used them for mock up and never ran them just like me.
They are old part number RS9036 (new part number RS999036). 21" compressed, 36" extended, 15" total travel. Cheapest I found them online just now is $93 each shipped. Any takers for all 4 at $275 shipped? If you wait till I get my new ones I will give the buyer all new hardware and boots.
They are old part number RS9036 (new part number RS999036). 21" compressed, 36" extended, 15" total travel. Cheapest I found them online just now is $93 each shipped. Any takers for all 4 at $275 shipped? If you wait till I get my new ones I will give the buyer all new hardware and boots.
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Did you grind the frame plate yet for the draglink end?
And it's weird the end is on top, what pitman arm is that?
And it's weird the end is on top, what pitman arm is that?
No, not yet. I got the pitman arm from DIY4X. It is the regular popular superlift arm with the top side reamed for the bigger, high angle draglink ends. I am using this version to try and keep the draglink bar as far forward as possible since my axle is around 3" forward from stock. From what I can tell it makes about 1" of horizontal difference being on top vs. bottom
Worked on some seat mount to frame tie ins this afternoon.
Some weld porn for you guys
Going to do this at all four corners for the rear bench. That's where my three kids will be so I am making damn sure the seat does not go anywhere no matter what!
Going to tie the bushing to the staked cage plate seat mount with some 1.75" .120 wall DOM and weld flange nuts on the inside of the frame to allow future boxing.
Some weld porn for you guys
Going to do this at all four corners for the rear bench. That's where my three kids will be so I am making damn sure the seat does not go anywhere no matter what!
Going to tie the bushing to the staked cage plate seat mount with some 1.75" .120 wall DOM and weld flange nuts on the inside of the frame to allow future boxing.
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Came home to find my latest Ruff Stuff order on the front porch. I had to order this heim to finish my antiwrap bar and went ahead and got some roll cage goodies while I was at it since they were doing their 15% Easter sale. These corner bags will attach to the roll cage on all four sides of the rear wheel wells like they are laid out in the pic. Grab handles will go where needed.
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