I did end up printing mine off...that's how I was able to make notes and put it in order that makes better sense for the version I will be building.
CK5
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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!
- Thread starter truck-oholic
- Start date
I did end up printing mine off...that's how I was able to make notes and put it in order that makes better sense for the version I will be building.
Made a little bit of progress today. Got a bunch of cutting & grinding done with a little bit of welding too.
Got the ram mount put together
Wound up countersinking the main pivot bushing into these tabs because they are meant for 5/8 thick material and I had some 3/4 thick steel I was using instead. Just used a 1-1/2 hole saw to give the necessary clearance and countersink
This is a good shot of the 1/8" countersink in action
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Woah gnarly.! Good work how much chipped to Cali 
Been working a lot lately and getting a 24x40 concrete pad laid out, formed, and ready for pour which will eventually be an enclosed shop area in the corner of our property. Anyway, here is a little bit of progress.
Got my 12K Engo winch with synthetic line. Going to wait until I have my front clip back on to install the solenoid and see what kind of clearancing I might need at the lower valence.
Might get a Factor 55 style thimble instead of the hook so I can join the cool club
Decided to run front and rear suck down winches so here is the front. Going to have an identical unit mounted under the rear bench seat between the frame rails going to a pulley I'll mount off the diff cover. This also means I will be running a dual battery setup and for convenience I might mount the second battery behind the rear seat.
This is a 2500lb ATV winch. It currently has around 50' of cable but I am going to shorten it to around 20' so I am pulling off the first layer. I will mount a pulley off the axle tube in the center and have the cable double back to the bumper so I am using 5-6'
Pulley should go just to the right of the cast axle center section. Of course I had to run out of hardware while mounting the suck down winch 
In other news, I started to take a serious look at the front driveshaft situation and decided to go with single 1410 u-joints at the t-case and pinion with a 2.25 OD 1/8 wall tube and extreme travel spline like below. Might also have to get some Tom Woods 1410 super-flex joints but won't know for sure until I see if the regular 1410s will handle the angle without binding.
In other news, I started to take a serious look at the front driveshaft situation and decided to go with single 1410 u-joints at the t-case and pinion with a 2.25 OD 1/8 wall tube and extreme travel spline like below. Might also have to get some Tom Woods 1410 super-flex joints but won't know for sure until I see if the regular 1410s will handle the angle without binding.
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks good, and the plan sounds nice.
Woah that's gnarly.. I never would have guessed a atv winch would work that makes sense though and doesn't ruin the fact you might need the primary winch for getting unstuck while the front is sucked down
Yeah, some people use their main winch for suckdown but like you said, what happens if you need to use it to get you up the obstacle that was steep enough that you had to suckdown in the first place?
There is a lot of stuff here in TN that is hill climbs and I am planning on taking this thing to my first ever trip to Moab next year so I thought this was a good investment considering how cheap the ATV winches are.
I'll agree. I just did Turkey Bay OHV on Sunday and there was some steep hills.
In other news, I started to take a serious look at the front driveshaft situation and decided to go with single 1410 u-joints at the t-case and pinion with a 2.25 OD 1/8 wall tube and extreme travel spline like below. Might also have to get some Tom Woods 1410 super-flex joints but won't know for sure until I see if the regular 1410s will handle the angle without binding.
where did you source those long slips?
Here is a link to the vendor I found and am going to purchase from. This first link is just the slips.
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_long_slip_yoke_and_spline.htm
This other link is to the actual driveshaft I am going to get. Either doing 13" stub or 17" stub, haven't decided yet. The extra 4" is only $30 more so thinking the added adjustability might be worth it for any future uses
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_kits_no_cv.htm#Standard spline and stub drive shaft with 1410 1.5-ton u-joint
Just for info sakes driveshaft superstore can be hit or miss. I have had poeple use em several times. 4 out of 5 seems fine but just hope your not that fifth time.
I am jealous of your notcher. I have never owned a decent notcher. Notched a whole Lotta tube with chop saws, Sawzalls, grinders and a ( several) cheapie HF notchers
I am jealous of your notcher. I have never owned a decent notcher. Notched a whole Lotta tube with chop saws, Sawzalls, grinders and a ( several) cheapie HF notchers
Yeah, so I went to order my driveshaft today and guy gives me a price twice as expensive as the website says. I was like WTF dude? He then tells me that the website company is no longer in business and he (a former competitor of theirs) bought the website and put his contact info there to catch some of their business. This would not bother me if he actually updated the website and made it reflect what he is actually selling and charging but instead he is just making it a big bait and switch.
So . . . called Tom Woods and they came in about $200 cheaper than this first D-Bag. Called High Angle Driveline and they came in about $75 cheaper than Tom Woods so went ahead and pulled the trigger on that order.
Should be here in around 2 weeks. Here are the specs it will be built to: 2.25 OD .120 wall tube with 1410 single joints at each end, 38" static length center to center with 4" of spline showing and 8" of spline in the tube. This gives me 6" of usable droop. My actual numbers were ~2" of compression and ~4.5" of droop so there is a bit of fudge factor each way.
So, in the end I had to pay $100 more than I was expecting (total cost was $500 shipped) but I imagine I am probably going to wind up with a better quality product. I have heard nothing but good things about HAD.
With that savings you could of bought a bitching hoodie from Jesse as well. USA made too.
Crazy..
After looking at things some more for the suck down winches I believe I have a good plan.
For the front I am going make a roller off the front crossmember (right in front of the winch). The cable will go over that and then down to a sheave mounted on the axle tube and then around that and up to the ORD engine crossmember. I will add a piece to the engine crossmember for a d-ring to attach to.
For the rear I am going to make a crossmember mount for the suck down winch and have that inverted near the top of the frame rail close to the original location of the factory bumpstops which have alreay been moved rearward ~3". The cable will go right from the roller fairlead to a sheave mounted off the top back diff cover and then almost straight up to another crossmember with a d-ring attachment point.
Both of these scenarios have me pulling down on the frame directly over the axles where the springs have the most give.
Went ahead and ordered a bunch of little stuff this weekend for the Engo 12k winch and some sheaves for the suck down winches.
I will share some pics when all of that comes in.
For the front I am going make a roller off the front crossmember (right in front of the winch). The cable will go over that and then down to a sheave mounted on the axle tube and then around that and up to the ORD engine crossmember. I will add a piece to the engine crossmember for a d-ring to attach to.
For the rear I am going to make a crossmember mount for the suck down winch and have that inverted near the top of the frame rail close to the original location of the factory bumpstops which have alreay been moved rearward ~3". The cable will go right from the roller fairlead to a sheave mounted off the top back diff cover and then almost straight up to another crossmember with a d-ring attachment point.
Both of these scenarios have me pulling down on the frame directly over the axles where the springs have the most give.
Went ahead and ordered a bunch of little stuff this weekend for the Engo 12k winch and some sheaves for the suck down winches.
I will share some pics when all of that comes in.
Felt like getting out in the garage for a couple hours today while the kids took naps.
Finally got around to doing some much needed garage cleaning and decorating.
Got this awesome used cord reel that I need to put some plug ends on. It will get power from one of the two circuits I have in my load control center box. My 110 welder gets power from the other circuit.
Plan for tonight and tomorrow is to get some serious progress made on the tubing bender. I stalled out on it for a while but really need to get it finished ASAP.
Plan for tonight and tomorrow is to get some serious progress made on the tubing bender. I stalled out on it for a while but really need to get it finished ASAP.
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Just saw your episode of Xtreme Off-Road on Spike. Looks like Ian's trailer set-up to go help people is freaking sweet
Crap, they never told me an air date so I didn't know to watch it live. I normally watch the episodes online so I am always a week behind.
Bender progress as promised
Got my swing arm welded together and all the holes clearanced. Using two 7/8 pins for alignment purposes but only one will actually be used for operation.
Main pivot tabs welded on
Inside gets ground smooth for swing arm to ride against.
Starting to actually look like something
The 5/8 grade 8 bolt is what the air over hydraulic ram mounts to at the swing arm
This is a cool shot that shows how everything is coming together
Just using the one piece under the 5/8 bolt to show how the swing arm will swing
The 5/8 grade 8 bolt is what the air over hydraulic ram mounts to at the swing arm
This is a cool shot that shows how everything is coming together
Just using the one piece under the 5/8 bolt to show how the swing arm will swing
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