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DO NOT OPEN IN PUBLIC, YOU WILL BECOME INSTANTLY ERECT!!!

Overview Gallery Discussion
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Got the gusset pieces welded on and drilled. Have to grind all this down smooth so the plate can go back on.

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Top side still needs the flange nuts welded on

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Got all the holes laid out, drilled, and countersunk in the plate.

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Don't know if that's enough hardware holding this thing up or not, hahaha.

Threw this stuff on the bathroom scale to see what kind of weight we are looking at so far. Plate is 40lbs and rib cage is 51lbs. That's without hardware and frame tie plates so I'd say the total combo is going to be about 100lbs when finished plus the weight of the side plate I still need to figure out. Really not that bad in my mind. I tried to keep it as streamlined as possible and I did only use 1/8" box tube since I knew it was going to get the 1/4" skid underneath to give it some added strength and protection. I may still get some 3/8 UHMW to throw on top of the plate so I don't chew it up real bad and have to replace it. I went ahead and did the countersinking in the 1/4 plate so I am covered either way.
 
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Recouping from Moab EJS 2016. Got some parts while I was away so now my oil system should be pretty much complete and ready to install once I am ready for final assembly in a couple months.

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Flow is as follows: 90* out of oil pan and into dual filter setup pictured bottom left. Leave dual filter assembly and go into oil cooler bypass valve. Oil cooler loop leaves bottom right of bypass valve and enters bottom of oil cooler with a fan control thermostat fitting. Oil leaves cooler at top and 45s back down to oil bypass valve. Oil leaves bypass valve and enters T fitting with 1 way check valve. Oil Ts up to 3qt accumulator with an electrically controlled ball valve to trap oil in the accumulator when key is turned to off position for prelube purposes. Oil leaves T fitting at left and returns to 2nd 90* fitting at oil pan. Every fitting is -10AN or 1/2NPT to -10AN conversion and all hose is -10AN in between components.

Now I just have to find room for all this dang stuff in the engine compartment.
 
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skunked said:
UPDATES!!!??
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Epic fail on working on this over the past few months as intended. Wound up working a ton of overtime May through now and what little free time I had got spent on go cart stuff. Leaving for vacation tomorrow and hopefully when I get back I will have the motivation and time to get back on it.

My 6 yr old boy is itching for me to get this thing done ASAP so I can pick him up from school in it
 
truck-oholic said:
Epic fail on working on this over the past few months as intended. Wound up working a ton of overtime May through now and what little free time I had got spent on go cart stuff. Leaving for vacation tomorrow and hopefully when I get back I will have the motivation and time to get back on it.

My 6 yr old boy is itching for me to get this thing done ASAP so I can pick him up from school in it
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I hear ya, I've been in a similar situation myself less the go kart distraction....

My 9 year loves getting picked up in the truck from school, especially with the tube doors on :D

Enjoy the vacation.
 
Ugh, looks like I am going to have to go back through this thread and rehost all the pictures on CK5 instead of Facebook so they show up again.

Anyway, it's been a long while since i've actively worked on this thing but I do have some small updates that occurred while i've been working on other projects (go carts).

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Got tired of waiting on Trailworthy Fab to come out with their logo'd drive flanges (problems with production) so I just picked up some 35 spline East Coast Gear Supply units for about $205 shipped.

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These drive flanges are designed with a spacer that let's you remove the drive flanges but retain the cap for street driving. Not as convenient as locking hubs but the cost savings and reliability drove me to this option.

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Here is a pic with the spacer that stays in place when the drive flange is removed so the cap can stay.

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Pretty nice finish on the caps.

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That completely finishes out the front axle now.

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Also traded into some heavy duty 2" wheel spacers for the rear axle to even out the track width front and rear.
 
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Well, the pics are terrible because of no daylight but figured you guys would want to see them anyway. I took the plate off, trimmed some excess, cleaned up the edges with a flap wheel and then bolted it back up once the"rib cage" was in place. Tomorrow I need to weld the front tie-in pieces to the frame bottom and then this whole thing can come back out followed by the entire drivetrain. Once everything is out, I'll bolt the rib cage back in place and do all my other frame boxing and tie-ins. Next time the drivetrain goes back in will be final assembly.

Pics below are all at simulated full driveshaft bump. I'll take some better pics tomorrow in the daylight at ride height.

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Daytime ride height pics as promised.

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Burned these in after work today

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Plenty of room for that HAD driveshaft

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Clearance is tight for those long tubes but they squeak in there

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I like this pic because that is a stock 8.5" tall oil pan and the armored oil pan I built is only 6.5" tall so it will be that much more out of the way and protected

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Doesn't hang down TOO far but it's no true flat belly either

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I need to come visit some weekend and check this thing out in person.......looking good!
 
Heavyleft said:
I need to come visit some weekend and check this thing out in person.......looking good!
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It's really not that impressive, I just know how to take good pics :D. Anyway, if you're serious, let me know, we can have some go cart fun too. Price of admission is a 12 pack of your choosing though, just no Bud products :deal:
 
truck-oholic said:
It's really not that impressive, I just know how to take good pics :D. Anyway, if you're serious, let me know, we can have some go cart fun too. Price of admission is a 12 pack of your choosing though, just no Bud products :deal:
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Bud products is so "I just turned 21" (to keep it legal..lol), but its a deal!
 
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