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Driveline noise: Transmission or dif? 12 bolt or 10?

Seal comes out with a screwdriver if you don't have a seal puller. Tap a flathead screwdriver under the outer lip (metal) of the seal and twist a little until it comes up. Then go 180 degrees to the other side of the seal and repeat. Kepp doing this a little at a time and the seal will 'walk' out. The bearing will come out by hand after that, but the races will have to be punched out with a drift or something similar. Don't be afraid to use a steel drift to get the old races out, but DON'T use a steel punch to put new races in. Use brass or a race installer you can borrow from autozone. Good luck.

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Got one more possible piece of bad news for you.
before you do anything else, check the front end.......

if the rear end had water in it..................
 
I would just look for a set of 3/4 ton axles. I don't care for half ton junk. It breaks too easily. 3.73 is the highest gear you will find in a set of 3/4 ton axles though.

Martin
 
I gotta agree on the 3/4 ton versus stock axles. I rebuilt 2 10 bolts (on a daily driver not a major wheeler) before I made my switch. Would have saved a ton of $ doing the swap to begin with. Honestly you really will be happy staying with the 3.73....I had 3.07 in one of my previous blazers and with 33" tires it sucked let alone 35's. Of course I live in a really hilly area.
 
yeah i'm feeling pretty confident staying with the 3.73 right now. thanks for the tips everyone. as far as going to 3/4 ton, i would except i need this car up and running asap. buying new parts opens up speedy shipping. i just don't have time to search around and leave it up to chance. i feel that these rebuilt 1/2 tons will serve me well enough and long enough before something really goes wrong with them. :D

this truck won't see anything more technical than a steep dirt hill.
 
Why not ask around for a complete 3.73 rear end? Way less work and if you find the right seller, way less money. Just be sure to look inside before you buy. Possibly somebody on here is getting ready to junk some 10 bolts.
 
i really appreciate the concern with my toothpick 1/2 tons and i completely understand. i wish i could go 3/4 but i am under an enormous time constraint and by ordering new parts from a vendor i can "insure" that the truck will be drivable by a certain date. i'm not even sure how to identify 3/4 axles and it would probably take an entire day at the yard. if i don't find any at the yard then i'm out a day of shipping for the new parts and out a day on my schedule. also i don't feel comfortable judging the condition of a junkyard axle. i fear buying and swapping something in that is on the cusp of wear and tear failure. sure these axles will be 1/2 tons, but they will be 1/2 tons with brand new bearings, seals, gears and a LSD hopefully. that peace of mind is worth the restriction on my off road capability. This is DD first, and then a camping/ranch car; i simply want it to handle snow and dirt really well.

i would be lying if i said i spent most of the day changing the brake shoes and wheel cylinders on the rear. i think i stared at this bearing for a solid hour and tapped around it with a screwdriver for another hour before giving up. i'm almost positive my bearing and seal kit will come with this bearing and race so i'm trying to get it out but have not had success. the stupid chilton book is of zero service. i tried to make sense of this but i'm a little slow:dunno:

rebelgregory said:
Seal comes out with a screwdriver if you don't have a seal puller. Tap a flathead screwdriver under the outer lip (metal) of the seal and twist a little until it comes up. Then go 180 degrees to the other side of the seal and repeat. Kepp doing this a little at a time and the seal will 'walk' out. The bearing will come out by hand after that, but the races will have to be punched out with a drift or something similar. Don't be afraid to use a steel drift to get the old races out, but DON'T use a steel punch to put new races in. Use brass or a race installer you can borrow from autozone. Good luck.
Click to expand...

still can't figure it out:frown1: also the larger race for the pinion gear seems to be unmovable.

20120812_222108.jpg


pics in trade for answers? :D

20120726_142224.jpg


20120810_095805.jpg
 
if that is the input bearing of the rear end, you can drive it out from behind if all else fails.
but you should not have to.
stick a prybar sideways between the bearing and seal and pry out.
there is no outer lip, it is pressed flush with the housing
 
As Fordum said, you have to pry it out, use a sheeps foot, or you can use a coal chisel, tap on one said so the other starts to pop out, and if all fails punch it out from the back side.
 
yakmastermax said:
see that dirt filled gap in the picture? is that where it is supposed to seperate? i feel like a moron that i can't get this thing.
Click to expand...


In the picture you see there is a thin gap that goes around the seal and is just inside the housing, the seal will separate there, it wont com easy it is going to take a little work, especially with all that water and dirt build up. After that seal comes out the bearing will come out easily, and then you will have to punch out the race.
 
Picture of pinion seal removal using seal puller:
picture.php


Exploded view of rear Diff:
picture.php


Picture of a seal with the lip that was described:
picture.php

Picture of seal with no lip as you have:
picture.php

The exploded view I cant recall if its for a 10 bolt, but it serves as a rough guideline and as I recall it a 10 bolt, I dont work on them much anymore as I chose to go the 14 bolt route. Hope it helps,
 
got the new bearings, gears, and carrier in. i've still to remove that last seal and bearing from the race but it could be from lack of trying:whistle:

reinstalling the old carrier seemed simple enough, just slide the axles in and slip the C-clip on to the end of the axle but with the new LSD unit i'm not sure how to go about this.

also a heads up on the brand new Richmond gear excel ring and pinion: it is indian made and in honesty does not feel like quality. if i had known this is advance (probably could have done more research) i would have spent the time and money at a yard pulling some used 3.73.

anyway, the LSD looks nice and beefy though. hopefully we'll be driving by monday! without any clunking noises!

20120817_011433.jpg


20120817_011017.jpg



Also thanks K5-CJ5! your post has been super informative and valuable. i'm just being lazy that's all!

Fordum said:
Got one more possible piece of bad news for you.
before you do anything else, check the front end.......

if the rear end had water in it..................
Click to expand...

good news, the front looked fine. aside from being filled with ATF (that normal?) there was no rust or evidence of water inside. all the teeth looked good. it is also an open dif (who knew this truck was open both front and back?). really quick i was wondering about the application of a posi in the front. do people do this? does it help with traction in loose situations (not tire off ground). can i pull a posi from a rear end 10 bolt and put it in front?

thanks again all for the help.
 
also when should i torque down the ring gear bolts? outside of the housing on a table or something or in the housing with the axles installed? i found a video of a Chrysler LSD installation and the guy put the C-clips in through that window, in the middle of those springs. i don't think that will fit on mine though because my springs are much closer together.
 
yakmastermax said:
also when should i torque down the ring gear bolts? outside of the housing on a table or something or in the housing with the axles installed? i found a video of a Chrysler LSD installation and the guy put the C-clips in through that window, in the middle of those springs. i don't think that will fit on mine though because my springs are much closer together.
Click to expand...


No prob on the info anytime! Install the ring gear on the carrier prior to installing in the housing. You should be able to get the c clip in after you have the gears set-up correctly.
 
Oh as far as a rear posi from the rear fitting int he front, yes as long as its the same spline count. Some of the front 10 bolts are a 30 spline (not sure of the years (some are a 28 spline. So you need the correct one. Other than that it will fit. Limited slip in the front is as least aggressive as you can get and not have an open diff. If you have locking hubs, the limited slip wont affect street driving.
 
K5-CJ5 said:
You should be able to get the c clip in after you have the gears set-up correctly.
Click to expand...

in CK5 we trust:D


good to know about the posi in front however after further research i'm thinking a real locker in front is the best bet.

also any tips on installing the bearings onto the carrier? can i just hammer them on? does autozone or oreilly rent a tool for it?
 
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My first Ford had Limited Slip in the front and rear. If I was driving with the hubs turned, I could tell a difference in the steering.
It was not bad enough for me to not drive it that way, but it was noticeable and in a DD, I would make sure the hubs were unlocked before driving it in town.
Especially if it were raining.

Having said that, there are a few hard core, off road only trucks here I have heard about that have lockers or even welded front ends.

But, those would not be safe on the road with the hubs locked. As long as the hubs worked though, it does not matter what level you run in the front for daily driving.

If you live in an area where street driving in 4wd is common, such as snow country, I would tend to avoid aggressive front end lockers.
 
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