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Dual Battery Hard to Sart...Suggestions??

boz42

boz42

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I am currently running 2 batteries with a painless wiring battery isolator. I am not happy with this set-up because I believe I am getting a lot of voltage drop from the batteries to the starter. Once the engine is hot it does not like to turn over very fast. The engine is a 540 cubic inch caddy with a few more than 1000 miles on it. I do understand that I am asking a lot from my starter, but I do believe it can do better.

I am planning on re-wiring the batteries using 2 continuous heavy duty master disconnect switches. I bought them from Napa. They are part # SW33. The switches also have seperate poles for the Alternator charge wire.(To drop it out first as to not blow the diodes in the alt.)

The facts as it is wired now:
1. 2/0 gauge from each battery to battery iso, 2/0 ga wire from iso to starter. 2/0 wire is fine strand & new.
2. Batteries are fully charged
3. Engine has a good ground from block to frame. It is also 2/0 ga wire.
4. Each battery has a 2/0 ga ground to frame.

Any suggestions? The more I think about it while I type the more I think I prolly just need a ground running from the engine all the way to the batteries. What do y'all think?

This is a diagram of how I plan to wire it this time. I am thinking about re-wire it either way. I would like my winches to be tied into a disconnect in case a solenoid was to hang. (It has happened to me before)
 

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  • Battery wiring diagram.bmp
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a batteries main ground should always run to the motor, than a jumper from motor to frame...

didn'tr check your diagram, but do you have a gear reduction starter in there? I'm guessing that motor would like one...
 
ryoken said:
a batteries main ground should always run to the motor, than a jumper from motor to frame...
Click to expand...
It makes sense because the starter motor and the alternator are both grounded to the motor, but it makes one wonder why the trunk mount battery kits that are sold only have a short ground.
 
I know I'll catch he!! from the choir, but I'm not a believer in using the frame as the bat grd... I've seen issues with it... ESPECIALLY with high compression motors... I did it in my Chevelle for a bit, and it worked... but on a whole, why take the chance? just run it to the block...
 
I run a ground wire from the frame to the battery, and the motor, and the body, with both of my batteries, firm believer in you can't have to many grounds.
 
ryoken said:
I know I'll catch he!! from the choir, but I'm not a believer in using the frame as the bat grd... I've seen issues with it... ESPECIALLY with high compression motors... I did it in my Chevelle for a bit, and it worked... but on a whole, why take the chance? just run it to the block...
Click to expand...

kgblazerfive said:
I run a ground wire from the frame to the battery, and the motor, and the body, with both of my batteries, firm believer in you can't have to many grounds.
Click to expand...

This is what I was thinking after I typed it all out. I am gonna try that tonite.
 
I concur, you need a GOOD CLEAN ground directly from the battery to the engine, then a ground strap from the engine to the body and another from the engine to the frame. The battery cable should have a 10 GA wire on it also that should get hooked to the radiator support.
 
This may not be related, but on an old Scout my dad used to own the same thing would occur. When it got hot, it was hard to start.

It turns out the starter motor was being overheated by the headers which were running nearby, causing the thing to expand internally. As a result, it would not turn over at all some times until it cooled down.

The solution was to add a heat shield over the starter, which was a $10 fix.
 
Thanks, but I did think of that & it does have one. I still think it may be getting hotter than it likes.
 
I have been running a ground wire from the battery directly to one of the mounting bolts that holds the starter to the engine. Seems to have helped me some with starting issues.

My crewcab caddy used to do the same thing. Ended up being a little bit of heat soak in the mini starter and a little bit of timing.
 
MANY dizzle starters have a stud right in the case of the starter for a grd...
 
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