Recon!
Maniac
Looking good!
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Dual Circuit Windstar Fan - Final Shroud Update 05/11/11
- Thread starter Lunatic
- Start date
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Thanks, recon!. The distribution blocks turned into some bling bling didnt they ? 
You should see them in person (again) - Silky smooth with a high gloss.
Which is the next set of pics I'll bring to the table.
----------------------------------------------
I have been wanting to add some power distirbution blocks to my electrical system for quite some time but had no actual use for them - Until now.
I already have a LMC heavy duty headlight harness installed, and another battery tap for my trailer winch as well. With the fan circuit and then an electric pump to follow, the battery post will be crowded and ghetto looking.
Heres the solution, which will be mounted on the inner fender of the driver's side.
A piece of metal stock - 1/8"x1"x24"
Cut to size - About 6" - And marked for drilling.
Drilled
A sheet of white (rated) plastic - 1/4" thick x what used to be 24"x48"
Pieces cut and marked - A piece of black (rated) plastic (again, from a larger sheet) joins the picture - 1/8" thick.
Drilled, cut, dremeled, and ready for assembly.
A picture of the fitting idea.
Another....
One more.....
The making of the studs. After tapping the holes, I used carriage bolts (1/4-20 x 2ea, 5/16-18 x 2ea, 3/8-16 x 1ea) for a completely threaded stud - Longer bolts have smooth shanks so they wouldnt work for this.
Cut flush, leaving 3/4" long studs.
Final assembly.
Shaping the block.
Primed 3 times, gap filled and sanded between each. I used extra bolts to cap the holes.
Painted. Finished sanding grit of 500 chased with three color coats (black or red), then three final clearcoats of high gloss enamel. The studs are held in place with red locktite and are using pressure lock nuts (Spin freely until pressure is applied once tight)
Thats it for now.
Questions and comments are welcome
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
You should see them in person (again) - Silky smooth with a high gloss.Which is the next set of pics I'll bring to the table.
----------------------------------------------
I have been wanting to add some power distirbution blocks to my electrical system for quite some time but had no actual use for them - Until now.
I already have a LMC heavy duty headlight harness installed, and another battery tap for my trailer winch as well. With the fan circuit and then an electric pump to follow, the battery post will be crowded and ghetto looking.
Heres the solution, which will be mounted on the inner fender of the driver's side.
A piece of metal stock - 1/8"x1"x24"
Cut to size - About 6" - And marked for drilling.
Drilled
A sheet of white (rated) plastic - 1/4" thick x what used to be 24"x48"
Pieces cut and marked - A piece of black (rated) plastic (again, from a larger sheet) joins the picture - 1/8" thick.
Drilled, cut, dremeled, and ready for assembly.
A picture of the fitting idea.
Another....
One more.....
The making of the studs. After tapping the holes, I used carriage bolts (1/4-20 x 2ea, 5/16-18 x 2ea, 3/8-16 x 1ea) for a completely threaded stud - Longer bolts have smooth shanks so they wouldnt work for this.
Cut flush, leaving 3/4" long studs.
Final assembly.
Shaping the block.
Primed 3 times, gap filled and sanded between each. I used extra bolts to cap the holes.
Painted. Finished sanding grit of 500 chased with three color coats (black or red), then three final clearcoats of high gloss enamel. The studs are held in place with red locktite and are using pressure lock nuts (Spin freely until pressure is applied once tight)
Thats it for now.
Questions and comments are welcome
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Recon!
Maniac
Wow, they look awesome and I see you redesigned them from what we had going on last week.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Moving into the physical mounting of the fan now. As already seen - It is hanging by wire where I want it mounted - Centered.
Prior to even placing the fan into the engine bay though, I removed the old fan shroud (and clutch fan) and started looking for mounting possibilities. The passenger side support is easy enough - It is flat and solid.
The drivers side support however, sent me to the mental drawling board. With all the factory holes in this support, I had no place to mount the type of bracket I will be making.
What follows - Is my solution.
------------------------------------
Holes - Too many and too big !
First, it needs to be flat.
Now that it's a flat surface, I need to fabricate some way to mount the fan to it.
1/4" 7076 aluminum. It only took about an hour to cut the length with this jigsaw
Once I finished cutting the aluminum, it needed to be squared up. I used a dremel router attachment, mounted upside down, under the work surface, with a high speed cutting bit, as a horizontal planer of sorts. It took many passes - But you can see the results below.
Any reflection is an uneven/unsquared edge.
Nice and squared off.
I used a cardboard template and masking tape to transfer all the holes that this mount would be covering - So I could reference where the mount could be drilled.
New mounting holes drilled.
Counter sunk the mounting holes.
More coming - This just in - 20 pic limit per post........
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Prior to even placing the fan into the engine bay though, I removed the old fan shroud (and clutch fan) and started looking for mounting possibilities. The passenger side support is easy enough - It is flat and solid.
The drivers side support however, sent me to the mental drawling board. With all the factory holes in this support, I had no place to mount the type of bracket I will be making.
What follows - Is my solution.
------------------------------------
Holes - Too many and too big !
First, it needs to be flat.
Now that it's a flat surface, I need to fabricate some way to mount the fan to it.
1/4" 7076 aluminum. It only took about an hour to cut the length with this jigsaw
Once I finished cutting the aluminum, it needed to be squared up. I used a dremel router attachment, mounted upside down, under the work surface, with a high speed cutting bit, as a horizontal planer of sorts. It took many passes - But you can see the results below.
Any reflection is an uneven/unsquared edge.
Nice and squared off.
I used a cardboard template and masking tape to transfer all the holes that this mount would be covering - So I could reference where the mount could be drilled.
New mounting holes drilled.
Counter sunk the mounting holes.
More coming - This just in - 20 pic limit per post........
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So anyway....
Drilled new holes for the fan bracket to mount to.
With inserts installed.
Mounted using 3/16 steel countersunk rivets - Theyre not coming off any time soon. The aluminum plate also received a cleaning and then two coats of clear gloss enamel paint.
So whats next ? Back to mounting the fan itself. I already have the drivers side bracket template made, waiting to transfer to the aluminum sheet (1/8" 6061 btw).
But thats (again) it for now. Im caught up to myself at this point - No more pics until I progress further.
Questions and comments are welcome.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Drilled new holes for the fan bracket to mount to.
With inserts installed.
Mounted using 3/16 steel countersunk rivets - Theyre not coming off any time soon. The aluminum plate also received a cleaning and then two coats of clear gloss enamel paint.
So whats next ? Back to mounting the fan itself. I already have the drivers side bracket template made, waiting to transfer to the aluminum sheet (1/8" 6061 btw).
But thats (again) it for now. Im caught up to myself at this point - No more pics until I progress further.
Questions and comments are welcome.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
Recon!
Maniac
The new ones look great!
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Gaining momentum
I put this together Friday night - Used it today.
The left radiator mounting bracket is all but done, needing only cosmetic touches at this point. I will post pics of that tomorrow (possibly)
Heres the metal brake I built.
More to come - Soon
EDIT
I failed to mention what I used to make the brake.
Your standard pick-up-at-Lowes 3/16" angle iron (was 3'), 3 heavy duty commercial door hinges, 1/4" steel rivets, and 3/8-16 bolts + hardware.
That is 6061-T6 1/8" aluminum that is approximately 2" wide - It didnt bend like a butter stick, but it didnt take terrible effort either.
END EDIT
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
I put this together Friday night - Used it today.
The left radiator mounting bracket is all but done, needing only cosmetic touches at this point. I will post pics of that tomorrow (possibly)
Heres the metal brake I built.
More to come - Soon
EDIT
I failed to mention what I used to make the brake.
Your standard pick-up-at-Lowes 3/16" angle iron (was 3'), 3 heavy duty commercial door hinges, 1/4" steel rivets, and 3/8-16 bolts + hardware.
That is 6061-T6 1/8" aluminum that is approximately 2" wide - It didnt bend like a butter stick, but it didnt take terrible effort either.
END EDIT
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
Nice build you have going here brother! Attention to detail is awesome. Got some fab skills too. Very impressed. Nice brake method aswell. Keep the pics coming, but you will have to compete with ME on the pic whoring my freind .
.
I got my distribution blocks off a new body style Chevy truck or sub at pick a part.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the compliments, rdn2blazer.
Details come from building computer case schemes / systems for the past 5 years. While I may not have jumped in quite as deep as this guy, it was still an enjoyable pass-time.
Here's an example (build thread) of the hobby.
mnstrburbon - Seeing that pic gives me an idea...
As you can see in the 6th pic below, I cracked my positive terminal block.
I wasnt paying close enough attention when mounting it and as a consequence, the bolt - Which is drilled through a slightly angled section of the grill support - pulled true to the support, tweaking the block, which "cracked" it.
I say "cracked" because it isnt actually cracked, but the seam is. I might fix the seam, or I may just go to the bone yard to find what you have there. Im still undecided. But, your pic has given me an(other) idea.
Now, on to the current build............
The driver side fan mount bracket.
Notice the white line on the power block. It runs straight down, parallel to the outer edge. The seam cracked where the recess is.
The mounting tab looks like it's floating - But it isnt. If you look closely, you can see the original molding under the tab, laying flat on the bracket. Hard to see, but it is mounted solid. I may work some plastic magic to change the appearance - After everything is done.
I changed the spring nut.....design....... It still locks to the bracket to prevent spinning while tightening/loosening the screw, but doesnt clamp to the bracket anymore. Reasoning is below.
Some other things going on in my head too.
Firstly, while it looked cool initially (IMO), its already growing old on my eyes. Im speaking of the finish of the aluminum. I want the brackets to stand out from everything else in the engine bay, but coated with clear or not - The finish is not gonna work for me.
I dont really want to paint it black, but will if hard pressed on color choices. I've flipped between candies, metallics, and neons....and cant settle. Now Im popping a flare. What color would "you" paint the brackets ?
Also, between bouncing PMs back and forth to mnstrburbon, I'm going to post a new wiring diagram of a different technique. This will be the diagram I'll be using for the install.
QUOTE from PM transcript to mnstrburbon
You have 2 leads of power running to/through a relay - 1 to activate the relay switch - and 1 that passes across the contacts when the relay is active/thrown.
The amount of power (12vdc) to throw the relay contact doesn't concern me. 12vdc and nothing of amp (so minimal it doesn't rate, IMO) is "normal" operation.
The 30A power for the fans though - Going through the relay contact - Is what I was thinking about. I read something else on another site ......
Run an 8ga wire from the battery to the positive fan wires. Make sure to fuse the circuit. It should be fused as close to the battery as you can, within a couple feet of the battery at least.
From the ground side of the fans run a 10ga wire to the load side of the relays. On the other high current terminal run a 10ga wire to a GOOD ground point. Use dielectric grease on connections.
So, no heavy juice running through the relay. Switch the ground line instead of the heavy power line, no amps through the relay - A longer relay life - Even as it is rated to 30amps, this would seem to be a better choice.
END QUOTE
For anybody interested, here's the link for the Photobucket albums concerning this build.
Other than that - Tomorrow, Ill start a bracket template for the right side fan mount. Some time this week I would like to paint the driver bracket as well - Just have to choose a color.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Details come from building computer case schemes / systems for the past 5 years. While I may not have jumped in quite as deep as this guy, it was still an enjoyable pass-time.
Here's an example (build thread) of the hobby.
mnstrburbon - Seeing that pic gives me an idea...
As you can see in the 6th pic below, I cracked my positive terminal block. I wasnt paying close enough attention when mounting it and as a consequence, the bolt - Which is drilled through a slightly angled section of the grill support - pulled true to the support, tweaking the block, which "cracked" it.
I say "cracked" because it isnt actually cracked, but the seam is. I might fix the seam, or I may just go to the bone yard to find what you have there. Im still undecided. But, your pic has given me an(other) idea.
Now, on to the current build............
The driver side fan mount bracket.
Notice the white line on the power block. It runs straight down, parallel to the outer edge. The seam cracked where the recess is.
The mounting tab looks like it's floating - But it isnt. If you look closely, you can see the original molding under the tab, laying flat on the bracket. Hard to see, but it is mounted solid. I may work some plastic magic to change the appearance - After everything is done.
I changed the spring nut.....design....... It still locks to the bracket to prevent spinning while tightening/loosening the screw, but doesnt clamp to the bracket anymore. Reasoning is below.
Some other things going on in my head too.
Firstly, while it looked cool initially (IMO), its already growing old on my eyes. Im speaking of the finish of the aluminum. I want the brackets to stand out from everything else in the engine bay, but coated with clear or not - The finish is not gonna work for me.
I dont really want to paint it black, but will if hard pressed on color choices. I've flipped between candies, metallics, and neons....and cant settle. Now Im popping a flare. What color would "you" paint the brackets ?
Also, between bouncing PMs back and forth to mnstrburbon, I'm going to post a new wiring diagram of a different technique. This will be the diagram I'll be using for the install.
QUOTE from PM transcript to mnstrburbon
You have 2 leads of power running to/through a relay - 1 to activate the relay switch - and 1 that passes across the contacts when the relay is active/thrown.
The amount of power (12vdc) to throw the relay contact doesn't concern me. 12vdc and nothing of amp (so minimal it doesn't rate, IMO) is "normal" operation.
The 30A power for the fans though - Going through the relay contact - Is what I was thinking about. I read something else on another site ......
Run an 8ga wire from the battery to the positive fan wires. Make sure to fuse the circuit. It should be fused as close to the battery as you can, within a couple feet of the battery at least.
From the ground side of the fans run a 10ga wire to the load side of the relays. On the other high current terminal run a 10ga wire to a GOOD ground point. Use dielectric grease on connections.
So, no heavy juice running through the relay. Switch the ground line instead of the heavy power line, no amps through the relay - A longer relay life - Even as it is rated to 30amps, this would seem to be a better choice.
END QUOTE
For anybody interested, here's the link for the Photobucket albums concerning this build.
Other than that - Tomorrow, Ill start a bracket template for the right side fan mount. Some time this week I would like to paint the driver bracket as well - Just have to choose a color.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited by a moderator:
Your very welcome for the comps. That video is insane. That dude has some master model building and fabrication skills. There is some serious time in that case he did. I don't quite get the draw of building all that for a.....computer cover/case but two each hisown. The skill to do it I can respect immensely. Wish I knew more about mold forming and plastics and fiber glass work. That guy has got to be into special effects movie model building or something. Miniature set building. Looks like he's a master at it. Cool, interesting industry, Never thought there was a market for such a thing.
Do you have machining background? Are you self taught with sheetmetal fab? I personally love working working with sheetmetal of any kind. Stainless steel, aluminum, steel. I have myown methods of bending on a bench too. It's cool to amaze people with something like what you have bent up just on a work bench.
Those brackets and the build are insane,, are you going to reproduce and sell them possibly.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
rdn2blazer - I am what I call "self taught and self sufficient". Back when I was building PC cases, I was known (by my wife) to sit at one of my two benches and ......... just sit. I was thinking, looking over what was in front of me, trying to create a way to do whatever it was I determined needed to happen. But I also wanted a way to do it equal or better than how I had always seen it presented online or in magazines.
The biggest trick of it all - For the most part the solutions I came up with were with whatever I had in my garage. Plastics, composite paneling, metals... Ill figure out how to work it if I havent before - And it will look OEM. Ive been contacted by businesses about some of the things Ive created (Whilst their thoughts of it being "created" the usual way).
I used to run radio controlled touring cars (My own topped out at 67.3 mph, says the local police that stopped in the parking lot). While I was in that hobby, I created an aluminum chassis and upper deck which moved the fuel cell to center, the steering servo to front center but vertical, and also allowed for a dogbone driveline instead of belts. HPI started tracking me and the progress.
They then contacted me once I finished - Wanted to see it in person. I had to turn them down for many reasons of my own. But, imagine my surprise when HPI came out with the RS4 replacement - Designed as my own. Associated followed suit. And I was kicking dirt.
Lesson learned I guess. I still have the pride and the story.
So, in short - If I dont have the means of making something, I sit and think. Ask mnstrburbon about my thinking. We hashed out the wiring diagram weeks ago. I just contacted him again the other day about another way to wire up - Because I was still thinking about it. Good is not good enough for me. Now that Im actually satisfied with the wiring "ways" - I feel I can move on.
mnstrburbon - Thanks for the kind words and the continued help. I said it post # 12 to Big Blzn - "It will look factory installed". At this point - I think it looks much better than that. And honestly - If you really like the first bracket, youre gonna be thrilled with the rest of it - Its only going to get better looking as it nears completion with a second bracket and then fiberglassing.
As for reproduction runs - I can say I saw that coming. Whether it happens or not however.....Im still thinking. If I decide to do some more, say a kit form, Ill be sure to let you know.
Here's the "other" wiring diagram. The relays switch the grounds of the fans instead of the heavy load pulling power wires. Should make for a longer relay life.
So what about colors ? Nobody has thrown any out there yet. Im leaning towards a metallic silver at this point. I'll lose the texture look of the buffed aluminum, but retain the opposing color. Any ideas ?
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
The biggest trick of it all - For the most part the solutions I came up with were with whatever I had in my garage. Plastics, composite paneling, metals... Ill figure out how to work it if I havent before - And it will look OEM. Ive been contacted by businesses about some of the things Ive created (Whilst their thoughts of it being "created" the usual way).
I used to run radio controlled touring cars (My own topped out at 67.3 mph, says the local police that stopped in the parking lot). While I was in that hobby, I created an aluminum chassis and upper deck which moved the fuel cell to center, the steering servo to front center but vertical, and also allowed for a dogbone driveline instead of belts. HPI started tracking me and the progress.
They then contacted me once I finished - Wanted to see it in person. I had to turn them down for many reasons of my own. But, imagine my surprise when HPI came out with the RS4 replacement - Designed as my own. Associated followed suit. And I was kicking dirt.
Lesson learned I guess. I still have the pride and the story.
So, in short - If I dont have the means of making something, I sit and think. Ask mnstrburbon about my thinking. We hashed out the wiring diagram weeks ago. I just contacted him again the other day about another way to wire up - Because I was still thinking about it. Good is not good enough for me. Now that Im actually satisfied with the wiring "ways" - I feel I can move on.
mnstrburbon - Thanks for the kind words and the continued help. I said it post # 12 to Big Blzn - "It will look factory installed". At this point - I think it looks much better than that. And honestly - If you really like the first bracket, youre gonna be thrilled with the rest of it - Its only going to get better looking as it nears completion with a second bracket and then fiberglassing.
As for reproduction runs - I can say I saw that coming. Whether it happens or not however.....Im still thinking.
If I decide to do some more, say a kit form, Ill be sure to let you know.Here's the "other" wiring diagram. The relays switch the grounds of the fans instead of the heavy load pulling power wires. Should make for a longer relay life.
So what about colors ? Nobody has thrown any out there yet. Im leaning towards a metallic silver at this point. I'll lose the texture look of the buffed aluminum, but retain the opposing color. Any ideas ?
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So here is the latest. The fan is mounted entirely now.
Neither bracket is fully finished yet - But that is something which will wait until everything is done completely. I havent decided if I want to polish them smooth and mirrored or paint - I flip daily.
But, now its time to move on to the power.... something (hmm)
Here's some pics.
I needed to transfer the location of the cooler lines to the bracket - I measured three times for the first points - And nailed the centers (whew). This was a main concern of mine being that I felt it could make or break the appearance.
Here are some pics of the right/passenger side bracket.
And some pics of the fan mounted....Now - I feel that I need to replace my cooler lines !
I'll take some pics of long shots tomorrow - From each side.
Stay tuned - Its only getting better !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Neither bracket is fully finished yet - But that is something which will wait until everything is done completely. I havent decided if I want to polish them smooth and mirrored or paint - I flip daily.
But, now its time to move on to the power.... something (hmm)
Here's some pics.
I needed to transfer the location of the cooler lines to the bracket - I measured three times for the first points - And nailed the centers (whew). This was a main concern of mine being that I felt it could make or break the appearance.
Here are some pics of the right/passenger side bracket.
And some pics of the fan mounted....Now - I feel that I need to replace my cooler lines !
I'll take some pics of long shots tomorrow - From each side.
Stay tuned - Its only getting better !
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Last edited:
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
As mentioned - Full side shots......
Driver's side
Passenger's side
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Driver's side
Passenger's side
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Recon!
Maniac
Looking good!
Killer job man, very clean, nice work. Great attention to detail. I like the way you fab brother.
ZJumper
Registered Member
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
I still have a number of things to do before I consider it all finished.
* Fiberglass a full shroud.
* Move all circuits (old and new) to centralized location (Working this right now)
* Finish the ..."finish" appearance of the brackets. Latest idea is powder coat or anodizing - Leaning towards anodizing - Been there in the past with the RC touring car I mentioned earlier.
And thats not everything coming. I still have a 'noisey' direct drive going in afterwards and an electric water pump chasing that. And the XJ column somewhere in between.
Nothin to it.
Thanks for the compliments. Comments and suggestions welcome of course.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
* Fiberglass a full shroud.
* Move all circuits (old and new) to centralized location (Working this right now)
* Finish the ..."finish" appearance of the brackets. Latest idea is powder coat or anodizing - Leaning towards anodizing - Been there in the past with the RC touring car I mentioned earlier.
And thats not everything coming. I still have a 'noisey' direct drive going in afterwards and an electric water pump chasing that. And the XJ column somewhere in between.
Nothin to it.
Thanks for the compliments. Comments and suggestions welcome of course.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
