sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Damn
. No wonder a HAD shaft cost what it does. Material plus labor and shipping, add to that profit margin (we all know people dont have businesses just for the fun of it) and it all begins to make scense
Dik
CK5
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eBay 1350 C/V shafts
- Thread starter Blue85
- Start date
Damn
. No wonder a HAD shaft cost what it does. Material plus labor and shipping, add to that profit margin (we all know people dont have businesses just for the fun of it) and it all begins to make scenseDik
Damn
Dik
HAD also machines the parts to fit...Labor is time consuming also.
Which brings me back to my original point that $325 is a good price. You get the joint, 7" slip, .083 tube (same thickness as HAD) and U-joint, all assembled, balanced and shipped for that price.
I will probably get one. I ordered a front shaft from Tallon and I will post up some pics when it arrives.
I will probably get one. I ordered a front shaft from Tallon and I will post up some pics when it arrives.
reddog64
1/2 ton status
I'm using .250 wall DOM. I'd be scared to run .083 wall tube....
5" slip
See post #11. The difference is that HAD charges a little less for this upgrade. If you're talking .125 from both vendors, HAD is only about $85 more total cost.
I have been running a stock 1350 Suburban driveshaft for a long time with no problems. Is that much thicker than .083? Somebody said stock Chevy rears were about .09?
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Next time I drive the 'Burb to work I'll UT (ultrasonically check) the shaft and post exactly how thick it is.
1991 V2500.
1991 V2500.
Cool.
I got the front shaft. Turn-around was really quick - I gave him the measurements on Wednesday and it was on my doorstep on Saturday.
Here are pics next to my spare (stock, coarse spline) front shaft for comparison.
Tubing is 2" .120 wall.
The splines seem almost endless on this thing compared to stock and the diameter is larger as well.
The C/V joint is slightly larger for some reason. I don't know if that means anything or not. The best I can measure, it will go to 23 degrees before anything makes contact.
Looks nice, I wonder who makes the parts...
AddictedOffroad
1/2 ton status
I've used them on several shafts.
I ran a 1410 shafts on my old Excursion. Also use them for my Toyota driveshafts for the solid axle conversions I do. Good product IMO.
I have to order one tomorrow in fact.
I ran a 1410 shafts on my old Excursion. Also use them for my Toyota driveshafts for the solid axle conversions I do. Good product IMO.
I have to order one tomorrow in fact.
Rear shaft arrived today (Monday) after I gave him the measurements on Thursday.
I requested that the 1350 C/V mate with a 3R flange, so now I run the same (and easy-to-find) 32-spline flange on both outputs of the T-case.
Here's the 1350 C/V joint:
Here's the 7" slip spline with the 1350 yoke:
But the best part is that now my rig runs smooth down the street. I hammered it off the line a few times (I have stock rear springs that wrap easily) and got it up to 60MPH with no vibrations. I've been waiting years for this.
(Yes, I know there is a lot of mud down there)
I requested that the 1350 C/V mate with a 3R flange, so now I run the same (and easy-to-find) 32-spline flange on both outputs of the T-case.
Here's the 1350 C/V joint:
Here's the 7" slip spline with the 1350 yoke:
But the best part is that now my rig runs smooth down the street. I hammered it off the line a few times (I have stock rear springs that wrap easily) and got it up to 60MPH with no vibrations. I've been waiting years for this.
(Yes, I know there is a lot of mud down there)
