CK5
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Edelbrock Proflo 4
- Thread starter 6872xtc
- Start date
This is already getting too expensive.
water pump + fan + 89-95 serp belt setup with p/s pulley and crank and water pump + upper rad hose t-stat housing and hose .
bam serp belt all on the budget
bam serp belt all on the budget
What about the A-6 AC compressor I just dropped $400 on?
Pretty easy to spend somebody else's money. Plus if anybody has tried to install a late serpentine drive on a 70's era small block they'd know the heads aren't drilled for all the holes that one would need to install it. Just saying.
I've seen the stock bracket modified to fit. I remember having to slot the rear hole slightly to go on when I installed a performer intake on my Nova.
Does it keep the original piece that goes between the head and the lower mounting ear on the alternator? I wasn't sure if the bolt that comes with the bracket kit is that long.
I figured the belt might end up being different.
@Shawn, where do your fuel lines go from the ends of the rails? I was actually looking at doing the AN fitting on the heater hose too because I have an extra 45° left over from my various steering reservoirs over the years. I wasn't sure if a 90° would interfere with the fuel line coming off the fuel rail.
The fuel line comes into the fuel rail on the passenger side by distributor. Then I have the crossover line in front which goes to the drivers side fuel rail. From there it goes to the adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted on the firewall. Then from the regulator, it goes to the fuel return line back to the tank. Its a bit more work but makes it for a cleaner looking install. I already had the FPR from my old race car so I just re-used that instead of the one that came with Edelbrock kit.
As for the AN lines on the heater hoses, it was a PITA to find the larger 3/4" line to fit right. I think I had to use a rare -14 AN size since thats 3/4". To keep the costs down, I would look at doing a push lock style using normal heater hose. The AN hoses make it SO easy to remove but the costs add up and its a bitch to make the larger lines. You definitely need the alum. vice tool and alum. wrenches along with alum. adjustable wrench.
As for the AN lines on the heater hoses, it was a PITA to find the larger 3/4" line to fit right. I think I had to use a rare -14 AN size since thats 3/4". To keep the costs down, I would look at doing a push lock style using normal heater hose. The AN hoses make it SO easy to remove but the costs add up and its a bitch to make the larger lines. You definitely need the alum. vice tool and alum. wrenches along with alum. adjustable wrench.
Yeah, that's what I was going to do with the regular hose and push lock fitting. I did the same on the crew cab.
I couldn't put the cruddy old fittings back on the new manifold so if I'm going to buy something, I liked the AN idea.
The TBI tank I'm using has 1-3/4" filler hose, but the 73 filler neck is 1-3/8". Anyone figured out a way to adapt this? I haven't found anything with a little Google searching.
I would bet that a newer truck would have the proper filler neck diameter to match the tank. I seem to think that there was a difference in the early eighties models from the 70s trucks.
82-87 are larger than the earlier trucks. I have bought new fill hoses from fillernecksupply.com but it looks like they are out. They have all sorts of adapters and such if you can't find a new filler hose.
I ordered the newer, larger hose from Amazon and I'll have it tomorrow; this next day delivery stuff is new around here.
I was looking at my 89 crew cab this morning and the 3 screws that hold the metal filler neck to the bed side are the same pattern as the 73. So I'm thinking I could bolt a newer filler neck in my older truck. The only thing I didn't measure is if there's a difference in how far out the the metal protrusion is from the flange that mounts it to the bed; hopefully that's about the same. Catch is I don't have an extra new style filler neck and based on my last trip to the junkyard, it's doubtful I'll find one there. I can get a new one from LMC for $60; I'd rather not spend that if I can help it.
The other option is I think I might be able to fit the larger hose over the smaller hose. Basically use the small hose as an adapter for the large hose like I've seen done with radiator hose. It should work okay because of the direction of flow. If I was trying to go the other way around I don't think it would work without leaking.
I wouldn't mind trying the new style metal part because the 73 always over fills and spills gas if I let the pump stop with the automatic shutoff. I have to lean down and listen for when to shut the pump off manually. I've often wondered if that would stop happening with the new style filler neck.
I thought I would circle back on this with my $0.02.
I trimmed the front arm off the bracket for the additional return spring since it's not necessary. I'm going with a lokar throttle cable (worked well on my other K10) therefore the the OE square style bracket was swapped out for the optional round hole bracket. You'll notice the back side of that bracket is cut at an angle so I need to modify it so it's flat. I could also use some longer throttlebody studs with the added thickness of the bracket. For the price, I think it's worth it.
Here you can see the angle on the backside of the bracket that I need to modify.
