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Edelbrock Proflo 4

Thinking about the ECM mounting, I don't know if it's a real concern, but my thought is that it could be good to angle it so that the plug and wiring is downward slope from the ECM so that moisture doesn't ride the wires towards the ECM. Again, I am not positive if it is a valid concern.
 
Got it running and thru the setup wizard. They really want you to use their tablet. I'm using my phone and it took a bit of searching to find what to use for the PIN to pair. Here's where you can find the answer. https://forums.edelbrock.com/forum/...ouble-with-bluetooth-pairing-watch-this-video

2 problems I have are both fuel related, possibly from a common cause. The fuel pressure won't drop below 65 psi no matter what I do with the regulator.

20201116_190905.jpg

Other problem is a small fuel leak, looks to be from the return line at the sending unit.

I'm thinking the leak may go away if I can get the pressure down. I had a similar problem with the Sniper install in the crew cab. In that case it was a kinked return line.

Tomorrow I will pull the return line at the hard line by the motor, direct it into a gas can, and see if pressure drops. That'll tell me if it's at the tank like I'm suspecting. About the only other thing would be a bad out of the box regulator.
 
I sinked my phone in no time . And I am new to smart phones .

Hardest part is 6 # entered fast before time out .
 
It took me a few minutes to figure out the PIN too (I'm using a phone as well). I also got a bit confused by the set timing/unlock timing directions, but I got that sorted out on the second startup. I also learned that if you take too long to finish the Setup Wizard you have to start over. I started over 4 times until the engine fired for the first time. I had a helluva time with starter wiring, kept putting the ignition wire on the dead post of the starter . . .
 
sweetk30 said:
I sinked my phone in no time . And I am new to smart phones .

Hardest part is 6 # entered fast before time out .
Click to expand...
Once you know to use the 6 digit serial number for the PIN, it was quick and easy. I thought it was interesting they didn't mention it in the directions. I think this is the first thing I've bluetooth paired that wasn't the 0000 or 1234 option.
 
skunked said:
Is the serial # on the ECU?
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I didn't look there. You can see it when you start the pairing process on the list of available ECU. The 6 digits after the SN, include all zeros. So the pin below would be 000278

Screenshot_20201117-103736_Vivaldi.jpg
 
mrk5 said:
I didn't look there. You can see it when you start the pairing process on the list of available ECU. The 6 digits after the SN, include all zeros. So the pin below would be 000278

View attachment 360469
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I saw that on the video, I just wanted to snap a picture of the serial# for my file. I’ll take a look for it before I mount it.
 
mrk5 said:
Once you know to use the 6 digit serial number for the PIN, it was quick and easy. I thought it was interesting they didn't mention it in the directions. I think this is the first thing I've bluetooth paired that wasn't the 0000 or 1234 option.
Click to expand...
I don't recall having a problem, been using my phone, but later bought a tablet which I paired to it as well...
And you throw the old guy grief at me.
HA!
:D
 
I think I said it was easy once you know what the pairing code is supposed to be. :dunno:
 
I'm kinda debating about getting a Black Friday tablet. I kinda like having the gauge display from the EFI.
 
So I think I have my fuel pressure issue figured out. More conversion issues.

Last night I pulled the return off the hard line at the tank. I ran a hose from the hard line to the fuel filler and fuel pressure was good. I was able to get the adjustable regulator set properly. Also didn't have a leak.

I used an inspection mirror and looked for kinks in the return hose at the tank and couldn't find any sign of an issue. Called it a night. This morning I started thinking about the sending unit. What it boils down to is I have the return line on the vent for the sender. Here's why.

Sending unit for a TBI pickup with the saddle tanks like I have on the 89 crew cab:

FG05N.jpg

And this is the carb sender I'm using for the external pump:

Carb Sender FG05G.jpg

The thing to note is the return & vent lines. On the TBI sender they are 5/16" return and 1/4" vent. On the carb sender it reversed! I could have been tipped off when I tried to conned the vent hose from the sender to the existing hard line on the frame. I had to use a barbed adapter to go from 1/4" hose to 5/16" hose in order to get the hose to fit the factory vent line at the frame.

The fuel pressure is running high because it's trying to push the fuel thru that apparatus on the end of the vent line in the sender. I assume it's there to keep fuel out of the vent in a roll over type situation; probably not meant to flow much. In hindsight I can actually here it. I had noticed when I turn the key and the fuel pump comes on there was a lot of flow noise at the tank. I thought it seemed a little odd.

So now I'm debating about if a 1/4" return is sufficient. My Pro-Flow only needs 43psi, so it's not pushing a ton of fuel thru. Part of me feels like it would probably be fine. But the other part of me thinks about how the factory TBI is set up with 5/16" return. Aggravating thing is, I could easily swap the lines at the frame and be good to go. I could even do that and say that in the near future I'll drop the tank and do it up right, but if it worked I'd probably never touch it again.

In order to get 5/16" for the return, I'm not sure what would be the best approach. I could take the do-hicky off the vent so the existing 5/16" would flow freely, but then I would need to figure out a way to put the do-hicky on the 1/4" line. May I could use some hose and barbed adapters. Or abandon the 1/4" line on the sender and make up something with a bulkhead fitting.
 
If you were running a carb regulator with an EFI fuel pump it would not work because you likely couldn't turn the pressure down far enough, but since you are running 43 psi I would give it a try. It's not like you have 1/4" all the way, its only at the very end, as long as you can still turn the fuel pressure down to 43 psi with the engine off and fuel pump on, then you should be fine. Check it again with the engine idling and the vacuum reference unplugged. If it's too restrictive you'll have the same problem, you won't be able to turn the pressure down far enough.

When you get all done just hook the vacuum reference back up again.

One thing I would mention, typically you want the return to be sub fuel level, this prevents the fuel from getting aerated by pumping fuel in from above like a waterfall. So if you do take it apart, I would extend the return line down toward the bottom of the tank to keep it from bringing air into the fuel all the time. But I would not be afraid to try it as is first.
 
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folkenheath said:
If you were running a carb regulator with an EFI fuel pump it would not work because you likely couldn't turn the pressure down far enough, but since you are running 43 psi I would give it a try. It's not like you have 1/4" all the way, its only at the very end, as long as you can still turn the fuel pressure down to 43 psi with the engine off and fuel pump on, then you should be fine. Check it again with the engine idling and the vacuum reference unplugged. If it's too restrictive you'll have the same problem, you won't be able to turn the pressure down far enough.

When you get all done just hook the vacuum reference back up again.

One thing I would mention, typically you want the return to be sub fuel level, this prevents the fuel from getting aerated by pumping fuel in from above like a waterfall. So if you do take it apart, I would extend the return line down toward the bottom of the tank to keep it from bringing air into the fuel all the time. But I would not be afraid to try it as is first.
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I wondered how important it would be to extend the return down. If I used hose, would it need to be submersible tho?

Kain said:
time for something like this?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65385
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Funny, I was thinking I could redneck something like that! Or just leave the hose I have going around to the filler and just stuff a rag in there to hold it. I feel like that's what Roadkill would do. Haha
 
mrk5 said:
I wondered how important it would be to extend the return down. If I used hose, would it need to be submersible tho?


Funny, I was thinking I could redneck something like that! Or just leave the hose I have going around to the filler and just stuff a rag in there to hold it. I feel like that's what Roadkill would do. Haha
Click to expand...

Technically yes, because it will have fuel on the outside of it to break it down, and it could eventually fall apart in your tank. You could also use brake line and a compression coupler fitting. Although I wouldn't be afraid to try it without, just swap the return line and try it out the way it is. It might not be an issue.
 
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