CK5
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2 victories and 1 stalemate today.

Installed new plug wires; MSD Super Conductor 8.5mm wires.

View attachment 362777

Spendy, but I wanted to be sure. Victory #1, the feedback in the radio is gone.

I also changed out the gasket under the throttle body with this one. Holley 108-10

View attachment 362778

I trimmed about 1/8" off 1 side and the front of the inside opening so none of the gasket was hanging over the edge. Unfortunately it didn't eliminate the whistle noise. So that's a stalemate.

I'm just going to let it go for now. If I'm listening to music at my typical volume, I don't even notice the noise. If it really bothers me, I just have to move the throttle a few percent and it goes away.

Victory #2 came at the gas station. With the carb I was getting 11.25 mpg consistently on my typical daily commute. On a few trips with almost exclusively highway driving, it pushed into the 13's. Today I calculated 14.2mpg after my commute driving. That's solid 3mpg improvement! If that holds, I'll save $600/yr with gas at $2 a gallon.

That's a better payback than I expected. I thought I would see mpg improvement, but not enough to pay for the cost of the EFI in less than 5 years. I'm pretty happy about that.

On the whole, I'm getting to a happy place with the PF4. Unfortunately the whole business with the wire shorting on the exhaust causing it to randomly die, has delayed my satisfaction with the PF4. Almost like a traumatic experience, it's taking me a little while to get to the place where I can drive it and not be holding my breath waiting for it to die. The kicker is, that was all my fault. :doah:
Are you running the airfilter it came with that has the flow through lid? Mine whistled like hell until i got rid of that thing to bring down the air inlet Temps with a CAI.
 
Are you running the airfilter it came with that has the flow through lid? Mine whistled like hell until i got rid of that thing to bring down the air inlet Temps with a CAI.
Mine didn't come with the air cleaner deal; that was some limited time offer thing. What is a "CAI"?

One of the first tests I did was to drive it with out the air cleaner and it still made the noise.
 
Mine didn't come with the air cleaner deal; that was some limited time offer thing. What is a "CAI"?

One of the first tests I did was to drive it with out the air cleaner and it still made the noise.
Oh I guess I got lucky, CAI is Cold Air Intake, and yeah if you drive it without the air cleaner and it still made the noise then im no help here lol
 
Oh I guess I got lucky, CAI is Cold Air Intake, and yeah if you drive it without the air cleaner and it still made the noise then im no help here lol
Did you see a difference in the air inlet temp?
 
Did you see a difference in the air inlet temp?
Gigantic difference, with the old school air cleaner I wasn't ever seeing Temps under 100 even driving and sitting id see close to 140 or more. Now even before it got cold i was seeing no more than 10 degrees over ambient air temp.
 
Gigantic difference, with the old school air cleaner I wasn't ever seeing Temps under 100 even driving and sitting id see close to 140 or more. Now even before it got cold i was seeing no more than 10 degrees over ambient air temp.
Mine runs about 135° with the standard open element air cleaner. I was curious how much of a difference might be seen with something piping air in from outside the engine bay.
 
Had a stinky truck last few weeks . Turned on the tablet and found my IAC % was almost 30 . Re adjusted down to 8-9% .

Then road test i found my A/F RATIO live read stuck on 10.0 . Guys over on edelbrock forum said test o2 with video link on how to do . Then if no change its a o2 sensor dead .

I got one and need to do the test and swap in the next few days .

Screenshot_20201222-125441_Edelbrock.jpg

Screenshot_20201222-125128_Edelbrock.jpg
 
so you pull the o2 sensor . power up the vehicle engine OFF . watch tablet or phone with the pro flo 4 app . use a lighter for butane only to feed sensor tip . if no change sensor is dead .

mine was dead and now with the new one its acting much better .
 
so you pull the o2 sensor . power up the vehicle engine OFF . watch tablet or phone with the pro flo 4 app . use a lighter for butane only to feed sensor tip . if no change sensor is dead .

mine was dead and now with the new one its acting much better .

mine did that an now i have 2 spares under the seat

Might be worth trying the extended O2 bungs. I run one like this on the crew cab: https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Mot...ords=o2+sensor+extender&qid=1609124942&sr=8-4

After all the O2 sensor failures on here lately, I'm thinking maybe I should put one on the C10 too.
 
In other news, I got rid of the intake whistle thanks to this ugly piece.

2020-12-24 13.25.16.jpg

After @nmxhustla mentioned his going away after changing air cleaner setups, I thought it might be worth trying out my old TBI air cleaner. If it's quiet in the truck, as in no radio, and you listen hard you can barely detect the whistle. I'm thinking the enclosed air cleaner muffles the sound. I suppose it's possible it might also alter the air flow enough to change what's causing the whistle sound. Either way, it's not a worry anymore.

I think I still have the intake tube somewhere, so I might add that for a DIY cold air setup.
 
Yep and they where fast on the o2 but lagged ass on the map sensor that failed
Told em I can’t wait give me a part number and I’ll go get one, then a month later they sent me one
 
Its interesting that edelbrock is replacing the O2 sensors. When I called them it wasn't even a possibility. So I bought an off brand one. It had been working great until last week. This time it would get stuck reading 14.5 no matter what. An it usually happened after being driven for ~30 min or so. I added a cheap bung extension I got off ebay on Sunday and I haven't had an issue for the last 2 days.
 
I'm hoping that because I bought that Bosch O2 sensor after driving the one from the kit without it plugged in, I won't have the failing O2 sensor issue.

I've still been having the issue with it dying when the engine is cold and I put it in gear. I have figured out if I let it warm up to 110°F coolant temp, then I can put it in gear and it drives fine. Although this morning it was -1°F and I warmed the engine up to 110° and it almost died when I put it in gear, but it did catch itself and keep running.

I have decided I'm going to call the tech line to ask about it after the holidays. Another thing I've observed is when it's warming up in the morning it runs below the target AFR. The target is 13.5 and it runs 12.5 but increases as the coolant warms up. Actually the reason I chose 110° for when to try putting it in gear is because that's when the AFR is at about 13.1 by that point. I do know the Sniper lowers the AFR target at the colder temperatures, but the reason I know that is because the target AFR reflects it. The PF4 shows the target AFR to be the idle set point set in the advance tuning. So it makes me curious if it's supposed to be running a richer AFR and the target AFR just doesn't reflect it. The big kicker is that even tho the actual AFR is rich, the SFT is adding fuel.

The other thing minor issue is the IAC likes to do its own thing sometimes. I'll be stopped at a light and all of a sudden the IAC will start opening up, as high as 60% at times. Nothing else is reading outside of what it should be, just the IAC deciding to idle the engine higher for some reason. I keep thinking it's some glitch that will disappear with more learning. It doesn't happen with regular frequency just from time to time. About them time I think maybe it's done happening, it does it again.
 
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I tried your advice of lowering the IAC at idle to zero and that seemed to have worked for me, but I have not seen temps below 10 degrees since then and I almost always let it warm up to 150-165 before leaving in the mornings.

I have noticed the same thing with IAC doing weird things. Doesn't seem to have any rhyme or reason to it . . . .
 
I tried your advice of lowering the IAC at idle to zero and that seemed to have worked for me, but I have not seen temps below 10 degrees since then and I almost always let it warm up to 150-165 before leaving in the mornings.

I have noticed the same thing with IAC doing weird things. Doesn't seem to have any rhyme or reason to it . . . .
0% at idle in Park/Neutral. Then I'm at about 7% in drive on the brake.

I do remember the IAC on the Sniper in the crew cab used to do that. I remember wondering if something was wrong with it, but I don't notice it so much now. So I'm thinking it still might go away.

It's not horrible waiting for it to warm up; takes less than 10 minutes. And I've noticed the fuel mileage is much better if the engine is warmed up on the commute. I was thinking maybe I need to get a block heater. Especially when it seems like there are so many mornings I'm driving in temps less than 20°.
 

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