CK5
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Well for example, the GM crate engine is the ZZ6 EFI, and is the unit that the factory has the PF4 installed with. The map 5008 is designed w/ and for that exact application

I have a SP350/385 crate with a PF4 installed. It is part for part identical with the ZZ6 EFI, other than the tuning being locked out (per GM and Edelbrock)

Trying to find what exactly they preset as the parameters for that has felt like I’m asking for the logic basis of the programming, some dark secret proprietary list that shall not be spoken of

All I was hoping for was the list of stuff like @mrk5 has at the top of the forum for the original map 5008, since it is essentially what I should be using

I feel like I am missing something I didn't see, is there a reason we can't just select tune 5008 and look at those parameters on any unlocked ECU?
 
I feel like I am missing something I didn't see, is there a reason we can't just select tune 5008 and look at those parameters on any unlocked ECU?
Mostly just the point that they went through all the effort to dyno the thing, they should have more optimum settings than just the generic map. I’ve read a few places that the tune in the GM tablet is pretty conservative. Based just off what I’ve seen in the base maps, they are also pretty conservative
 
This is the specific wording from the installation instructions:

BATTERY CHARGER PRECAUTIONS - PLEASE ADHERE TO THE FOLLOWING GUIDELINES OR DAMAGE TO ECU MAY OCCUR.
• Be sure the battery has a full charge prior to attempting to start the vehicle.
• Never use the “engine start or jump start” setting on a charger to start the engine.
• Do not set the battery charger above 10 amps when charging.
• Never turn on the ECU or attempt to start the engine with the battery charger connected
• Make sure the charger is not charging over 18.0 volts.
• If the battery is completely discharged, it is best to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when charging.​
Not that I am promoting anyone helping strangers who may try to sue a good samaritan, I don't see how those instructions tell one not to use a PF4 equipped vehicle for starting another vehicle. Maybe I'm not reading things properly or not reading things into the wording of those instructions. It looks to me that one would want to use common sense and also not connect cables with the engine running. Connect and then start your engine, then charge the dead one. But CYA always takes priority.
 
i just said why you should not use jumper cables anymore @6872xtc in my post with the nissan info .

anymore with electronics just use a jumper pack or hope you dont have to pay out in the end . suck us good ol boys cant help like we use to but play it safe and use a jumper pack . :deal:
 
i just said why you should not use jumper cables anymore @6872xtc in my post with the nissan info .

anymore with electronics just use a jumper pack or hope you dont have to pay out in the end . suck us good ol boys cant help like we use to but play it safe and use a jumper pack . :deal:
Yes, I read what you posted. I also read what the instructions said as per the post that I quoted.
I don't give a rip about a Nissan, I am thinking about helping a buddy while out on the trail. Where do those instructions say that you CAN NOT jump start another vehicle with your PF4 truck?? They are talking about starting one WITH a Proflo system AND a dead battery.
:deal:
 
Not that I am promoting anyone helping strangers who may try to sue a good samaritan, I don't see how those instructions tell one not to use a PF4 equipped vehicle for starting another vehicle. Maybe I'm not reading things properly or not reading things into the wording of those instructions. It looks to me that one would want to use common sense and also not connect cables with the engine running. Connect and then start your engine, then charge the dead one. But CYA always takes priority.
I agree with your interpretation of the instructions, but it does make me nervous about jumping someone else. My battery has both side and top posts so I was thinking I could possibly play it safe by connecting the jumper cables to the posts not connected to the ECU. Although I suspect they are probably directly connected anyway.
 
Understand your points . . . But WHY chanch it . Get a good jump pack and be 99.9% safe in the end .
I don't have a problem reading the instructions and using my judgment. I am not going to go buy another tool because I am convinced that a Nissan is the same as anything that I own.
I am not trying to tell someone to be comfortable with my personal experience, I was discussing the text. Be mindful of whom I quoted.

@mrk5 got my point.

Let's get back to discussing the Edelbrock system, not Nissan induced paranoia.
 
Mostly just the point that they went through all the effort to dyno the thing, they should have more optimum settings than just the generic map. I’ve read a few places that the tune in the GM tablet is pretty conservative. Based just off what I’ve seen in the base maps, they are also pretty conservative

I would guess they are all conservative, they are setting it up for anyone to install into any vehicle with any fuel and still work correctly. Optimal output is not the priority there. The carb ZZ6 calls for 36 degrees of timing, so I would start there. That's at WOT at 4000, so I would choose that for the WOT setting, I would probably bring it in by 2500-3000.

As an example for "premade" tunes, when I used an MSD LS box to control timing on an LS2, I started out with the "LS2 HO" timing table, factory from MSD(i skipped the standard LS2 timing table). Then I made my own 3 custom timing tables to try. And my timing table produced 22 more lb-ft at 5000 RPM than even the "HO" timing table. And not just upper RPM, the entire curve was higher, even at 3500 it was still 16 more lb-ft.

I downloaded this owners manual below, and they are calling for 58 psi, so it can't be the 5008, maybe the 5009?

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/800/809/809-19368149.pdf

It's possible they could push the tune a little harder knowing that it is only being used for a specifically spec'd engine. With the other base tunes they don't really know what your compression is, cylinder head material, combustion chamber shape, piston shape, etc, so it will be conservative. They also only have a cam "range", so exact cylinder bleedoff and pressure can vary a lot more than just a different ZZ6.

Do you know someone who has a ZZ6 EFI that can fill in those specs for you, or is it hidden in their software?

I wish I could help, but they won't give me that type of information for GMPP licensed stuff.
 
I would guess they are all conservative, they are setting it up for anyone to install into any vehicle with any fuel and still work correctly. Optimal output is not the priority there. The carb ZZ6 calls for 36 degrees of timing, so I would start there. That's at WOT at 4000, so I would choose that for the WOT setting, I would probably bring it in by 2500-3000.

As an example for "premade" tunes, when I used an MSD LS box to control timing on an LS2, I started out with the "LS2 HO" timing table, factory from MSD(i skipped the standard LS2 timing table). Then I made my own 3 custom timing tables to try. And my timing table produced 22 more lb-ft at 5000 RPM than even the "HO" timing table. And not just upper RPM, the entire curve was higher, even at 3500 it was still 16 more lb-ft.

I downloaded this owners manual below, and they are calling for 58 psi, so it can't be the 5008, maybe the 5009?

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/800/809/809-19368149.pdf

It's possible they could push the tune a little harder knowing that it is only being used for a specifically spec'd engine. With the other base tunes they don't really know what your compression is, cylinder head material, combustion chamber shape, piston shape, etc, so it will be conservative. They also only have a cam "range", so exact cylinder bleedoff and pressure can vary a lot more than just a different ZZ6.

Do you know someone who has a ZZ6 EFI that can fill in those specs for you, or is it hidden in their software?

I wish I could help, but they won't give me that type of information for GMPP licensed stuff.
The claim on the 5008 map was stated by one of the Edelbrock employees deep inside one of the threads in their forum.

At this point it’s as much for sport as anything else, just to see if I can get the info, and specifically the timing stuff as you mentioned. Currently I’m on the 5006 map and have been fairly liberal with the timing. Haven’t heard it ping, also partially deaf
Run it
:dunno:
 
The claim on the 5008 map was stated by one of the Edelbrock employees deep inside one of the threads in their forum.

At this point it’s as much for sport as anything else, just to see if I can get the info, and specifically the timing stuff as you mentioned. Currently I’m on the 5006 map and have been fairly liberal with the timing. Haven’t heard it ping, also partially deaf
Run it
:dunno:

Here it says to use 36 total at 4000 RPM for the ZZ6 base engine, I wouldn't be using less than that if it was mine...

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance-parts/crate-engines/zz6-base

Also, here in the PF4 manual it says this on the bottom sentence of this paragraph, have you tried to see if you could download a specific cal for the ZZ6?

upload_2021-2-10_11-11-13.png

I would guess you would get better performance out of the 5008 cal, but not sure. If you average your intake and exhaust duration you are not in their "stock" window. I suppose just the intake duration is torward the upper limit of the "stock" window. But I wouldn't want a stock tune, I would want a mild performance tune to start with.
 
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Used it briefly and was a bit lack luster. Switched back to the 5006 as it matched the vacuum parameters better, and it ran smoother from the start (this was before I found out the 5008 was supposed to be the map base)
I did the software update and saved my old map and loaded the 5008. Nothing new to report yet
 
Here it says to use 36 total at 4000 RPM for the ZZ6 base engine, I wouldn't be using less than that if it was mine...

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance-parts/crate-engines/zz6-base

Also, here in the PF4 manual it says this on the bottom sentence of this paragraph, have you tried to see if you could download a specific cal for the ZZ6?

View attachment 368223
I think the timing was based of the chamber design and being a fast burn, but I’m at 40 total :D
 
Have you used a piston stop to find true TDC to see how far off your timing pointer is? 40 is not suprising, its getting up their, but still within the expected range from my POV, definitely at the upper limit though.
 
I'm curious what "other cals" are available in the software? My kids took off with my old phone I use to play with the Edelbrock software, can't find it.

The idle vacuum is probably a good parameter to go on, I don't blame you on that one.
 
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Yes the pointer is dead on

And that’s a good thing to mention to everyone installing, double check everything
 

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