The left side of the block should have power 100% of the time. Fed from the power block on the fire wall which is fed by the starter through the fusable link.
CK5
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Electrical geniuses needed!!!!
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
Ok so I think I figured out why the fuse block isn’t powered for the horn fuse. Looking at the diagram, that part of the box gets power from the orange wire in the harness of the headlight switch, and the headlight switch gets power from a big red wire that goes through the firewall at the top right terminal and tracing that wire on the engine bay side it goes straight to the number 2 spot on the alternator. I rewired the alternator when I did the rest of the engine bay and I assumed that number two spot was just an output that fed the box but now I think it’s wrong. Can someone walk me through the alternator wiring. I have the main post going straight to the battery.
The white wire (number 1) going to the gauge. And the 2 wire I already explained.
That’s wrong isn’t it?
The white wire (number 1) going to the gauge. And the 2 wire I already explained. That’s wrong isn’t it?Ok I think that’s what I realized, the wire I have going to the alternator should go to the junction block that gets fed from the starter. So I think I have the alternator wrong and I need to redo that number 2 red wire but I’m not sure where it goes yet. What does it do?
Ok did some research, i think I’ve got it, main wire from batter to post on alternator is correct. Number two wire goes from junction block fed by starter wire. Junction block also feeds the fuse box. Number 1 wire goes to gauge. Can anyone confirm?
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Yes this is correct. Your main wire to batt terminal on alt should have a fuse or fuse link near the battery to protect from shorts to ground. I am wondering if the junction block on the fire wall has power? that is normally where the fuse block get power.
I would like to slap that engineer around that came up with that one. From the battery, go back and down, then back up and over the engine and through the firewall to power everything. By that time, it's lost as least half a volt if not more. God forbid it has to go to the end of the vehicle, like on a long bed or a Suburban. Ugh.
Great thanks, I’ll fix that tonight and go from there. And yeah the junction block does have power. I guess the fuse box gets power from at least 2 wires.
Good news, the horn circuit works as it should now. I’ll have to make sure it’s still good when I put the steering column back together but for now it’s perfect. Also since the headlight switch has power now my lights seem to be working correctly as well as the brights switch which is great, running lights work too the only issue is the turn signals aren’t flashing. the hazards work but the turn relay only clicks on and doesn’t flash, so I’ll have to address that in the morning. Only big issue is the wipers now. Assuming my taillights work right.
Check your flasher for your turn signals, a quick way is to just swap the one for the hazards for the turn signal flasher. If the hazards work then the bulbs are good and the cam in the column only turns the turn signal off when the wheel turns. Only thing left is the flasher. Cheap fix.
I'll just throw this in here too. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30115.0
I should have mentioned I replaced all the relays, so new flashes for both hazards and turn signals. I picked up a new cancel cam too but right now the steering column is all apart because I replaced the turn switch. I’m just working the switch by hand right now. I’ll still swap the relays even though it’s new. I know the hazard one works so I’ll try that one and see if that fixes the problem. If not I’ll be tracing wires.
Alright I got the brake lights working, and the reverse lights. I was having an issue where the reverse lights were always on and I realized the ball in the switch that gets depressed was always being depressed even when not in reverse so I threw a little washer in there and it did the trick. I’m still having some weird funkiness with the turn signal. I’ll have to trace every wire tomorrow I guess. As for the wipers, I’ve traced all the wires and Im just straight up missing the connector for one side of the wiper delay module. I have the side from the switch that goes though the steering column and the module itself but no harness for the other side. 
the wires that would be there are cut and spliced into a toggle switch. I’m guessing the module went out and the po trashed that side of the harness after putting in the toggle. So I’ll go to a friends square body junkyard and try to pull another module and harness if I can find one. I also bought 2 door open light switches so I’ll have to wire those up but that’s easy. While I’m here I want to make sure all my wiring for the tailgate window motor is good plus make sure the switch on the dash works. I’ll also run power and ground for the radio.
the wires that would be there are cut and spliced into a toggle switch. I’m guessing the module went out and the po trashed that side of the harness after putting in the toggle. So I’ll go to a friends square body junkyard and try to pull another module and harness if I can find one. I also bought 2 door open light switches so I’ll have to wire those up but that’s easy. While I’m here I want to make sure all my wiring for the tailgate window motor is good plus make sure the switch on the dash works. I’ll also run power and ground for the radio.
Those modules loose a ground internally. and you get a phantom swipe from wipers at times. Normally at key on, and different bumps in the road. To bad the PO butchered it. You can just unplug the module and plug the 2 halves of the harness together, and have regular speeds 3 iirc.
I was wondering if that was possible. Worst case scenario I can just do that.
I went ahead and installed the horns, in doing so I did the headlight grounds and I jerry rigged the taillight grounds and the blinkers work fine. I guess my grounds weren’t perfect before and that’s why the flashers were acting screwy so that was easy. I picked up a “new” wiper delay module and harness tonight as well as a horn button and the bracket for the brake lights switch since I didn’t have either of those. 
I’m hoping I can just rewire the delay harness back in and it will all work perfectly.
I’m hoping I can just rewire the delay harness back in and it will all work perfectly.
I hope you get it figured out. Make sure all of the turn bulbs and sockets are good. If ANY of the bulbs (or grounds) are bad or loose, you will get solid light instead of flash.
I had no idea the piece with the heatsink was wiper delay. Mine is hanging loose in dash. Like Wes Harden mentioned, I get the occasional "phantom wipe". Thanks for the tip, Wes!
I had no idea the piece with the heatsink was wiper delay. Mine is hanging loose in dash. Like Wes Harden mentioned, I get the occasional "phantom wipe". Thanks for the tip, Wes!
So good and bad news, the wipers work with the stick on the column but only with the two low and high speeds. The delay part doesn’t seem to work. The wash function seems to work for my washers but I don’t think the “mist” part actually triggers the pump. But it’s much better than it was before so we’re moving in the right direction.
same results with both modules ?
Yeah I tried both, I’m considering getting a new switch and seeing if that helps but I feel like it’s got to be the module. Just seems odd that both would go out. I guess I can test the terminals on the harness from the switch and go from there. I’ll probably just work on the tailgate window wiring tonight.
both being bad doesn't surprise me at all. The things barely last through warranty. I don't believe your switch is bad, if you get high and low and wash, not sure why mist isn't working, possibly be cause the module controls that, i don't remember if that is so.
