When installing trim and emblems, if the sheet metal doesn't have the original holes, do you think it is better to drill the holes or just use some kind of adhesive?
CK5
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Emblems and Trim (Drill or Adhesive?)
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
I don't know of any modern car company that drills today. All for the same reason. Rust.
The impossibility of coating the edge of the hole with something to stop rust from forming without going to extremes, coupled with rust warranties made just about everybody switch to glue.
That, combined with modern glues, pretty much did away with holes several years ago.
However, if your emblem came designed to be mounted with holes, You can still do it.
Just make sure to coat the edges of the holes with some kind of sealer, and seal around the emblem so air and moisture can't get to the metal.
Of course, the best sealer is glue..........
The impossibility of coating the edge of the hole with something to stop rust from forming without going to extremes, coupled with rust warranties made just about everybody switch to glue.
That, combined with modern glues, pretty much did away with holes several years ago.
However, if your emblem came designed to be mounted with holes, You can still do it.
Just make sure to coat the edges of the holes with some kind of sealer, and seal around the emblem so air and moisture can't get to the metal.
Of course, the best sealer is glue..........
The Cheyenne emblems I have have a post broken off....I was debating grinding the other one off and using adhesive, or buy a set on eBay that has both posts...
If adhesive holds good, I will go that route.
The only problem with an older emblem, is that it might not have the surface area necessary for glue to work well.
I'm sure that there was some redesigning of emblems when they decided to switch.
If you decide to go glue, see if you can find a body shop or a dealership that will show you how its done, and maybe sell you the glue.
The techniques have been refined over the years now, and you might as well not repeat any of their mistakes.
I'm sure all the wax and any other coating needs to be stripped off the paint first.
I'm sure that there was some redesigning of emblems when they decided to switch.
If you decide to go glue, see if you can find a body shop or a dealership that will show you how its done, and maybe sell you the glue.
The techniques have been refined over the years now, and you might as well not repeat any of their mistakes.
I'm sure all the wax and any other coating needs to be stripped off the paint first.
I'd use that 3M automotive adhesive tape and a cover the whole back side because those emblems are heavy. Now like the all plastic ones of today.
drill bottom tap the hole and bolt possible.
old cast metel badges didnt have flat back for lots of grip for 3m sticky tape thay use now.
old cast metel badges didnt have flat back for lots of grip for 3m sticky tape thay use now.
I unboxed my emblems again and I was wrong...they do have their posts...won them off eBay and thought that they didn't have the posts...
would a rubber grommet help prevent rust?
What is missing is a thick black gasket material as you can see by looking at the rear view:
would a rubber grommet help prevent rust?
What is missing is a thick black gasket material as you can see by looking at the rear view:
not to hyjack, but how do you take those (or more specifically the Silverado emblems) off the back fenders?
??
??
I believe they just have speed nuts on them unless that gasket on the back was also an adhesive...
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Believe it or not, I have used high temp black RTV in the past to secure a body emblem, it never came off ever again as long as I owned it.. just make sure both mating surfaces are clean 
blueblazes44
1/2 ton status
I have had success with the 5 min. epoxy on trim and emblems.
those emblems should have what i refer to as black dum-dum behind it... it's the same stuff they used to install windshields with back in the day prior to windshield urethane... it's like black playdo, comes in a roll with peelback film on one side... it's like an inch wide and 3/16th's thick... just can't thibnk of the brandname at the moment..
the posts should either be speednutted, or barrelclipped for attachment, depending on what shape the post is...... sorry, can't seem to find a pic of a barrel clip..
the posts should either be speednutted, or barrelclipped for attachment, depending on what shape the post is...... sorry, can't seem to find a pic of a barrel clip..
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
That 3M adhesive foam tape is some nasty stuff though, I use it to stick on the satellite radio antennas and other things in the past, a few times I have had to remove or relocate them and it was a PAIN to get it off without almost breaking something.
"nasty" meaning REALLY sticky good stuff. 
"nasty" meaning REALLY sticky
good stuff.
the white with white/green peel off? good stuff.. 
we lived by that stuff thru the 80's at the bodyshop for all the heavy black door moldings... every damn vehicle had em in those days.. 
we lived by that stuff thru the 80's at the bodyshop for all the heavy black door moldings... every damn vehicle had em in those days..
Actually, I think I found it:
the norton stuff is the windshield dumdum... it might be like the 3m stuff.. we used to get it in long rolls like the dumdum roll..
maybe this?
nah, thats the same as the norton above... i bet that 3m stripcaulk is the same as what i'm talking about.. basically like the dumdum, but flat... obviously this is in addition to mechanical fastening...
barrelclips can be had at any autobody supply place, as can speednuts and the backing tapes.. thats what they do...
barrelclips can be had at any autobody supply place, as can speednuts and the backing tapes.. thats what they do...
