CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
engine crossmember solutions for crossover steering?
- Thread starter MJB774X
- Start date
Tna crossmember is sweet, http://www.totallynakedauto.com/mobile/category.aspx?id=1822
This is his earlier design, the newer ones are even better. Works great with my ord crossover.
This is his earlier design, the newer ones are even better. Works great with my ord crossover.
seen that and ord's..... I was kind of looking for some more home brew options, I plan to fab my own, I was thinking about incorporating a factory tranny cross member, or cutting it out and just running some bracing up the the cross member just in front of that one
Yah I thought of making my own. But I couldn't argue with the price and the bolt on and finish the rest of my suspension instead of a Saturday of cutting, welding, and drilling holes.
Plus it looks super cool when I have to get under the blazer lol.
Plus it looks super cool when I have to get under the blazer lol.
You must have a drop pitman? Mine is the high clearance that damn near hits the frame. No way the stock crossmember would have worked
good point..... funny about the tna guy....I was drawing up some brackets on cad like the ones I built ( rear shackle flip) to possibly burn out and start selling, this last weekend I was welding up the draglink for my cross over and that's when I discovered that cross member was going to have to go, so I started searching for options and came across tna, then looking at his other stuff I see that he makes brackets like the ones I made a few years ago lol
I built my own. Plated the factory engine mount brackets and welded them to the frame. Then built the cross member out of hitch square tubing welded in forever. Way over kill. But yhe panhard bar bracket was bending the frame. Not any longer.
No pictures though.
No pictures though.
Id have to see that, cause unless you have like a 10" lift I don't see how it couldn't hit, I have the drop pitman arm, and I was scoping it out, even if I had the ord bent draglink and I think it would hit. what steering arm are you running? I got nwf
I also kept the factory crossmember with ORD X-over and dropped arm. Looks to have plenty of clearance. But it's still under construction, so I can't tell you for sure. Don't have any pics at the appropriate angle, but here's what it looks like.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
I also have ord draglink and dropped pitman, it had no interference with my factory crossmember, id take a pic but I installed my ord crossmember and motor mounts about two weeks ago.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Actually I lied, I did have a pic that I took for a before and after. Now if you look in the pic I appears that there may have been some contact on the passenger side because you can see the two clean spots on the cross member. I'm running like 4-5 spring 64" leafs on the front so it sits up pretty good and flexes like crazy.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I have a stock crossmember, a modified TJ/YJ pitman arm from WFO(with ~1.5" of drop iirc), home made drag link, and 6" steering arm.
The axle is moved 2" forward with 56" springs (~5" lift).
And I only have a slight rub on the driver side.
The axle is moved 2" forward with 56" springs (~5" lift).
And I only have a slight rub on the driver side.
ORD is telling me it will work with the stock crossmember. What they don't say on the website is that their "tie rod ends" they sell for use as drag link ends are a custom part. It has the high operating angle of a DLE (~30*) but in a TRE package and with the shortest body possible. This allows the drag link bend to be very close to the pitman arm and maximizes clearance.
My thought is that minor interference can be solved with a little grinding - maybe a little reinforcing if much has to be removed. Let's face it - removing factory rivets sucks.
My thought is that minor interference can be solved with a little grinding - maybe a little reinforcing if much has to be removed. Let's face it - removing factory rivets sucks.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
That's true.
If I used their short DLE's I probably wouldn't rub the cross member at all.
I considered running them at first, but didn't want to use a custom piece for a wear item like a DLE...
I had the same concern, but you could buy several DLEs over time for the price of a new crossmember. For some reason, they use 4 of the custom TREs in their kits - probably just to inventory less parts. IMO you only need one of these at the pitman arm. At the steering arm any regular DLE would be fine. Spending more money for high angle joints for the tie rod just seems silly since a solid axle will hardly put any angle on them. I suppose for carrying spare parts their setup would require just 2, while the setup I just proposed would be 4.
You must have a drop pitman? Mine is the high clearance that damn near hits the frame. No way the stock crossmember would have worked
