What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

engine starting issues after rebuilt

blazer74 said:
Check your fan, original is a clutch fan. Try and spin it by hand, should only spin less than a turn or so. If it spins freely it's worn out. Double check your coolant level. Don't open the cap hot.
Your upper hose should get hard and hot when the thermostat opens, no pun intended.

Be careful around a running engine!
Click to expand...

the fan does turn freely ! but it always did, i thought it was normal... you think that would get the engine to overheat ?
concerning the coolant level, it was full by looking at the radiator fill up hole before starting the engine. Haven't opened it since, would that be enough ? i suspect some air in the cooling system... how can I be sure if it's 100% coolant, and no air in the circuit ?
 
it should have burped when the therm opened.. top it off.. you should always be waiting with a gallon or 2 for when that happens when ya fire one off...

2 to 3 g's is a bit much for breakin rpm's IMO.... I generally vary them from about 1600 to 2200 rpm's... stopping during break-in isn't a huge deal..
 
ryoken said:
it should have burped when the therm opened.. top it off.. you should always be waiting with a gallon or 2 for when that happens when ya fire one off...

2 to 3 g's is a bit much for breakin rpm's IMO.... I generally vary them from about 1600 to 2200 rpm's... stopping during break-in isn't a huge deal..
Click to expand...

yeah I think I'll go between 2000 and 2500 for the next start up (I only did 10 minutes so far, i have 10 more left) How can you hear a burp when the engine is running high rpm like this ?? is it a big burp ??
 
How hot is "hot"? Did you run it for a few minutes with the radiator cap off to "burp" the air out of the system?
 
you don't hear it.. you should have fired the motor with the rad cap off.. full.. when it "burb's" the therm opens and the level will go way down.. it's just a term for getting the air out of the system... pour another gal, etc in to top it off... but it should already be down after your first run up to temp..
 
I hate cam break in time. I have yet to be able to hit the key and keep it between 1500-2500 for 20 minutes. I always try to manually burp air out of the upper hose and get the coolant system as full as possible that way...then cross my fingers there is enough coolant in there to control temps. Running the engine at 1500-2000 with the rad cap off always nets me a coolant geyser. Usually by the time break in is done temps are 220ish.

Roller cams FTMFW.
 
tRustyK5 said:
I hate cam break in time. I have yet to be able to hit the key and keep it between 1500-2500 for 20 minutes. I always try to manually burp air out of the upper hose and get the coolant system as full as possible that way...then cross my fingers there is enough coolant in there to control temps. Running the engine at 1500-2000 with the rad cap off always nets me a coolant geyser. Usually by the time break in is done temps are 220ish.

Roller cams FTMFW.
Click to expand...

yup... no more flat tappet cam for me, too stressfull, even after a success...
 
ryoken said:
you don't hear it.. you should have fired the motor with the rad cap off.. full.. when it "burb's" the therm opens and the level will go way down.. it's just a term for getting the air out of the system... pour another gal, etc in to top it off... but it should already be down after your first run up to temp..
Click to expand...

coolant is still the full... you think the thermostat is dead ? i swear i tested it in boiling water right before i installed it. And it did open...
 
okay i have one question : How would I know if the break in failed ? would i hear noisy lifters ? I started it 10 minutes ago, this time radiator cap off, and there was a pretty big back fire through the air filter, and i run the truck for 8 minutes, and i'm not sure, but i felt like there was a slight misfiring... it didn't sound as smooth as the first time, but no noisy lifters or anything, no "tick tick tick"
 
yup... you could have one a bit too tight.... is it popping out the exhaust, or carb?
 
ryoken said:
yup... you could have one a bit too tight.... is it popping out the exhaust, or carb?
Click to expand...

well there was a big pop from the intake/car/air filter at the start, and then it was misfiring from the exhaust. I just hope i didn't wipe an intake lobe, which would make an intake valve not opening correctly, so not firing ?
 
if you wiped an intake lobe, the cylinder will be dead.... popping out the carb means it's firing with the intake valve opened.... either improperly timed, or the valve is too tight... super common for a first time valve set up to make them too tight..
 
ryoken said:
if you wiped an intake lobe, the cylinder will be dead.... popping out the carb means it's firing with the intake valve opened.... either improperly timed, or the valve is too tight... super common for a first time valve set up to make them too tight..
Click to expand...

How would a dead cylinder sound like then ?

I mean, i did have a misfire once in the past, and my truck literally sounded like a Harley Davidson. This time was not as bad, was very slight misfire sound.
But okay i'll check them tomorrow. I followed this method, because of all methods I've found, this one made more sense to me :

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valve-adjustment-procedure.html

Shall I put it to 12 degrees BTDC instead of 16 ? I think i run the new cam for about 17 to 18 minutes now, so break in is pretty much done... i'll also check all the rocker arms tomorrow, engine running, to see if they all close and open all the way.
 
16 is a lot of initial timing. I'd back off to 10 and go from there.
You may have a timing issue causing the popping thru the carb and the overheating, go back and check timing and firing order at least for the sake of doing it. Check your plugs if you feel inclined.
You need to change the oil now anyways after break in a so check for metallic looking particles in the oil and mag drain plug.
Put more additive in also.
Reset your valves as was mentioned and take a good look spring movement like you mentioned
 
blazer74 said:
16 is a lot of initial timing. I'd back off to 10 and go from there.
You may have a timing issue causing the popping thru the carb and the overheating, go back and check timing and firing order at least for the sake of doing it. Check your plugs if you feel inclined.
You need to change the oil now anyways after break in a so check for metallic looking particles in the oil and mag drain plug.
Put more additive in also.
Reset your valves as was mentioned and take a good look spring movement like you mentioned
Click to expand...

yeah, i was thinking, since i used soft springs for the break in, i still need to install the stiffer springs that came with the camshaft, so i still need to remove the heads to install them, with the stems, retainers etc... which mean, redoing the timing, start with 10 like you said, since i will have to remove the intake, change oil, flushing coolant, i'll recheck the thermostat, and i was also thinking of puting some roller rockers, so i will also have to redo the valve adjustment...

Should I put some break in oil again (with additive), for the next 50 miles ? or regular oil would be better ? I did check on google, and I've never found a convincing answer...
 
Springs can be changed without removing the heads. Thats a lot of unnecessary work unless there's some reason I don't know.

Something else that just popped in to my mind was did you preoil before stabbing the distributor?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom